Treefer32
Valuable Member
So, I figured out that I cannot evidently read my phosphate test, or my Red Sea Pro Phosphate test sucks.. either way, I thought my phosphate levels were slightly elevated at somewhere between .12 and .16. on The Red Sea Pro test...
My ICP Test results reveal a much different picture at 8 times what they should be. And Phosphorous?
340 Gallon Display and 75 gallon sump:
Current PO4 / NO3 removal methods:
1. Algae turf scrubber (softball sized ball of hair algae every 6-7 days).
2. 15-20 gallon water changes 2-3 times a week.
3. A large Xenia farm
Before I do a knee jerk response and start trying to remove phosphates with a massive GFO or Phosgard tool. I'm thinking of doing something simpler:
1. Go down to half sheet of Nori a day instead of full sheet.
2. Feed 1 oz of frozen home made food instead of 2-3 ounces. (16 fish, with 3 large tanks that eat like elephants and a dragon Wrasse that eats a whole ounce of food by himself - swallows it whole).
3. Massive water change - Once a week 60 gallon water change, with two 15 gallon changes throughout the week for the next 1-2 months, that would change out all the water in 4-6 weeks.
4. Need a reliable way to test for phosphorous and phosphates?
5. Maintenance of PO4? How do I populate bacteria eating phosphates in massive numbers?
I've got 16 fish right now, I was thinking a well stocked 340 gallon tank would be around 30-40 fish. So, I'm about halfway where I want to be and massive phosphates? What other relatively inexpensive and non mechanical ways would there be to get to lower phosphates. Just FYI, I have no algae problems in the display other than on the glass. I have a cyano problem at times, but it's fairly limited. I've taken to dosing MicroBacter7 daily to try to seed new bacteria. Looking for other similar options. This has to be why my corals are suffering. Not dying, but not growing much either.
My ICP Test results reveal a much different picture at 8 times what they should be. And Phosphorous?
340 Gallon Display and 75 gallon sump:
Current PO4 / NO3 removal methods:
1. Algae turf scrubber (softball sized ball of hair algae every 6-7 days).
2. 15-20 gallon water changes 2-3 times a week.
3. A large Xenia farm
Before I do a knee jerk response and start trying to remove phosphates with a massive GFO or Phosgard tool. I'm thinking of doing something simpler:
1. Go down to half sheet of Nori a day instead of full sheet.
2. Feed 1 oz of frozen home made food instead of 2-3 ounces. (16 fish, with 3 large tanks that eat like elephants and a dragon Wrasse that eats a whole ounce of food by himself - swallows it whole).
3. Massive water change - Once a week 60 gallon water change, with two 15 gallon changes throughout the week for the next 1-2 months, that would change out all the water in 4-6 weeks.
4. Need a reliable way to test for phosphorous and phosphates?
5. Maintenance of PO4? How do I populate bacteria eating phosphates in massive numbers?
I've got 16 fish right now, I was thinking a well stocked 340 gallon tank would be around 30-40 fish. So, I'm about halfway where I want to be and massive phosphates? What other relatively inexpensive and non mechanical ways would there be to get to lower phosphates. Just FYI, I have no algae problems in the display other than on the glass. I have a cyano problem at times, but it's fairly limited. I've taken to dosing MicroBacter7 daily to try to seed new bacteria. Looking for other similar options. This has to be why my corals are suffering. Not dying, but not growing much either.
