Information overload: trying to devise a water chemistry strategy for a mixed reef

[Thehogfather]

Hey all, so I've been consuming a lot of information on reef building and am trying to devise a strategy for getting my first reef tank up and running. I am starting with a reefer 350 which is sort of the largest tank I can afford/fit in my apartment. I think I am on my way to a pretty solid initial setup at least as far as filtration/nutrient export is concerned, but I'm overwhelmed by the number of strategies people take to maintain their water chemistry and don't really know how to approach that question for my system. For one thing I'm still trying to figure out what my target levels should be for an SPS/LPS dominant mixed reef tank, but I'm also just not sure the best way of maintaining established levels. I'm pretty sure I'm leaning towards a high light and high flow environment with as low a nutrient profile as possible. But what about dosing for calcium and alkalinity? there are so many options from systems like Triton and Aquaforest, then theres things like dosing with kalcwasser. I realize theres a lot of right answers to this question, but as a beginner I'm wondering if there's a simple way I can approach this while I'm still wrapping my head around all of the variables. Keeping in mind that a lot of the most successful reef keepers emphasize the importance of system stability how can I approach this from the outset so I'm not meddling too much and stressing out my corals while I get things tweaked?

As a side note I haven't gotten any of my equipment yet, but I should be getting my first shipments Friday and Monday. I plan on documenting my build and learning process as I get things rolling.

Cheers,
Austin

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Just do water changes.
Feed the fish healthfully.
Don’t chase numbers.
You don’t do that for the lawn and your trees.

Stability. Don’t change things. If you do. Do it slow.
Food amount is number one.
Ie If nutrients creep up and effect the corals (you’ll se it ) increase water changes. If they get low , don’t do water changes. (Don’t chase the number on the test)

Avoid stuff in bottles.

Go slow.

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

Hey all, so I've been consuming a lot of information on reef building and am trying to devise a strategy for getting my first reef tank up and running. I am starting with a reefer 350 which is sort of the largest tank I can afford/fit in my apartment. I think I am on my way to a pretty solid initial setup at least as far as filtration/nutrient export is concerned, but I'm overwhelmed by the number of strategies people take to maintain their water chemistry and don't really know how to approach that question for my system. For one thing I'm still trying to figure out what my target levels should be for an SPS/LPS dominant mixed reef tank, but I'm also just not sure the best way of maintaining established levels. I'm pretty sure I'm leaning towards a high light and high flow environment with as low a nutrient profile as possible. But what about dosing for calcium and alkalinity? there are so many options from systems like Triton and Aquaforest, then theres things like dosing with kalcwasser. I realize theres a lot of right answers to this question, but as a beginner I'm wondering if there's a simple way I can approach this while I'm still wrapping my head around all of the variables. Keeping in mind that a lot of the most successful reef keepers emphasize the importance of system stability how can I approach this from the outset so I'm not meddling too much and stressing out my corals while I get things tweaked?

As a side note I haven't gotten any of my equipment yet, but I should be getting my first shipments Friday and Monday. I plan on documenting my build and learning process as I get things rolling.

Cheers,
Austin

Patience of Job, one key to success. Also if not using live rock. I'd let water age 5-6mo. Before corals. That way any issues of algae you can work on.

 

[Thehogfather]

Thanks for the pointers. It's pretty reassuring that it's more about patience than chasing numbers. As a newbie it gets overwhelming to see all these complicated systems and feel like if I'm not tracking numbers and dosing all the right additives I'm not going to have a nice tank. Sounds like starting slow with disciplined water changes is the best place to start. I'm not planning on putting any corals in the tank for a while as I'm starting with dry rock, I'll be happy to see a couple fish swimming around in there after the first month or two, and it'll give me more time to make sure I'm set up the way I want to be when I finally start adding corals and such. Any thoughts on when it's ok to add the first fish? I'm planning on getting things rolling with a probiotic starter and I've seen people add a fish or two anywhere from a few days to a month into the cycle. Obviously I'd be excited to add a fish earlier, but I'm patient if it really makes more sense to let the tank cycle longer before bringing fish into the mix.

 

[PatW]

Testing.

Find a set of tests that you are comfortable with.

You will need to track your nutrient levels. For nitrates, I use Red Sea Pro which is good to .25 ppm.

For phosphates, only Hanna ULR is really sensitive enough.

You will need nutrient export methods: water changes, skimmer, refugium or all three.

When your corals start growing, you will need to test alkalinity daily. Test for this are Salifert, Red Sea and Hanna.

You will also need to test Calcium and Red Sea or Salifert are fine.

You will also need to monitor magnesium. I use Salifert. I can never get consistent results with Red Sea. Water changes seem to maintain magnesium.

To maintain alk and Ca, I use two part. I buy the dry form from Bulk Reef Supply and mix it myself. As long as you don’t get large daily consumption, you can hand dose.

For SPS corals, you need bright lights and a strong blue spectrum and high flow. I stick my LPS corals near the bottom of the tank and they do well there.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Thanks for the pointers. It's pretty reassuring that it's more about patience than chasing numbers. As a newbie it gets overwhelming to see all these complicated systems and feel like if I'm not tracking numbers and dosing all the right additives I'm not going to have a nice tank. Sounds like starting slow with disciplined water changes is the best place to start. I'm not planning on putting any corals in the tank for a while as I'm starting with dry rock, I'll be happy to see a couple fish swimming around in there after the first month or two, and it'll give me more time to make sure I'm set up the way I want to be when I finally start adding corals and such. Any thoughts on when it's ok to add the first fish? I'm planning on getting things rolling with a probiotic starter and I've seen people add a fish or two anywhere from a few days to a month into the cycle. Obviously I'd be excited to add a fish earlier, but I'm patient if it really makes more sense to let the tank cycle longer before bringing fish into the mix.

Wait a month.
Simple.

 

[O'l Salty]

Thanks for the pointers. It's pretty reassuring that it's more about patience than chasing numbers. As a newbie it gets overwhelming to see all these complicated systems and feel like if I'm not tracking numbers and dosing all the right additives I'm not going to have a nice tank. Sounds like starting slow with disciplined water changes is the best place to start. I'm not planning on putting any corals in the tank for a while as I'm starting with dry rock, I'll be happy to see a couple fish swimming around in there after the first month or two, and it'll give me more time to make sure I'm set up the way I want to be when I finally start adding corals and such. Any thoughts on when it's ok to add the first fish? I'm planning on getting things rolling with a probiotic starter and I've seen people add a fish or two anywhere from a few days to a month into the cycle. Obviously I'd be excited to add a fish earlier, but I'm patient if it really makes more sense to let the tank cycle longer before bringing fish into the mix.

I always tell myself, keep it simple stupid. I hardly ever test my water but I am religious about doing water changes. I have found stability to be much more important than most anything. I like to cycle a tank with liquid ammonia and do watch parameters closely. You will definitely need a Hannah ULR phosphate checker.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Ten years , api.