Maximum copepod density

TWYOUNG

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How can I tell when my copepods have reached a maximum density? I've been culturing Tig and Tisbe's for a year and still struggle with when to harvest. Once per month I remove 50% of the pods and media then top off the media for the remaining pods. My current batch of Tigs are due but don't look as dense as I'd like. I've tested for ammonia in the past and don't get a significant amount.
 

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I harvest them when they are so plentyful that my eyes can see them easily without a magnifying glass. Usually about 3-4 weeks after I start the culture.
 
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TWYOUNG

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I harvest them when they are so plentyful that my eyes can see them easily without a magnifying glass. Usually about 3-4 weeks after I start the culture.
My Tig pods are always easily visible. Tisbe pods being much smaller need a flashlight to see but are also visible to the naked eye. The only time I can't see mine with a flashlight is when the media is especially dense with phytoplankton.
 

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The only real way to know is to quantify your cultures.

Tigs have been observed in densities as high as 20,000 pods per liter and Tisbee 2X that amount.

Do you have a microscope and Sedgewick-Rafter counting slide?
 
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TWYOUNG

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The only real way to know is to quantify your cultures.

Tigs have been observed in densities as high as 20,000 pods per liter and Tisbee 2X that amount.

Do you have a microscope and Sedgewick-Rafter counting slide?
Microscope yes, Sedgewick no. Even with those it seems it would be near impossible to obtain a drop of water with a representative concentration of organisms. Phyto I could see but pods are quite active on the slide and also seem to congregate near the bottom and outsides of their container. I'm thinking I'll just have to let experience and my flashlight guide me.
 

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In case you are curious, you have been doing it for a year now;

This is the one I used:



Ha not an affeliate link lol

This is how I do it and it is from Reef Nutrition:

1698094184525.png
 
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TWYOUNG

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In case you are curious, you have been doing it for a year now;

This is the one I used:



Ha not an affeliate link lol

This is how I do it and it is from Reef Nutrition:

1698094184525.png

Very interesting. It's that third step I believe I may find difficult. I don't know if you experience this but I seem to end up with a lot of coagulated junk at the bottom of my cultures, from the looks of it mostly dead phyto I suppose, and it gets caught in my micron filter,(55 micron), with my pods.
 

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I know exactly what you mean! That gunk is the hardest part of culturing pods, my experience has been to feed daily and do water changes often. I don't syphon the gunk into my filter it will clog it up!

I found that you have to lose pods to win some, I do keep the adults separate from the nauplii
 
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TWYOUNG

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I know exactly what you mean! That gunk is the hardest part of culturing pods, my experience has been to feed daily and do water changes often. I don't syphon the gunk into my filter it will clog it up!

I found that you have to lose pods to win some, I do keep the adults separate from the nauplii
I harvest mine monthly with a 50% water change but otherwise haven't been been doing water changes. Maybe I should start occasionally siphoning the "gunk" off the bottom and topping off with fresh sw. I worry about losing pods and eggs but perhaps that's what you mean by, "lose pods to win some"?
 

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Unfortunately, during the cleaning process, you do lose pods, but keeping the water clean allows us to have more pods in the long run.

I am of the opinion that more water changes yields higher cultures. I am working on a write up to summarize my experience.
 
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TWYOUNG

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Unfortunately, during the cleaning process, you do lose pods, but keeping the water clean allows us to have more pods in the long run.

I am of the opinion that more water changes yields higher cultures. I am working on a write up to summarize my experience.
You sound like a pro so I have a related question for you. I hear a great deal about the benefit of copepods but very little about amphipods. Would you recommend adding these to a tank?
 

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A pro or expert is someone who made the mistakes already...trust me lol

But to answer your question, I don't think I can comment yet on the benefit of having amphipods, I haven't really studied them to be frank.

I know when I tried to breed nudis I avoided them like the plague because they would eat the eggs. I don't know the nutritional value or how quickly they reproduce.

Amphipods are less talked about for sure, in a recent BRS video they did a study that use ecopods from Algae Barn to fight the uglies when first setting up a tank, I don't believe they tried amphipods. It may be worth exploring.

Personally speaking, I only think of pods when I am first setting up a tank and or if I have a mandarin goby. But for me the goal is to be able to use to breed corals or fish and feed them live foods.
 
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TWYOUNG

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A pro or expert is someone who made the mistakes already...trust me lol

But to answer your question, I don't think I can comment yet on the benefit of having amphipods, I haven't really studied them to be frank.

I know when I tried to breed nudis I avoided them like the plague because they would eat the eggs. I don't know the nutritional value or how quickly they reproduce.

Amphipods are less talked about for sure, in a recent BRS video they did a study that use ecopods from Algae Barn to fight the uglies when first setting up a tank, I don't believe they tried amphipods. It may be worth exploring.

Personally speaking, I only think of pods when I am first setting up a tank and or if I have a mandarin goby. But for me the goal is to be able to use to breed corals or fish and feed them live foods.
Yeah, Tanknicians posted a video basically stating people were wasting their money continuing to add pods to a tank without the special circumstances you described. Their point was whether added or not they'll reach an equilibrium population. My tank is relatively young, 16mo., and has experienced dinos several times so for now I'll keep adding pods, phyto. and bacteria.
 

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I harvest mine monthly with a 50% water change but otherwise haven't been been doing water changes. Maybe I should start occasionally siphoning the "gunk" off the bottom and topping off with fresh sw. I worry about losing pods and eggs but perhaps that's what you mean by, "lose pods to win some"?
That gunk is called mulm and most of your nauplii reside in that be careful removing to much of it . It's not pretty but plays a important role in culturing .
 
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TWYOUNG

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That gunk is called mulm and most of your nauplii reside in that be careful removing to much of it . It's not pretty but plays a important role in culturing .
Thanks for the input. In my case it looks mostly like dead phyto but I'll definitely keep that in mind. btw, it would appear my Tig cultures are dying off while my Tisbes are still doing well. Thinking of switching to all Tisbe. Is there any reason to order more Tigs and go through the lengthy process of building up a significant volume of them vs just adding Tisbe.
 

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Thanks for the input. In my case it looks mostly like dead phyto but I'll definitely keep that in mind. btw, it would appear my Tig cultures are dying off while my Tisbes are still doing well. Thinking of switching to all Tisbe. Is there any reason to order more Tigs and go through the lengthy process of building up a significant volume of them vs just adding Tisbe.
Tigs are a stand alone food source for fish . They don't reproduce well or survive long in home reef aquariums . Tisbe would be the way to go IMO
 

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Unfortunately, during the cleaning process, you do lose pods, but keeping the water clean allows us to have more pods in the long run.

I am of the opinion that more water changes yields higher cultures. I am working on a write up to summarize my experience.
How is this write up coming? I use 3g containers that look like shoe boxes. I've done water changes and strain everything through a 55m sieve. All that crap at the bottom stays in the sieve. I've read to keep 30% of it. I'm not sure how to do so though. I suppose that I could strain just the water first and then scoop out some and add it to a new vessel.

A tutorial on harvesting pods would be amazing! Sizes of the strains comes into play as well I would assume. Reef Nutrition etates they harvest tiggers with 200m sieves which catches adults and juveniles. I run apocylcops, tisbe and tiggers. My tisbes are the eldest and it's going on a month and I've done 2 water changes. I started with 1g and now they are 2.5g and every square inch of the sides is densely populated with pods. The entire bottom is covered in about 1/3" thick whatever it is...
 
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TWYOUNG

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How is this write up coming? I use 3g containers that look like shoe boxes. I've done water changes and strain everything through a 55m sieve. All that crap at the bottom stays in the sieve. I've read to keep 30% of it. I'm not sure how to do so though. I suppose that I could strain just the water first and then scoop out some and add it to a new vessel.

A tutorial on harvesting pods would be amazing! Sizes of the strains comes into play as well I would assume. Reef Nutrition etates they harvest tiggers with 200m sieves which catches adults and juveniles. I run apocylcops, tisbe and tiggers. My tisbes are the eldest and it's going on a month and I've done 2 water changes. I started with 1g and now they are 2.5g and every square inch of the sides is densely populated with pods. The entire bottom is covered in about 1/3" thick whatever it is...
I to would like an update. I have two 3g culture vessels and am currently thoroughly cleaning one harvesting one each month and splitting the other. Considering letting them go longer and using my Hanna ammonia tester to monitor. In the past I've found total ammonia levels around 0.10 to 0.15 after one month. Problem is I'm not sure what level the ammonia would need to rise to to be an issue, and if ammonia build up is the only issue to be concerned with.
 

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I to would like an update. I have two 3g culture vessels and am currently thoroughly cleaning one harvesting one each month and splitting the other. Considering letting them go longer and using my Hanna ammonia tester to monitor. In the past I've found total ammonia levels around 0.10 to 0.15 after one month. Problem is I'm not sure what level the ammonia would need to rise to to be an issue, and if ammonia build up is the only issue to be concerned with.
I did a little more research on this last night. RN runs a batch for 80 days and does a 100% reset. When I started, I didn't have mulm and it started to collect after about a week. This seems like the safest route to follow, although it will set you back a bit without the mulm. I found this on another thread. I ordered a 250 and 120 from Mercer last night. I already have a 53:
--Tigger--
250 Adults
120 Juveniles
53 Waste

--Tisbe / Apocyclops--
250 Waste
120 Adults
53 Juveniles

My plan is to do a 100% water change every month and transfer 25% of the mulm and pods back into the culture. I may try the reset after it's obvious that my tank is populated. I use phyto feast as well as self-cultured iso and tetra. I really need to watch the phyto feast because it will nuke your culture fast if you dose too much.
 

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