Phosphate and zoa color loss correlation?

dc_909

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So I have noticed that my RPEs have changed color lately and I was wondering if it might have anything to do with the addition of my phosphate reactor? I added it on 1/9/08. Has anyone else noticed/experienced this? To my knowledge, nothing else has changed. I tried to get the most accurate pics. I know they will be off somewhat do to the pic settings.


11/14/07
100_5490.jpg


1/31/08
100_6517.jpg
 

smcooler

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stripping the water of po4 will lighten your zoa's. Try feeding a little more, or add some aa to peak your colors. I add a small amount of fe seems to help my zoa;s.


stan
 

JGoslee

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Interesting but why would iron (Fe) help? I've seen this happen in my brothers tank. I've given him pretty much every zoa and paly that I have but in his tank they appear to be bleached. His lighting is the same as mine except he has a 120 and I have a 58. It doesn't make sense to me.
 

smcooler

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I cant explain the fe thing i just know it works. I dont put many addatives in my tank just water changes every week and a small amount of fe and pif, iodine floride. Tubs blues and aog look sick afer trying the fe. Have to be carfull to much will turn yellow sps green..



stan
 

surfn

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i'd be very careful adding a straight Fe supplement, as thats fuel for an algae outbreak.

dosing AA's may help though, but i wouldn't add anything that you can reliably test for, including Fe and iodine.

also, with the phosphate reactor, i wouldn't necessarily blame it on stripping phosphates out of the water.....as it could easily strip other things out as well. also, make sure the flow isn't too fast, otherwise it will grind the media up and some will get into the tank and make the corals upset.
 

smcooler

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i'd be very careful adding a straight Fe supplement, as thats fuel for an algae outbreak.

dosing AA's may help though, but i wouldn't add anything that you can reliably test for, including Fe and iodine.

also, with the phosphate reactor, i wouldn't necessarily blame it on stripping phosphates out of the water.....as it could easily strip other things out as well. also, make sure the flow isn't too fast, otherwise it will grind the media up and some will get into the tank and make the corals upset.


I agree 100% iron should be dosed carefully and spareingly as aa. I use the zeo fe and aa. dosage is fe 4 drops 2 times per week and aa 6 drops per day 300 gal net. HTH.


stan
 

143gadgets

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IME I got the best color in my palys and zoas when they were under 20k XMs, high flow, and in my SPS tank. They looked phenominal. I really believe they like much less nutrients than we think. I also was running phosban at this time. I have also noticed that when u run phosban there is a very delicate balance you need to have when considering how much of it ur using. It can really strip the water too clean. Even SPS have better color when there is a minute amout of phosphate in the system. I would really think abouthow much ur using and ur flow rate through it. I too it off my current 50g system because I have a very large skimmer and noticed that even with a high fish load the corals were getting lighter. After removing the phosban things began to look much better. Keep in mkndthat it can also effect ur alk when using it. Is there any particular reason u added it to ur system? L
 

smcooler

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a small amount of po4 is a good thing for any coral, gives richer color. There is a fine ballence to find with nutrienients. I try to feed heavy and skim hard and add a few elements back.


stan
 

MUCHO REEF

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I have the deep blood red variant of this particular paly and the only thing that I have found with it is that it likes light. I reposistioned my colony 4 inches and to the left of where it was, and the color began to fade within a week. I placed it back in its original position, and the color was completely restored in 3 weeks.

I agree with you guys, there are many anecdotal claims of iron helping/preventing chaetomorpha die off, but adding iron should be performed with care/caution.

Mucho
 
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