Not another LED Light question! (ViparSpectra)

[DracoKat]

So, I mentioned yesterday that my T5 fixture just stopped working. It was a Coralife luna 4-bulb T5 and it has done me extremely well- it grew SPS nicely- though it did not work too well for anemones and clams.

I am thinking about giving LED's a try, seeing great feedback on them about the forums. I figured lets experiment a little seeing I need new fixture anyway.

I am on a very tight budget- I'd say $300 max at the moment- and I don't have much of a choice, I need replacement fixtures for my corals and I can't wait to save up for more money.

I am leaning to getting (2) 165W Viparspectra here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UMXAR5S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1BSXM5KIS5MZE&psc=1

If anyone has suggestions on something better in my price range, let me know!

I have a few questions.. mainly about mounting.
I can't stand the looks of hanging fixtures and I'd like to keep them inside my canopy for a cleaner look.

• Can I mount these guys on legs? (Recycling the current legs I have from my current fixture to make them fit).
• Would it be OK just a few inches over the top with lower settings? (I am talking 3-4 inches).

• How hot does this get?
• Those with this fixture, do you love it?

 

[Jason_1990]

So i have a very similar fixture if not the same one. An these leds can grow coral. Im growing sps an zoas under mine, ive had to tune down the white to under 15% to keep from burning coral. But of course every tank an situation varies. Dont take my word for it.
But this also depends how far off the water you are. Mine hangs 8 inchs from the water. Most ppl would probably say over a foot because these chinese boxs are known for hot spots an they dont blend well. I would deff reccomend them.

 

[Michael Llabona]

I have a reefbreeder photon. It is still considered part of the black box line. I really like the POP that LEDs provide. But, you will get a lot of shadowing and possibly hot spots. I would recommend adding the T5 retrofit to the leds. My LEDs did fine with my SPS but when I added 2 t5s to my system my SPS growth and colors dramatically improved.

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

I have the 165W Viparspectra. I really like it. I would have preferred it without the integrated timer (one more thing to break), but I still like it.

One of the things I like most is that the Viparspectra is sort of a "premium" black box option. I've opened mine up and the wiring is really slick. It also has a few heatsinks on the back of the LED PCB. They're pretty low-profile and may not absorb a ton of heat, but compared to the average black box that has no heatsink at all, it's a step up. What's more, the color of the diodes as well as actual layout produce a nice even color profile.

I have mine mounted about 2' above my 20g long to get adequate coverage. As a result, I have to run the blues close t0 100% and the whites around 20% to get the intensity I want. The box is never hot to the touch and the air coming out is only barely warm. It's never hot. I can't say how well this anecdote translates if you put two of them in a canopy, but I also don't think you'll be running either channel at 100%.

In terms of mounting on legs, they're not set up for it, but I'm sure with some ingenuity you could make it happen. As long as they're not getting splashed with water, I'm sure they would be fine right up on the water. The only issue might be light spread. You might not get enough over a 75 if they're right on the water. You could always try removing the optics though, that would give better spread at the cost of intensity (which truthfully, these lights have plenty of as it is).

I definitely do love this light. As I mentioned, if I could choose, I would remove the timer and clock and save an extra $10, but that's really my only complaint. The unit feels solid for a black box, has great LED color layout and spectrum, and is priced very affordably. I was going to set up a 2' x 4' frag tray and was planning on getting a few of these to light it. As of now, that plan has fallen through, but if I do get a frag tray in the future, I'm going to light it with these.

 

[DracoKat]

I am just finding about the shadowing, having it low to the tank.

I have an SBar supplement light, think that will help with the shadowing? Just really can't afford any extras at the moment

 

[redfishbluefish]

Those lights will work just fine....assuming a tank about 4 feet or so long.

As far as mounting, you have a number of options, dependent on the setup of your canopy. Ideally if your canopy is open on the top, you can mount these right at the top of the canopy. The higher up, the better......ideal height above waterline is 14 inches.

Now this does come with cable hangers, but the "tightest" you can make them, when used conventionally, is 4 1/2 inch down.

Now these fixtures have four studs protruding from the top.....most likely metric, and I'll guess M8 - 1.25. You can use these in a number of ways.

Here's an example if you have a solid canopy top (that will support the weight of the fixtures. Carefully measure the locations of the four studs and drill holes through the canopy top. Now cut the canopy top to allow the fans to vent through the top. Use the cables, screw one to one of the studs and now pass the cable up through the hole and now down through another to screw to one of the other studs. Repeat for the other pair of studs.

Now if it's an open top, what comes to mind is a rack system using angle aluminum (available at HD) and bolt it up that way. I'm open top, and HERE's my most recent way I hung SBReef fixtures, and you can also see how my old ones were hung using angle aluminum. Hopefully this gives you some ideas.

 

[DracoKat]

Those lights will work just fine....assuming a tank about 4 feet or so long.

As far as mounting, you have a number of options, dependent on the setup of your canopy. Ideally if your canopy is open on the top, you can mount these right at the top of the canopy. The higher up, the better......ideal height above waterline is 14 inches.

Now this does come with cable hangers, but the "tightest" you can make them, when used conventionally, is 4 1/2 inch down.

Now these fixtures have four studs protruding from the top.....most likely metric, and I'll guess M8 - 1.25. You can use these in a number of ways.

Here's an example if you have a solid canopy top (that will support the weight of the fixtures. Carefully measure the locations of the four studs and drill holes through the canopy top. Now cut the canopy top to allow the fans to vent through the top. Use the cables, screw one to one of the studs and now pass the cable up through the hole and now down through another to screw to one of the other studs. Repeat for the other pair of studs.

That is an excellent idea, actually. a good way for me to move up the light fixtures more and still remain somewhat hidden. I will have to enlist my dad to help because I do not have the tools to cut into the canopy

 

[redfishbluefish]

.........I will have to enlist my dad to help because I do not have the tools to cut into the canopy

That's what dad's are for and while he's over, have him paint the living room.

 

[DracoKat]

lol, he's done a lot to my place since I've moved. I might as well get him to work while he's still able to

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

This is 3 SB reeflight basics. (Before I cleaned up the wires.).
They run the full length of the tank. It’s an 8in (8x16) future looks all bbs, in a 12in wide tank. There is no shadowing. The canopy is about 9 tall.over the water.closer to the tank like it’s makes it a larger source over the subject reducing shadow even more.
I have a piece of diffusion under Each Light to smooth out the hot spot.
With no diffusion and stock lenses, at 1% on each channel I get about 250 par at the top of the tank.
I’d have to know how far above your tank the t5 is to estimate your par, bit you’d likely not go over 50% with a stock standard black box.

 

[Ruben's Reef]

I had the 165W Viparspectra on my 40g breeder and was doing great. Recently I sold the 165w and got the bigger 300w and I like it better. Seating 12" about waterline and running 25% white 85% blue.

 

[DracoKat]

This is 3 SB reeflight basics. (Before I cleaned up the wires.).
They run the full length of the tank. It’s an 8in (8x16) future looks all bbs, in a 12in wide tank. There is no shadowing. The canopy is about 9 tall.over the water.closer to the tank like it’s makes it a larger source over the subject reducing shadow even more.
I have a piece of diffusion under Each Light to smooth out the hot spot.
With no diffusion and stock lenses, at 1% on each channel I get about 250 par at the top of the tank.
I’d have to know how far above your tank the t5 is to estimate your par, bit you’d likely not go over 50% with a stock standard black box.

awesome tank!

my t5 is pretty low to the tank. 3-4" I think.

I called Coralife and they are sending me what replacement parts they have left. They don't make this fixture or parts anymore, so I hope one of them does the trick so I won't have to spend extra money at this time.

If it doesn't work, I am getting the LEDs and will trim the canopy to fit.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

awesome tank!

my t5 is pretty low to the tank. 3-4" I think.

I called Coralife and they are sending me what replacement parts they have left. They don't make this fixture or parts anymore, so I hope one of them does the trick so I won't have to spend extra money at this time.

If it doesn't work, I am getting the LEDs and will trim the canopy to fit.

I think you are easily runn 5-600 + par at the top of the tank , prob a 100+ next n the sand. Good numbers there. BBs will hit that easily at a low%.

A fwiw , hopefully it’s an easy fix, if it turns out to be a ballast issue and they don’t have em, a retro ballast is an easy install.
This is from a retro t5 kit. Its the spec you’ll want , might need a different size however.