REDSEA Algae Management NOPOX Usage?

[HaveFishWillTravel]

I have a relatively new REDSEA XL200 (50 gallons) w/EcoTech Vectra M2 Return Pump, Radion XR15 Gen5 Blue lights, Simplicity DC120, no Refugium, I use the Filter Sock and clean it religiously, use a Bio-Media Lava Rock to filter Nitrates. I have a Reef tank. 2 Old Blind Clownfish that I love dearly. They struggle with finding food and they seem to really respond to Reef Nutrition TDO Chroma Boost. I have tried Mysis, krill and other frozen varieties whole & chopped up, but they just won’t go for it. I feed them with a long syringe so it lands on the bare-bottom. I also have a Damsel who will eat almost anything, loves the pellets sinking from the top to the bottom and will eat up to 20 of them 4 times/week. All my water parameters are good. My tank was doing okay. No big algae or Nitrate issues. Then, I started drizzling Phytoplankton. My corals, Polyps and anemones were plump and thriving for weeks and weeks! It was almost overnight...on two of a certain type of rock, a short, dark green hair algae appeared. Now, I am freaking out! It was so good until it wasn’t good anymore.
I am considering using REDSEA NOPOX.
The questions I have are: where do I put the dosage...in the sump? Under what light conditions are best to do the dosage?
I have read a lot about the product and the reviews, but am quite nervous about moving forward. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The algae is currently limited to two rocks only. I don’t want it to spread. I have stopped the Phytoplankton for now.
I did a 12 gallon water change. All my equipment is clean and maintained.
Thanks much. JL
PS the bottom photo shows the dark green algae...Yikes! It’s on another rock behind it, but hasn’t spread yet.

 

[Spare time]

Only dose nopox if you can't control your nitrate and phosphate levels (particularly nitrate) with water changes or other methods. It requires a good skimmer (ever doser without the skimmer running properly).


What are your nitrate and phosphates at? Also, how old is the tank?

 

[HaveFishWillTravel]

Only dose nopox if you can't control your nitrate and phosphate levels (particularly nitrate) with water changes or other methods. It requires a good skimmer (ever doser without the skimmer running properly).


What are your nitrate and phosphates at? Also, how old is the tank?

Hi there, thank you for your comments/questions. I I feel relatively confident that I can control my Nitrates and Phosphates. That isn’t the issue so much.
I think I may have swung things out of balance by making the tank too nutrient rich with the Phytoplankton and this dark green hair algae has sprouted on a couple of rocks. I am in agreement that water changes are the way to go versus dosing with anything, if you want to maintain any type of consistency.
With the water changes, I would have to attempt to pick the hair algae off the rocks. I also saw where people have actually used hydrogen peroxide which seems pretty drastic. I don’t think I could do that even if I were to remove the corals from the rocks.
I started the tank in May 2020 and brought it fully online late July 2020.
So, it is a new tank.
Phosphates = 0.2 / Nitrates =< 4ppm
Something I don’t know is where
to put the stuff, if I am going to use it.
Thank you!

 

[Uptowngirl]

If you do use it, do it in the sump, make sure your slimmer is on. I think the instructions say in the sump or high flow area of the tank if I remember right

 

[HaveFishWillTravel]

If you do use it, do it in the sump, make sure your slimmer is on. I think the instructions say in the sump or high flow area of the tank if I remember right

I read the instructions and couldn’t find it anywhere, maybe I missed it. The sump or high flow makes the most sense.
If I put it into the return pump chamber, it will mix with about 3 gallons of water and will shoot up the pipe to the display tank. Some of it may get cycled through the skimmer and back around. If I put it directly into the display tank, it could hurt the corals if it doesn’t dissipate quickly or before the wave maker grabs it and pushes it at 40% intensity across the top of the rocks specifically where the algae is that I am trying to get rid of...
I have a Simplicity DC120. It seems to work well at least the cup fills with smelly sea funk that I have to clean every few days. I do have to check it a lot to make sure it is working correctly. I wonder if it has something to do with my wave maker settings? I have the wave maker on Forward: Intensity = 40%
10 minutes / Reverse: Intensity = 40% /
2 minutes. It is on that setting all day 24/7 except when it is in Feed Mode. Anyone else know why the protein skimmer changes and starts bubbling over? It really should be consistent. I don’t understand why it isn’t.
BTW, in the photo you see the GFO Phosphate reducer. It is not plugged in right now. The thing works great to lower Phosphates, but I don’t run it all the time and when I do, I keep it on a low setting.

 

[Spare time]

Hi there, thank you for your comments/questions. I I feel relatively confident that I can control my Nitrates and Phosphates. That isn’t the issue so much.
I think I may have swung things out of balance by making the tank too nutrient rich with the Phytoplankton and this dark green hair algae has sprouted on a couple of rocks. I am in agreement that water changes are the way to go versus dosing with anything, if you want to maintain any type of consistency.
With the water changes, I would have to attempt to pick the hair algae off the rocks. I also saw where people have actually used hydrogen peroxide which seems pretty drastic. I don’t think I could do that even if I were to remove the corals from the rocks.
I started the tank in May 2020 and brought it fully online late July 2020.
So, it is a new tank.
Phosphates = 0.2 / Nitrates =< 4ppm
Something I don’t know is where
to put the stuff, if I am going to use it.
Thank you!

Nopox is designed to lower nitrate (and phosphate but to a lesser extent) and you already have very little nitrate. I would not do nopox as you may get dinos or cyano if you go lower on nitrate. You have a lot of phosphates which is your problem. Try and use some GFO to correct the phosphates or some other phosphate only remover.

 

[HaveFishWillTravel]

Nopox is designed to lower nitrate (and phosphate but to a lesser extent) and you already have very little nitrate. I would not do nopox as you may get dinos or cyano if you go lower on nitrate. You have a lot of phosphates which is your problem. Try and use some GFO to correct the phosphates or some other phosphate only remover.

Not sure why you think Phosphates are the problem. Is it because of the type of Algae?
Phosphates at 0.1 to 0.2 is relatively low. You need some Phosphates, you don’t want to deplete the tank completely of Phosphates. Not sure if I understand. Again, it’s not the Nitrates, it’s the control of the algae that I want. I gotta figure out how to get that dark green hair algae off of those two rocks. I am guessing that just pulling it off and doing a water change is the way? I have seen where people say the NOPOX will make hair algae die and fall off. I haven’t put it in my tank yet. Still doing research. The algae hasn’t spread yet. Like I said previously, I am pretty sure the algae happened because of the Phytoplankton because it appeared shortly after I started drizzling small amounts into the tank. Help me to understand what you mean. Thanks!

 

[flampton]

The NoPox is not an algaecide. It's used to grow bacteria. It's vinegar and denatured alcohol.

So you add it, it grows bacteria and you skim out the bacteria. Thus I don't believe NoPox is going to help unless this is truly a nutrient issue.

 

[Spare time]

Not sure why you think Phosphates are the problem. Is it because of the type of Algae?
Phosphates at 0.1 to 0.2 is relatively low. You need some Phosphates, you don’t want to deplete the tank completely of Phosphates. Not sure if I understand. Again, it’s not the Nitrates, it’s the control of the algae that I want. I gotta figure out how to get that dark green hair algae off of those two rocks. I am guessing that just pulling it off and doing a water change is the way? I have seen where people say the NOPOX will make hair algae die and fall off. I haven’t put it in my tank yet. Still doing research. The algae hasn’t spread yet. Like I said previously, I am pretty sure the algae happened because of the Phytoplankton because it appeared shortly after I started drizzling small amounts into the tank. Help me to understand what you mean. Thanks!

0.2 is beyond what you need for corals and above 0.1 is when people tend to find algae issues. Nopox is carbon dosing. Carbon dosing had a great effect on nitrates, with some degree of effect on phosphates.


A simple solution is just a decent water change but phosphate media and such is good if its a recurring issue. If the issue was both nitrate AND phosphate then I would say nopox can be handy.

 

[HaveFishWillTravel]

0.2 is beyond what you need for corals and above 0.1 is when people tend to find algae issues. Nopox is carbon dosing. Carbon dosing had a great effect on nitrates, with some degree of effect on phosphates.


A simple solution is just a decent water change but phosphate media and such is good if its a recurring issue. If the issue was both nitrate AND phosphate then I would say nopox can be handy.

The GFO gizmo I have works really well to reduce Phosphates. I can leave it on for a week on full power and the Phosphates would be near 0.0. It’s more a matter of controlling them in such a small tank. They have been 0.2 since the tank started in July with no hairy algae issues. I kept them at 0.2 because of what I have read about good water parameters for Reef Aquariums and how people caution you to not reduce your nutrients too much. I will take your advice and knock my Phosphates back to 0.1, pick the algae off (one of the rocks can easily be taken out of the tank, the other one, not as easy, but not that tuff). Do a water change and see if my algae comes back. The problem I see is whether or not I can continue with the Phytoplankton. Phytoplankton has created amazing results in my corals. They have grown exponentially. Big, bright, beautiful, plump corals within a very short period of time.
I am drizzling twice/week 2ml in my 53 gallon tank (total = display + sump). I’ll check back and will let you know what transpires.
I really appreciate your ideas and hanging in there with me to understand what is going on with what I am doing.
What kind of a tank(s) do you have? How long have you been reefing? This is my 3rd reef aquarium. I have a bunch of freshwater tanks too. I have 39 fish and 4 aquariums. Keeps me busy!

 

[HaveFishWillTravel]

The NoPox is not an algaecide. It's used to grow bacteria. It's vinegar and denatured alcohol.

So you add it, it grows bacteria and you skim out the bacteria. Thus I don't believe NoPox is going to help unless this is truly a nutrient issue.

The name of the product is
“Algae Management”. I have attempted to answer this a few times now. Please read my previous posts, if you have the time.
I do not believe it is a Phosphate or Nitrate problem. I think it happened because of the Phytoplankton. I can manage my Phosphates and Nitrates. I am trying to figure out the best way to get rid of this algae. There are multiple ways to do it.
Just trying to figure out a way to get rid of it.
“Algae Management” sounds like it might be a way to get rid of it. I am not quite sure.

 

[flampton]

The name of the product is
“Algae Management”. I have attempted to answer this a few times now. Please read my previous posts, if you have the time.
I do not believe it is a Phosphate or Nitrate problem. I think it happened because of the Phytoplankton. I can manage my Phosphates and Nitrates. I am trying to figure out the best way to get rid of this algae. There are multiple ways to do it.
Just trying to figure out a way to get rid of it.
“Algae Management” sounds like it might be a way to get rid of it. I am not quite sure.

And like I said then it will have not the intended effect. I'm not sure what you're not understanding? I told you what it does exactly and you said the product says algae management. It manages algae by lowering nitrate and phosphate, by growing bacteria.

So sounds like you really want to use it. And you're looking for someone to tell you its alright. Well I give you permission then, lol

 

[SPR1968]

Your phosphates are very high at 0.2, ideally it should be less than 0.03 for various reasons, and you may find it’s actually higher and the algae is using it as a food source.

Your nitrates are fine, so I wouldn’t use Nopox yet, if at all. It’s very effective at nitrate reduction, but much less so on phosphate and raised phosphate causes most of the problem issues you will read about.

I use rowaphos 24/7 and heavy in both my systems and I would recommend using GFO to get your phosphate down and keep it there.

You will need to change the media regularly to start out when it becomes spent or it won’t work and it’s best in a reactor

 

[Spare time]

The GFO gizmo I have works really well to reduce Phosphates. I can leave it on for a week on full power and the Phosphates would be near 0.0. It’s more a matter of controlling them in such a small tank. They have been 0.2 since the tank started in July with no hairy algae issues. I kept them at 0.2 because of what I have read about good water parameters for Reef Aquariums and how people caution you to not reduce your nutrients too much. I will take your advice and knock my Phosphates back to 0.1, pick the algae off (one of the rocks can easily be taken out of the tank, the other one, not as easy, but not that tuff). Do a water change and see if my algae comes back. The problem I see is whether or not I can continue with the Phytoplankton. Phytoplankton has created amazing results in my corals. They have grown exponentially. Big, bright, beautiful, plump corals within a very short period of time.
I am drizzling twice/week 2ml in my 53 gallon tank (total = display + sump). I’ll check back and will let you know what transpires.
I really appreciate your ideas and hanging in there with me to understand what is going on with what I am doing.
What kind of a tank(s) do you have? How long have you been reefing? This is my 3rd reef aquarium. I have a bunch of freshwater tanks too. I have 39 fish and 4 aquariums. Keeps me busy!

Do you feed live phyto? If not you should try and make a culture! I will put a cup or so in my tank a few times a week.


I have a 75g with sump. I have had a 13.5, 29, 40, and 20, and this 75. I also have worked in 2 different lfs for a total of 3 years or so. I have been in the hobby for a little while. Oddly enough I never did freshwater.

 

[HaveFishWillTravel]

Do you feed live phyto? If not you should try and make a culture! I will put a cup or so in my tank a few times a week.


I have a 75g with sump. I have had a 13.5, 29, 40, and 20, and this 75. I also have worked in 2 different lfs for a total of 3 years or so. I have been in the hobby for a little while. Oddly enough I never did freshwater.

Cool, I think it would be pretty interesting to work at a LFS.
Curious about your water changes. When I first read about Phytoplankton, the person also talked about smaller water changes and his/her theory was why disturb/destroy a perfectly nutrient rich and stable water column with a drastic large water change. Another often proven theory of course for keeping Nitrates and Phosphates down is to do 30% - 40% water changes twice monthly. I had been doing 35% water changes routinely and my water parameters were always inconsistent, going up and down. I tried dosing with Seachem Reef1/ Reef2 (Ca & KH), but it was worse. My corals looked dismal. Finally, I left my tank alone for 6 weeks other than cleaning my skimmer, filter bag and sump (I like it tidy) and added the Phyto. Everything went gang busters. Then, the algae appeared. Based on our conversation, I did a fair amount of thinking, did a water test, did it twice, in fact with REDSEA test kits. My tank is yet again, in the tank...circling the drain.
I removed my GFO gizmo about a week ago in preparation for dosing with the NOPOX and sure enough, Phosphates had jumped from 0.1 to 0.4. Since my last water change on October 6th, my Nitrates jumped to 5ppm. Ca = 480 too high Mg =1500 too high, dKH = 8.4 too low. How much does that suck? I was so confused when I did the water change because Ca was 460ppm in the tank did a 10 - 12 gallon WC with REDSEA Coral Pro. I tested new water Ca = 480ppm.
After 24 hours, I tested the tank.
Ca = 410 - 430ppm (10-06-2020). How could it have been lower? I retested with same result. 10 days later (10-16-2020), it tested 480ppm. How does that happen. There is so much about this that I don’t understand.
This is my plan, pls let me know what you think:
-Hook up my GFO gizmo at 1/2 speed
~250 g/hour to reduce Phosphates.
-do a 35% WC w/REDSEA Coral Pro Salt (only aerate for 30 - 60 minutes.
-clean my sump, filter sock, skimmer, etc.
-scrub diatom algae off rocks
-scrub and pick as much of the dark green algae off of the two rocks.
-Salinity = 102.5
-Test water and test again in 24 hours.
-Do another 20% - 30% WC in a week if PO4 and NO3 are higher than 0.1 and 2ppm respectively.
-continue adding 3ml Phytoplankton twice weekly in high-flow area of display tank.
I need to somehow find a balance in the tank and quite honestly, in my life. I have 4 aquariums and I love them all, it’s just sometimes so stressful and incredibly time consuming. I have so much invested personally in the lives of these creatures.
I don’t feel as badly for the corals as I do for the freshwater fish I suppose except for the large corals that people grow and cut up for money. Kind of breaks my heart. Sorry to digress. I feel like the freshwater fish are trapped so I try my hardest to give them the very best life they can have. This is true...because 2 of my tanks are in the garage and the temperature is dropping, I have been setting alarms every two hours at night and getting up to check on the heaters and temps and filters to make sure everyone’s okay. A bit obsessed? Maybe LOL
Thank you again for your help. It really helped me think through things. JL

 

[HaveFishWillTravel]

And like I said then it will have not the intended effect. I'm not sure what you're not understanding? I told you what it does exactly and you said the product says algae management. It manages algae by lowering nitrate and phosphate, by growing bacteria.

So sounds like you really want to use it. And you're looking for someone to tell you its alright. Well I give you permission then, lol

You are probably right. I have been staring at this bottle for about two months. I decided to NOT use it after reading what you and ‘spare time’ had to say, I put a plan together, if you have time to read it and comment. I really appreciate the information and your feedback.
I learn something every time I access R2R. Pretty humbling. Thank you again. JL

And like I said then it will have not the intended effect. I'm not sure what you're not understanding? I told you what it does exactly and you said the product says algae management. It manages algae by lowering nitrate and phosphate, by growing bacteria.

So sounds like you really want to use it. And you're looking for someone to tell you its alright. Well I give you permission then, lol

 

[Spare time]

So I am thinking you mixed the water with salinity higher than 1.025 or so which would explain the magnesium and the calcium or your there is a test error (or you have a large margin of error on the test). As for the algae, you can just pick it off or get something to eat it. And for the phyto, try some live phyto like ocean magik or another brand. Live phyto won't impact phosphate as much as dead phyto (if at all).


When you were dosing, did the liquids hit the corals? Also, were you dosing small amounts at a time (no more than 1KH)?

 

[flampton]

I agree live phyto if possible. Other than that your plan looks good to me

 

[HaveFishWillTravel]

So I am thinking you mixed the water with salinity higher than 1.025 or so which would explain the magnesium and the calcium or your there is a test error (or you have a large margin of error on the test). As for the algae, you can just pick it off or get something to eat it. And for the phyto, try some live phyto like ocean magik or another brand. Live phyto won't impact phosphate as much as dead phyto (if at all).


When you were dosing, did the liquids hit the corals? Also, were you dosing small amounts at a time (no more than 1KH)?

Salinity = 102.5. I test the tank & the new water with my Hanna digital and my Refractometer to ensure there are no calibration issues. My Salinity is spot on. the REDSEA test kits are new as of this summer. I have used them and have used ELOS. Unless the first test in the tank was drastically off, don’t know what happened because I retested the water after the strange results. I could have messed up, no doubt. All it takes is not counting drops right or not seeing 9mm or 7mm to screw up. I try to be careful and I retest. I am really careful when I make saltwater. I use RO. Make the water in dedicated clean, wiped out garbage cans. Heat it to 68F, aerate and heat it to 78F. Continue to aerate, clean the tank, drain the tank with a small power head and refill the tank with a small power head.
I have never had the black bucket salt come out what it says for 34ppt on the bucket. I mix the dry salt with my hands first in the event it has settled. I follow their instructions scrupulously. I read a thread on R2R where the REDSEA Mg test is notorious for testing high so I have sort of ignored it and bought an ELOS Mg test kit. When you are talking about dosing, do you mean the R1/R2 or the Phyto? My tank is a almost a cube of water and the wave maker goes over the top and hits the front glass curves down and hits the front of the rocks incidentally, the two that have algae on them. Those two rocks are different than others in the tank. I have a bunch of troches and turbo snails like probably 10 of them right now and they are munching away, but not in the hair algae.
I put 3ml tank water into a 5ml syringe and add 2ml Phyto and add it it to the top when the wave maker is cycling forward/40% intensity/increased step wave. I think those are all of the questions ;-)

 

[Spare time]

With dosing I was referring to the seachem alk and calcium you were using.