Last Call Before Tearing Down Tank

Alfrareef

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Yeah, I keep a well stocked cleanup crew. Not only do they help clean but I like having critters around the tank. I'd like to ask here as I'm wondering how much of an effect the sump has on the display. I am leaving my lights on over the sump now and added an extra Mag 9 I had around to the sump to increase flow. I also added a canister filter and have been stirring up the sump and filtering out all the gunk from the dying Cyano. Every time I clean the sponges they are like rusty water. Do you feel oxygen exchange and light in the sump will help my cause?

I would shutdown the sump light, and reduce the lights time on top of the tank to about 4 hours. As per the rest keep on vacuum the sand.
 

SaracensRugby

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Do you have solid growth of your macro (if you have it) in your sump? I need to dial back my light in my sump, in an effort to let nitrates rise.

I followed one of the BRS builds where they did no water changes, and they had to really dial back their refugium lighting period, and potentially start dosing nitrates. I think they would leave the refugium light off for a day or two at a time. I have a Triton style sump (no filter socks, huge refugium) and need to make that change to my lighting schedule. My refugium could be working a little too well. If so I partly blame my kessil h180 in there...
 

Crustaceon

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This is pretty much the reason why I run an algae turf scrubber. It has a self-regulating factor to it where the algae will grow as much as it can provided enough nutrients are present. When those levels drop below what the algae can handle, some of that algae dies and releases trapped nitrates and phosphates, creating a cycle of growth and death and regrowth around a pretty much unchanging nitrate and phosphate level. For my system, it’s been around 5ppm nitrates and .03 phosphates. The trick is starting the scrubber at lower nutrient levels vs. more often starting one because nutrients are out of control. It’s an absolutely fantastic way to keep low nutrients without stripping too much out and I use it in conjunction with a very undersized skimmer. TBH I’ve ran the system with just the ATS for around five months without issue. I’ll bet macro algae in a fuge acts in a similar self-limiting way.

Also, I have to ask. How often do you do water changes? IMO, a 50% water change is enormous and probably unnecessary, especially if it’s done weekly or even bi-monthly and if you have actively growing macro algae. For perspective, I’m running a 120 total gallon sps heavy system, run an algae turf scrubber with a bubble magus nac 3.5 skimmer, seem to never have my nitrates rise above 5ppm and haven’t done a water change in months.
 
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incloud design

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This is pretty much the reason why I run an algae turf scrubber. It has a self-regulating factor to it where the algae will grow as much as it can provided enough nutrients are present. When those levels drop below what the algae can handle, some of that algae dies and releases trapped nitrates and phosphates, creating a cycle of growth and death and regrowth around a pretty much unchanging nitrate and phosphate level. For my system, it’s been around 5ppm nitrates and .03 phosphates. The trick is starting the scrubber at lower nutrient levels vs. more often starting one because nutrients are out of control. It’s an absolutely fantastic way to keep low nutrients without stripping too much out and I use it in conjunction with a very undersized skimmer. TBH I’ve ran the system with just the ATS for around five months without issue. I’ll bet macro algae in a fuge acts in a similar self-limiting way.

Also, I have to ask. How often do you do water changes? IMO, a 50% water change is enormous and probably unnecessary, especially if it’s done weekly or even bi-monthly and if you have actively growing macro algae. For perspective, I’m running a 120 total gallon sps heavy system, run an algae turf scrubber with a bubble magus nac 3.5 skimmer, seem to never have my nitrates rise above 5ppm and haven’t done a water change in months.

I have a nice ATS that I had set up but it seemed like a waste of electricity and nothing more. I have no nutrients so nothing would grow and believe me I tried. As far as your water changes go you are blessed. I'd be back in love with this hobby if I didn't have to constantly buy salt and filter media. Just this month alone was about $300 on salt and media but that's changing 300 gallons and fighting this Cyano. I believe my biggest problem is me and my anal retentive cleaning habits that cause most of my tank issues. Once this is stable and nutrients are showing I'll get my ATS to work for sure. Thanks very much for your insight!

My turf scrubber when it was in the mix. It's in my laundry room now, lol.

20181116_235325_HDR.jpg
 

RELLIK-REEF

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Hopefully you dont stop fighting for something you love. But start some cheato in your sump it should take off quickly, also do a reverse light cycle. I have a 200gallon and I started haven't the same problem after we moved to our new house it was all do to sunlight, i moved it across the room. It was better but still bright on one side so I painted it, we haven't had an issue since. Cheato made a world off difference in No3 also. Good luck friend.
 
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Hopefully you dont stop fighting for something you love. But start some cheato in your sump it should take off quickly, also do a reverse light cycle. I have a 200gallon and I started haven't the same problem after we moved to our new house it was all do to sunlight, i moved it across the room. It was better but still bright on one side so I painted it, we haven't had an issue since. Cheato made a world off difference in No3 also. Good luck friend.

I won't give up, get frustrated yes but give up no. Moving the tank is not an option. I tore out a wall in my house just for the tank to fit and allow furniture. I live alone and my dog and my tank are my favorites so this is just another battle I'll overcome. Thanks for your words of inspiration and I'm putting up curtains tomorrow to block out the light, lol. This picture was during cycling but shows the window and blinds that may be an issue.

Canopy Build Final (9).jpg
 

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I have a nice ATS that I had set up but it seemed like a waste of electricity and nothing more. I have no nutrients so nothing would grow and believe me I tried. As far as your water changes go you are blessed. I'd be back in love with this hobby if I didn't have to constantly buy salt and filter media. Just this month alone was about $300 on salt and media but that's changing 300 gallons and fighting this Cyano. I believe my biggest problem is me and my anal retentive cleaning habits that cause most of my tank issues. Once this is stable and nutrients are showing I'll get my ATS to work for sure. Thanks very much for your insight!

My turf scrubber when it was in the mix. It's in my laundry room now, lol.

20181116_235325_HDR.jpg

Yeah, it definitely needs some nutrients to work (2.5ppm nitrates and greater). ULNS are finicky things for sure. This is my very simple and very DIY system.

d19f3658e7ab3d35d30fa11ccaffe60e.jpg
 

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One of my tanks had cyano that would never go away until I started dosing nitrates. I do not understand how other people have such lovely high NO3 in their tanks without trying, I pour NO3 into mine and barely get detectable levels.

In any case, once I got stable 2 ppm NO3 my cyano went away and hasnt come back.

Me too.
 
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I'm thinking about removing my cardboard today and letting some light back in. The tank is entirely clear of Cyano but it was before and as soon as light came in it was back. I made a video to show my setup and get suggestions. Thanks to everyone for all the help I feel as though it's possible to get through this now.

 

crusso1993

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I'm thinking about removing my cardboard today and letting some light back in. The tank is entirely clear of Cyano but it was before and as soon as light came in it was back. I made a video to show my setup and get suggestions. Thanks to everyone for all the help I feel as though it's possible to get through this now.



Oddly enough, I saw your videos from when you were first setting this system up. I was like, "This duy has a really strange accent!" LOL! I'm born and raised in Chicago and people tell me I sound like I'm from Chicago. I never know what they're talking about!

Anyway, prior to going through the headache of relocating the RODI, have you considered testing output then throwing a dark sheet/shielding it from the light and then retesting it to see if there are any changes in chemistry? Just a thought as it may give some solid answers regarding the light having an affect on the RODI system.
 
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incloud design

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Oddly enough, I saw your videos from when you were first setting this system up. I was like, "This duy has a really strange accent!" LOL! I'm born and raised in Chicago and people tell me I sound like I'm from Chicago. I never know what they're talking about!

Anyway, prior to going through the headache of relocating the RODI, have you considered testing output then throwing a dark sheet/shielding it from the light and then retesting it to see if there are any changes in chemistry? Just a thought as it may give some solid answers regarding the light having an affect on the RODI system.

It won't be a big deal to move and I'd feel better getting it away from the electricity anyhow. But I have tested in various scenarios and always come back 0 TDS which stumps me. At this point there is no trace whatsoever of Cyano in my system. I have a few tiny patches of diatom today after removing the cardboard from around the tank. I'm tempted to turn the lights on at 7 until 11 with just 2 channels and see how it responds. But I'm terrified it is going to come back once again. That Chemi-Clean must have kicked in because there is no trace left and my snails and other critters look as though they were sand blasted clean when they usually look like a decorator crab, lol. I'll run some tests this evening to see how the parameters are.
 

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