My Acro is turning brown):

[BrandonS]

would also recommended Bulk reef supply's you tube channel. There 5 minute tank series and 52 weeks of reefing are very good and full of info.

 

[BrandonS]

As eluded to here, when mixing salt water most use RO/DI water with 0 TDS (total dissolved solids) to mix with there salt mix. This keeps chlorine, silicates, nitrates,ammonia and unwanted minerals (i.e. copper, etc.) out of your water. It is very common for tap water to have chlorine, silicates, etc.. in it. Some salt mixes are branded as pro or something similar and boast higher alk, calcium, and mag levels. In most cases those high levels aren't needed.

You also would want to make sure you are topping off the evaporation in your tank with RO/DI water. Topping off with saltwater can also increase your levels by also increasing salinity. This can be measured my checking salinity with a refractometer. Something also needed when mixing saltwater. If you buy pre mixed saltwater it should be at the right salinity already but checking again never hurts.

Tell us about your tanks. do you have coral in your 150? what kind of coral? what kind of fish? How long have you been working on a saltwater reef tank?

Not trying to be mean just trying to help.

 

[nano_ryan]

what salt brand do you use to mix with? and what salinity (specific gravity) do you mix to?

What brand test kit are you using for your water testing? A good Local fish store(LFS) will test for you but testing consistently is the key.

I use normal IO. And use api test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrates, and ph. And use salifert on phosphates, kh, and magnesium.

 

[nano_ryan]

How is it moving it to “your” 150g gonna color it up when you use tap water and have no clue on keeping acros or what rodi is?? Hmmm

Only reason I said that is because I have the exact same piece of acro In my 150 with no problems.

 

[x2uranium]

I.o salt is fine. I find a bit high dkh for my liking out of the bucket. I usually let it mix open air for about5- 7 days to get the alk correct.
It takes work and dedication. But if you can stock to it, it will be worth it.

Money where my mouth is.

 

[nano_ryan]

As eluded to here, when mixing salt water most use RO/DI water with 0 TDS (total dissolved solids) to mix with there salt mix. This keeps chlorine, silicates, nitrates,ammonia and unwanted minerals (i.e. copper, etc.) out of your water. It is very common for tap water to have chlorine, silicates, etc.. in it. Some salt mixes are branded as pro or something similar and boast higher alk, calcium, and mag levels. In most cases those high levels aren't needed.

You also would want to make sure you are topping off the evaporation in your tank with RO/DI water. Topping off with saltwater can also increase your levels by also increasing salinity. This can be measured my checking salinity with a refractometer. Something also needed when mixing saltwater. If you buy pre mixed saltwater it should be at the right salinity already but checking again never hurts.

Tell us about your tanks. do you have coral in your 150? what kind of coral? what kind of fish? How long have you been working on a saltwater reef tank?

Not trying to be mean just trying to help.

Im a huge researcher In reef keeping and know way to much about this stuff, but as some people know more. Thats why I asked about my acro’s color change. Anyways, the 150 uses different tap then my nano at home, so it doesnt have nitrates or phosphates. The tank has a 40gallon sump with a refugium. Theres 10-20 frags of mixed corals(montipora, muchrooms, chalice, acro, platygyra, brain coral, trachy, and bubble tips. and about 13 fish(tangs,clowns,1angels,1ingeneer goby)

 

[x2uranium]

Cheap salt cheap ro good membrane and if you change enough good water over and over with stable parameters and your tank will crush acros. Best of luck.

 

[nano_ryan]

Cheap salt cheap ro good membrane and if you change enough good water over and over with stable parameters and your tank will crush acros. Best of luck.

Ok thank you

 

[BrandonS]

Im a huge researcher In reef keeping and know way to much about this stuff, but as some people know more. Thats why I asked about my acro’s color change. Anyways, the 150 uses different tap then my nano at home, so it doesnt have nitrates or phosphates. The tank has a 40gallon sump with a refugium. Theres 10-20 frags of mixed corals(montipora, muchrooms, chalice, acro, platygyra, brain coral, trachy, and bubble tips. and about 13 fish(tangs,clowns,1angels,1ingeneer goby)

Ok, when you say different tap what do you mean? Different parts of the house? One before a whole home filter? One after? One from a well one from city water? One out of a smaller spout on a sink which would be a RO unit.

Also if one tank is doing well and the other is not could you use a bucket to match the water used? Maybe use the larger tank water change water for the small tank water change.

I am a salifert test guy myself.

What is the lighting between the two tanks? Any idea on par for both tanks? If you give us light models we could guess possible par. If this is the route would also need light height above water and water depth of each tank.

Trying to find out the differences.

Also are they're other Coral's in the nano? How are they doing? Did you use rock from the 150 to start the nano? How long has the 150 been up.

A nano for many is much harder than a larger tank because things can fluctuate much faster. Also due to size a refugium or other common export methods are not possible in a nano setup.

Have you tried more frequent water changes to help stabilize the nano better?

 

[nano_ryan]

Ok, when you say different tap what do you mean? Different parts of the house? One before a whole home filter? One after? One from a well one from city water? One out of a smaller spout on a sink which would be a RO unit.

Also if one tank is doing well and the other is not could you use a bucket to match the water used? Maybe use the larger tank water change water for the small tank water change.

I am a salifert test guy myself.

What is the lighting between the two tanks? Any idea on par for both tanks? If you give us light models we could guess possible par. If this is the route would also need light height above water and water depth of each tank.

Trying to find out the differences.

Also are they're other Coral's in the nano? How are they doing? Did you use rock from the 150 to start the nano? How long has the 150 been up.

A nano for many is much harder than a larger tank because things can fluctuate much faster. Also due to size a refugium or other common export methods are not possible in a nano setup.

Have you tried more frequent water changes to help stabilize the nano better?

The 150 is running in my fathers car business inside a different building, city water(filtered before put in tank). And mine nano 20g is well water(conditioned). I bought 2 RODI systems that will arrive on monday, so no more tap! The 150 is running 3 Hydra 25. And the 20 is running
Phlizon 165w Light. My 20 is older then the 150. I do have many corals in the 20(zoas, carpet anemone, bubbletip anemone, kenya tree, torch, frogspawn, star polyps, toadstool). They are all doing amazing especially the BTA. My acro is the only thing not doing so good.

 

[Water Dog]

When you say city water (filtered before put in tank)... what does that mean? Filtered how? Who manages that tank? With that much coral! how are they maintaining the big 3 parameters (Alk, Ca & Mg) essential for keeping coral successfully, through dosing? A lot of water changes?

 

[nano_ryan]

When you say city water (filtered before put in tank)... what does that mean? Filtered how? Who manages that tank? With that much coral! how are they maintaining the big 3 parameters (Alk, Ca & Mg) essential for keeping coral successfully, through dosing? A lot of water changes?

Wow. Relax dude.
I manage my tanks, duh. The tap already has all the perimeters to keep coral, I do dose to give an extra boost.
I have a 7 stage filter that i use to get rid of toxic metals in the tap before I put it into the tank during water changes.

 

[Water Dog]

Woah... Sorry for asking.

 

[BrandonS]

Wow. Relax dude.
I manage my tanks, duh. The tap already has all the perimeters to keep coral, I do dose to give an extra boost.
I have a 7 stage filter that i use to get rid of toxic metals in the tap before I put it into the tank during water changes.

He is asking about consumption. In between water changes coral consumes elements. Alk,mag, calcium. In many cases daily dosing is needed to keep those imbalance. Allow them to swing can upset coral. For example my 93 cube pulls almost 2 dkh of alk out everyday. Only way to know that is to test regularly. I test once a week unless I am changing something like dosing amount, lighting, adding aminos, etc.. then I can test as much as once a day till it looks like things settle out.

 

[BrandonS]

The 150 is running in my fathers car business inside a different building, city water(filtered before put in tank). And mine nano 20g is well water(conditioned). I bought 2 RODI systems that will arrive on monday, so no more tap! The 150 is running 3 Hydra 25. And the 20 is running
Phlizon 165w Light. My 20 is older then the 150. I do have many corals in the 20(zoas, carpet anemone, bubbletip anemone, kenya tree, torch, frogspawn, star polyps, toadstool). They are all doing amazing especially the BTA. My acro is the only thing not doing so good.

What are the settings on the philzon? Black box type lights can be par monsters. I have one on a 20 long frag tank and with blue at 22 and whites at 5 I get 200 par at the bottom in the middle. Light mounted 16" off water.

Also everything except the acro is going to be more tolerable of parameter swings. As they are all lps or softies. How often do you test your water?

 

[BrandonS]

Wow. Relax dude.
I manage my tanks, duh. The tap already has all the perimeters to keep coral, I do dose to give an extra boost.
I have a 7 stage filter that i use to get rid of toxic metals in the tap before I put it into the tank during water changes.

7 stage? So the ro/di you just bought?or do you have a 7 stage with carbon, particulate filters?

Also i think you may be thinking about it wrong. tap does not have everything for corals the salt mixed into the water is what has everything needed (more or less). In your case instant ocean.

 

[BrandonS]

Wow. Relax dude.
I manage my tanks, duh. The tap already has all the perimeters to keep coral, I do dose to give an extra boost.
I have a 7 stage filter that i use to get rid of toxic metals in the tap before I put it into the tank during water changes.

Also relax your self. I jumped into this thread because the initial reaction of people was to jump on you after you mentioned tap and assume you know nothing. They were not being helpful. I am trying to help. And I believe @waterdog was too. He is trying to discern skill level from the questions as some of the answers you give send mixed signals on that part. Be civil please.

 

[BrandonS]

When you say city water (filtered before put in tank)... what does that mean? Filtered how? Who manages that tank? With that much coral! how are they maintaining the big 3 parameters (Alk, Ca & Mg) essential for keeping coral successfully, through dosing? A lot of water changes?

Not sure how much he is testing so maybe it's a blind spot at the moment. Large water volume helping probably?

 

[Fishbird]

I do dose to give an extra boost.

When you say you dose to give an extra boost, what are you dosing specifically?

 

[BrandonS]

Also a thought if you have a LFS store ask if you can watch while they maintain one of there tanks or volunteer a Saturday or something to learn. A great way to learn and worth a hour or two of scrubbing algae.