Phosphate basic advice

Fishn28

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I’m looking into running phosguard in my 75, the tests are reading 0 ppm, I can’t find a solid answer to what is a good level of phosphate. I know when it gets too high I causes problems, and that corals need it to grow

what should I run it at, and how do I get there?
 

gbroadbridge

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I’m looking into running phosguard in my 75, the tests are reading 0 ppm, I can’t find a solid answer to what is a good level of phosphate. I know when it gets too high I causes problems, and that corals need it to grow

what should I run it at, and how do I get there?
0.05ppm to 0.10ppm is a good place to be.

The only two tests I've found that are reliable at that level are the Hanna HI-774 Phosphate ULR or the Red Sea Phosphate Pro.

The Hanna is much easier to use.
 

crazyfishmom

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Normally 0.01-0.1 are considered a good range to shoot for and the middle of that range is the safest place to be in. Feeding will definitely raise phosphates but there are other ways if you’re running an ultra low system for example you can try to dose using Tropic Marin products. It depends on what tank you’re trying to keep.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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If you are getting test results of 0 phosphate, why are you considering adding a phosphate remover?? Don't chase numbers and don't add things that aren't needed. How old is your tank? Was it set up with dry rock, live/wet rock from someone else's tank, or true live rock from the ocean?
Trying to avoid algae altogether is pointless, and ultimately detrimental to your system.
 
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Fishn28

Fishn28

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If you are getting test results of 0 phosphate, why are you considering adding a phosphate remover?? Don't chase numbers and don't add things that aren't needed. How old is your tank? Was it set up with dry rock, live/wet rock from someone else's tank, or true live rock from the ocean?
Trying to avoid algae altogether is pointless, and ultimately detrimental to your system.
Dry rock, used filter media from my previous tank. Wanted to run phosguard to remove any silicates they may have come from the rock, sand, salt etc. I was also unsure what a good target range was and the test I have are only a broad spectrum
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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This is my testing from earlier today

12/29/23

Calcium: 440

dKH: 8

Phosphate: 0

Nitrate: 0-5
How long has this tank been set up? You WILL have to go through the algae cycle (aka "the uglies") and trying to micromanage nutrients in a new tank is pointless.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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About 3 weeks
You have a long road ahead before you need to even THINK about using phosguard, etc. Welcome the diatom bloom, the green algae bloom(s), and even some cyano. Let your tank mature and stabilize. Testing nutrients now does not really tell you anything useful. Once you have some producers and consumers in the tank (in a couple months), then you can look at chemical additives. Water changes should be more than enough to keep things in line for now.
 
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Fishn28

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You have a long road ahead before you need to even THINK about using phosguard, etc. Welcome the diatom bloom, the green algae bloom(s), and even some cyano. Let your tank mature and stabilize. Testing nutrients now does not really tell you anything useful. Once you have some producers and consumers in the tank (in a couple months), then you can look at chemical additives. Water changes should be more than enough to keep things in line for now

You have a long road ahead before you need to even THINK about using phosguard, etc. Welcome the diatom bloom, the green algae bloom(s), and even some cyano. Let your tank mature and stabilize. Testing nutrients now does not really tell you anything useful. Once you have some producers and consumers in the tank (in a couple months), then you can look at chemical additives. Water changes should be more than enough to keep things in line for now.
Thank you for the advice, I will stay away from chemicals, hopefully the pods I added can feast on the diatoms!
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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Thank you for the advice, I will stay away from chemicals, hopefully the pods I added can feast on the diatoms!
They are more likely to help with green (film) algae, but can help with diatoms somewhat. The thing about diatoms is, unless you're continuously adding silicates, they WILL go away. It may take a month, or it may take 3, but just let them be. Diatoms are the least disruptive of any of the early algaes and are a completely normal occurrence in new tanks set up with sand and dry rock.
 

EricR

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If you are getting test results of 0 phosphate, why are you considering adding a phosphate remover?? ...
Agreed. At a couple of years in I pretty much lean towards more is better than less.
*dry rock was mentioned so that can bind for quite a few months
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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Agreed. At a couple of years in I pretty much lean towards more is better than less.
*dry rock was mentioned so that can bind for quite a few months
Yes. My tank runs with phosphate between 0.5 and 1.0, sometimes higher.
 

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