Phosphate Question

richserpe

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Hello all:

This is my first post so please bear with me. I have a new Red Sea Reefer 300 Max G2 +. I have it aquascaped with Caribesea rock and pink sand. I have been cycling the tank for 4 weeks. The levels are all good except for the phosphate. It's been stuck at .25 for a couple of weeks. I had an outbreak of red algae that I got under control with a blackout and the addition of Phospate-E. The algae is gone but the phosphate level is still at .25. I have nothing in the tank yet as I want the water to be as good as I can get it before adding livestock. I intend to add soft corals and anemones in addition to some clownfish, chromis and gobys/jawfish. I will add a cleanup crew when there is enough food to support them. As far as the phosphate level goes, I've seen some contradictory information. The phosphate is bound up in the rock and media. .25 is fine for fish/bad for corals. .25 is fine for fish and corals. Don't know which way to turn. Am I stressing about this too much? Should I add a GFO/Carbon reactor at this point or just add the fish and let nature take its course?? Any advice would be appreciated
 

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Hello all:

This is my first post so please bear with me. I have a new Red Sea Reefer 300 Max G2 +. I have it aquascaped with Caribesea rock and pink sand. I have been cycling the tank for 4 weeks. The levels are all good except for the phosphate. It's been stuck at .25 for a couple of weeks. I had an outbreak of red algae that I got under control with a blackout and the addition of Phospate-E. The algae is gone but the phosphate level is still at .25. I have nothing in the tank yet as I want the water to be as good as I can get it before adding livestock. I intend to add soft corals and anemones in addition to some clownfish, chromis and gobys/jawfish. I will add a cleanup crew when there is enough food to support them. As far as the phosphate level goes, I've seen some contradictory information. The phosphate is bound up in the rock and media. .25 is fine for fish/bad for corals. .25 is fine for fish and corals. Don't know which way to turn. Am I stressing about this too much? Should I add a GFO/Carbon reactor at this point or just add the fish and let nature take its course?? Any advice would be appreciated
.25 is alittle high IMO, though should be fine for soft corals and beginner fish, I just wouldn't recommend adding LPS until you got those levels down. Though just a reminder that 4 weeks is not alot of time, maybe add some GFO to get the levels down a bit.
 
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richserpe

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Thanks. I was considering the mini reactor kit from BRS. Can run carbon and GFO mixed (not tumbled) and sits in the sump. Comes with a pump and quick disconnect fittings as well. Was on the fence since it's such a new setup with no livestock. I guess more ammunition is better than less so I may just do it and stress less.
 

Mr. Mojo Rising

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What test kit are you using? API always shows .25.

IMO Hanna is the best tester for phosphate.
 

c4haskett

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I was a new reefer about 3 years ago. Still new but I've got on quick. Phosphates were my number 1 issue. I was obssessed with keeping them low, because that's what BRS says. I lost a lot of coral due to bottoming out my phosphates. Since then, I've learned to leave them for the most part. My phosphates fluctuate from about .05-.25. Get rid of the Hanna if you have one and don't consider it. They will read 5 different numbers using the same sample. I picked up salifert and haven't looked back. It doesnt give me the exact number hanna does but its consistent, reliable and readily available. I now just look for trends and not a specific number. Once I creep up to that .25 level I will change out my phosguard or do a water change. I would stay away from phosphate-e (unless you understand its danger) and GFO. Both strip phosphate way too fast IMO. Phosguard, Rowaphos and Algae are good at removing phosphates more slowly.
 
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richserpe

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I am using the API test kit. Every test is locked on .25. I'll try the Red Sea test kit and compare results.
 

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