Lamotte, Red Sea, Salifert ALK Tests Evaluated
- Thread starter David S
- Start date
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OK, so I'm going to toss another hobbyist Alkalinity Test kit into the mix, albeit on a very limited basis (a single test).
I mentioned to a friend, at the LFS, about my recent evaluations and he was very interested in comparing the Salifert result with his test kit of choice, which is Elos.
So this morning, prior to visiting the LFS I tested my tank water using Salifert and placed an additional 5ml of tank water into a vial, prior to visiting the store.
I then gave him the water sample to test with the Elos kit.
A few things...
First, I did not tell him, beforehand, the result I got with the Salifert kit, which was approximately 7.85 (Lavenderish) to 8 DKH (pinkish color).
Also, the Elos result is determined by adding a color changing liquid to the sample. Each drop added is the equivalent of 0.5 DKH. Final result is obtained when the color of the sample turns orange.
He initially added 15 drops, which is the equivalent of 7.5 DKH. At this stage the color had a very slight trace of orange, but was predominately green.
It was at this point that I informed him of the Salifert result.
When the next drop was added the sample turned noticeably orange, which equates to 8 DKH.
So take this with a grain of reef salt but it might suggest that the Elos kit is a keeper.
I mentioned to a friend, at the LFS, about my recent evaluations and he was very interested in comparing the Salifert result with his test kit of choice, which is Elos.
So this morning, prior to visiting the LFS I tested my tank water using Salifert and placed an additional 5ml of tank water into a vial, prior to visiting the store.
I then gave him the water sample to test with the Elos kit.
A few things...
First, I did not tell him, beforehand, the result I got with the Salifert kit, which was approximately 7.85 (Lavenderish) to 8 DKH (pinkish color).
Also, the Elos result is determined by adding a color changing liquid to the sample. Each drop added is the equivalent of 0.5 DKH. Final result is obtained when the color of the sample turns orange.
He initially added 15 drops, which is the equivalent of 7.5 DKH. At this stage the color had a very slight trace of orange, but was predominately green.
It was at this point that I informed him of the Salifert result.
When the next drop was added the sample turned noticeably orange, which equates to 8 DKH.
So take this with a grain of reef salt but it might suggest that the Elos kit is a keeper.
Hi All,
I bought a big Salifert Kit with 8 tests (PH, Ammonia, Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphate, ALK, Nitrate, Nitrite). Have a Nuvo 40 on the way, and rock curing. Wanted to get a head start on testing and learning Salifert Kits (used to use API).
Unfortunately, I'm having trouble with the Calcium / Magnesium kits. It always tests way higher than expected. I mean, WAY higher. I usually have to use 1.5 ML of the reagent before the color changes. I've watched videos online, read the instructions and did the test on Red Sea Coral Pro & Instant Ocean Reef Flakes water as well as some water I am using to cure rock. I'm not sure what to do, is it a bad kit? How do I find out?
This being said it worries me that perhaps my other tests are not accurate either =(
PH: 8.0
Ammonia: .50 (cycling)
Calcium: 700+ (Both Red Sea & Reef Crys)
Magnesium: 1700+ (Both Red Sea & Reef Crys)
Phosphate: .01 (This is a test from my curing water)
ALK : 7.7 (IO Reef Crys) 10.5 (RedSea CoralPro)
I bought a big Salifert Kit with 8 tests (PH, Ammonia, Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphate, ALK, Nitrate, Nitrite). Have a Nuvo 40 on the way, and rock curing. Wanted to get a head start on testing and learning Salifert Kits (used to use API).
Unfortunately, I'm having trouble with the Calcium / Magnesium kits. It always tests way higher than expected. I mean, WAY higher. I usually have to use 1.5 ML of the reagent before the color changes. I've watched videos online, read the instructions and did the test on Red Sea Coral Pro & Instant Ocean Reef Flakes water as well as some water I am using to cure rock. I'm not sure what to do, is it a bad kit? How do I find out?
This being said it worries me that perhaps my other tests are not accurate either =(
PH: 8.0
Ammonia: .50 (cycling)
Calcium: 700+ (Both Red Sea & Reef Crys)
Magnesium: 1700+ (Both Red Sea & Reef Crys)
Phosphate: .01 (This is a test from my curing water)
ALK : 7.7 (IO Reef Crys) 10.5 (RedSea CoralPro)
So if I understand this correctly your CA and MG tests are done with fresh Reef Crystals and Red Sea salt and not the cycling water.
If that's the case, is it possible you didn't mix the entire batch of fresh salt?
If you only make fresh sea water using a portion of your total salt it's possible you could have a hot spot for your CA & MG, although I must admit I find it odd that both salts are testing so high for CA & MG.
FWIW my experience with Salifert's CA test, which I use regularly, has shown on multiple occasions to give results about 20 PPM lower than ICP.
Salifert's MG tests, which I no longer use, were typically 100+PPM lower than ICP.
I find Red Sea's MG test a bit closer to ICP
I purchased pre-made water from my LFS (RS Coral Pro & IO Reef Crystals). I wanted to run tests on the water to practice & help me determine which water to go with (No RODI system currently in home). I didn't pre-mix anything myself which is why i think it's incredibly strange to be getting these results for BOTH types of Salt. Also, I have a bunch of rock that has been curing for a few weeks and I did a 3rd and FINAL test on that water, and got the same crazy high results.
Not sure what I'm doing wrong. The water goes from pink to purple as i add reagent, and stay's at purple until I finally put in 1.5 ML or so till it goes blue. Water-line is at .8 and plunger is at exactly 1.0. (I have the new kits). I mix and drop simultaneously, then slow down close to the end.
Not sure what I'm doing wrong. The water goes from pink to purple as i add reagent, and stay's at purple until I finally put in 1.5 ML or so till it goes blue. Water-line is at .8 and plunger is at exactly 1.0. (I have the new kits). I mix and drop simultaneously, then slow down close to the end.
So if your using 1.5 ml of Titrant that's the equivalent of 750 PPM of CA which is super high, although if you have extremely high MG that might explain the high CA concentration.
Clearly, there is either something funny with the test kits or the water you received.
Why don't you try testing the water of a couple of tanks at your LFS and see what you come up with.
BTW when you add reagent to the syringe, ideally when the plunger is at the 1ml point there should be .13 - .15ml of air, not .20. So you may need to prime the plunger a few times.
Hope this helps and let me know what happens.
I went to LFS and tested both Magnesium and Calcium there and it came back as 550 and 1550 on Reef Crystal freshly made water. Owner said its pretty high for both. It's a mystery. Also the plunger has .20 of air every single time I draw, no matter what, in any kit (Calcium, ALK, MG). I am drawing with the pink cap on. If i draw with the cap off, then there is .05 ml of air. The syringe has a small tip, which i think would account for .05ml.
I think I might just return this kit.. This is so strange. I heard many good things about Salifert.
-Stan
I think I might just return this kit.. This is so strange. I heard many good things about Salifert.
-Stan
1. I'm not sure why you have so much air when you draw in the Titrant. I never go more than .14ml.
I usually prime several times beyond the 1ml point and then back where the barrel is squarely on the 1ml line.
2. I still say you should try the kit on aged tank water and see those results before you reach any definite conclusions.
You mentioned that you used API previously, do you still have any to test with.
What results does your LFS get using their own test kits?
The salinity is 1.026, Instant Ocean Reef Crystals is what i tested yesterday. I tried even without the pink tips to experiment. I got the water line to 1.0ml so i know exactly how much i have. still took 1.3 ML.
They didn't test the water when i was in the LFS, but the owner said its too high for Reef Crystals and calcium is usually around 400 and magnesium is high too from the test. Unfortunately All my old api tests are over 5 years old (last time I had a tank up). So i ended up tossing it a few weeks ago.
-Stan
They didn't test the water when i was in the LFS, but the owner said its too high for Reef Crystals and calcium is usually around 400 and magnesium is high too from the test. Unfortunately All my old api tests are over 5 years old (last time I had a tank up). So i ended up tossing it a few weeks ago.
-Stan
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