Questions & Feedback on DIY HOB style sump

[dan0788]

Im working on building a diy behind the tank style sump modeled after the Oceanbox and CPR Aquafuge. This is currently going on a 20L until I can get my hands on a MrAqua/Aquamaxx style 22g long. This style sump will have an intake pump in the overflow and a gravity fed return.

The current measurements are 24” x 14.5” x 5” with three main chambers from right to left:

Skimmer 5”
Media racks 3.5” (followed by heater)
Fuge 13”

The total estimated volume is 6.5g if completely full. My biggest concerns/lack of knowledge is the overall water flow since this is my first sump.

1. What are the ideal heights for my baffles?
   
   
2. Should the last baffle be the same height as the “return” section baffle?
   
   
3. Should the hole for the return sit lower in the return section?
   
   
4. Does the height/depth of the teeth on the overflow effect the flow of the sump?
   
   
5. Is the overflow box the best place for an ATO sensor based on evaporation?
   

The intake pump has a 1/2” outlet and I was planning on using a 1” drain for the return.

Any other general advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Big G]

Bump

 

[samnaz]

Sorry I have no advice to offer on the subject but I'd just like to say I think the concept looks awesome!

 

[Peace River]

Hopefully others will also jump in, but I want to touch on one of the common themes that run through you questions - the height/length of baffles, overflow teeth, and hole placement. The height and space between the weir teeth are connected to flow rate as is the placement of the baffles and holes. Because this is your first sump and I'm assuming that you haven't done extensive flow calculations then I suggest that you make the weir, baffles, and possibly even the hole placement adjustable. This is an interesting project and you should learn a lot through the process (and hopefully you will share some of those lessons with us!) - good luck!

 

[jsker]

Back in the day, I made one like this

It worked well, the skimmer was useless and I end up making a skimmer that was independent of the filter. Instead of the bio balls I would suggest bio media of 50% live rock and 50% of a seeded bio media. the other modification I did was to have the return external and adjust the external pump with a gate valve. I would suggest using a DC pump for adjustability and make the chamber large enough to fit the DC. pump.

As far as baffles, it is really just balancing the over flow with the return amount.

I hope this helps

 

[BornHandy]

I am having a little trouble visualizing how it will flow. Can you add a picture that shows water levels, pump placements and possibly your intended flow pattern? I just finished a monster DIY sump, and had to make a few design changes. I may be able to save you a headache if you are about to make any of the mistakes I made.

 

[laverda]

Im working on building a diy behind the tank style sump modeled after the Oceanbox and CPR Aquafuge. This is currently going on a 20L until I can get my hands on a MrAqua/Aquamaxx style 22g long. This style sump will have an intake pump in the overflow and a gravity fed return.

The current measurements are 24” x 14.5” x 5” with three main chambers from right to left:

Skimmer 5”
Media racks 3.5” (followed by heater)
Fuge 13”

The total estimated volume is 6.5g if completely full. My biggest concerns/lack of knowledge is the overall water flow since this is my first sump.

1. What are the ideal heights for my baffles?
   
   
2. Should the last baffle be the same height as the “return” section baffle?
   
   
3. Should the hole for the return sit lower in the return section?
   
   
4. Does the height/depth of the teeth on the overflow effect the flow of the sump?
   
   
5. Is the overflow box the best place for an ATO sensor based on evaporation?

The intake pump has a 1/2” outlet and I was planning on using a 1” drain for the return.

Any other general advice would be greatly appreciated!

Your ato float will need to be in your display since your sump will be higher.
I would set the return to the tank up with a waterfall into the tank. That way it can not possably get clogged.
I would make the side against the tank, sides and bottom out of black acrylic and light it from behind if possible.

 

[kachymby]

Im working on building a diy behind the tank style sump modeled after the Oceanbox and CPR Aquafuge. This is currently going on a 20L until I can get my hands on a MrAqua/Aquamaxx style 22g long. This style sump will have an intake pump in the overflow and a gravity fed return.

The current measurements are 24” x 14.5” x 5” with three main chambers from right to left:

Skimmer 5”
Media racks 3.5” (followed by heater)
Fuge 13”

The total estimated volume is 6.5g if completely full. My biggest concerns/lack of knowledge is the overall water flow since this is my first sump.

1. What are the ideal heights for my baffles?
   
   
2. Should the last baffle be the same height as the “return” section baffle?
   
   
3. Should the hole for the return sit lower in the return section?
   
   
4. Does the height/depth of the teeth on the overflow effect the flow of the sump?
   
   
5. Is the overflow box the best place for an ATO sensor based on evaporation?

The intake pump has a 1/2” outlet and I was planning on using a 1” drain for the return.

Any other general advice would be greatly appreciated!

hello everyone from Florida, I have been looking for a similar idea to start my 36g tank. Could you tell me how you are going with the project if you finished it or what you did