Nitrite Tests, what the heck!!!

Eye H8 Empty V

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So I'm running around chasing numbers (I know, ridiculous) and starting to go crazy. I was using the API test but switched to the Hanna Nitrite ULR test kit because I like numbers, not colors. I just realized that the API test is in PPM and the Hanna tester is PPB. I assumed they were the same and thought my nitrites were through the roof as the Hanna checker has been between 30 and 60ppb. I also assumed my nitrites were through the roof and have been dosing nitrobacter7 like crazy trying to lower them figuring the bacteria population isn't high enough to break down the nitrites into nitrates. So I decided to go back to the API test and it's 0!!!

1. Is the Hanna checker too low range to be relevant?
2. Is it better to stick with the API test?
3. What do you use and how often do you check nitrites if at all?

The tank first saw water in October and my LPS' are finally showing some growth.

Thanks!
 

besskurz

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Lets stick first to what is PPM and PPB.

Probably both readings may be correct.

Just a dumb example:

PPM (parts per million - 7 digits) is looking into water with human eyes. You see clear water, 0 readings.

PPB (parts per bilion - 8 digits) is looking into water with a microscope. You will definitely find more stuff in water if compared to naked human eye. 30..60ppb.

It all depends in my view on the objectives of your tank.

Theoretical example: some ppl keep nitrates at 10-20 PPM depending on their coral needs. This means that your ULR tester would not be really relevant for this goal. Readings will be idk..99999, you would need a PPM range test.

I'm not the owner of the truth. This is just my understanding. If in not precise, yall from Nitrates Patrol are more than welcome to share your opinions.
 
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Eye H8 Empty V

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Lets stick first to what is PPM and PPB.

Probably both readings may be correct.

Just a dumb example:

PPM (parts per million - 7 digits) is looking into water with human eyes. You see clear water, 0 readings.

PPB (parts per bilion - 8 digits) is looking into water with a microscope. You will definitely find more stuff in water if compared to naked human eye. 30..60ppb.

It all depends in my view on the objectives of your tank.

Theoretical example: some ppl keep nitrates at 10-20 PPM depending on their coral needs. This means that your ULR tester would not be really relevant for this goal. Readings will be idk..99999, you would need a PPM range test.

I'm not the owner of the truth. This is just my understanding. If in not precise, yall from Nitrates Patrol are more than welcome to share your opinions.
Thank you for the reply! I'm talking nitrites not nitrates though. So my concern, from the little that I know if nitrites, is regarding the available O2 for the fish and corals.

Thanks!
 

brclark82

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Nitrites, for the most part, are irrelevant in saltwater aquariums. It’s a good idea to keep an eye on them during your initial cycle to see where you are in the cycle but once you’ve completed the initial cycle I can’t think of a single reason to ever test for them again. The Hanna ULR is so sensitive it will probably always have some reading just for the short time there is some present during the regular nitrogen cycle. If your tank is cycled I would sell that tester and get something useful.
 

besskurz

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Nitrites, for the most part, are irrelevant in saltwater aquariums. It’s a good idea to keep an eye on them during your initial cycle to see where you are in the cycle but once you’ve completed the initial cycle I can’t think of a single reason to ever test for them again. The Hanna ULR is so sensitive it will probably always have some reading just for the short time there is some present during the regular nitrogen cycle. If your tank is cycled I would sell that tester and get something useful.
Yeah... that's the point why I thought this question was about NO³ / nitrates.

I don't even test nitrites.

I share of the same opinion. Nitrites are only relevant during cycle.

@Eye H8 Empty V not sure if you bought too long ago this checker.. but maybe consider it returning... honestly you won't use this much.
 

drolmaeye

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The issue of nitrites binding with hemoglobin is a freshwater issue; we do not need to worry about this in a saltwater tank. The API test has sufficient resolution, your nitrites are effectively zero, as you would expect for a cycled tank. Rest easy about nitrites (and look for another number to chase, if you must).
 
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Eye H8 Empty V

Eye H8 Empty V

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Thanks for you're replies everyone. I'm trying to dial everything in and was worried about nitrite until I realized that it was PPB. Unfortunately, I cannot return the kit since it's used.

Billy
 
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EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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Are you stalking me or just a troll? You mom must not have told you about "if you don't have anything nice to say." Thanks for contributing from your wealth of knowledge and insight. :rolleyes:

- The Stalked
I am not stalking or trolling you :rolleyes:
You've sought out my advice on a number of occasions so I assumed my feedback was welcome.
No need to be insulting. I've taken the hint.
 
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Eye H8 Empty V

Eye H8 Empty V

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I am not stalking or trolling you :rolleyes:
You've sought out my advice on a number of occasions so I assumed my feedback was welcome.
No need to be insulting. I've taken the hint.
Erin I didn't realize that was you! I apologize! I do value your advice, I promise. I can't keep track of these usernames.

Billy
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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Erin I didn't realize that was you! I apologize! I do value your advice, I promise. I can't keep track of these usernames.

Billy
Yeah, sorry. I changed it a few weeks ago, lol!
 

taricha

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a hanna NO2 tester is fun to use, but just for curiosity in an established tank. No health-of-tank relevance to NO2 readings in an established system
 

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