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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Ranjib" data-source="post: 3532366" data-attributes="member: 67835">Part 2: Building the housingreef-pi controller housings that I have built till now, is intended to provide an enclosure for the electronics, electrical outlets/inlets and a display for dashboards. I am really a novice at wood work, but this is the best I could think of during the first build..First, calculate the minimum required dimension of housing. For my very first build, it was almost 1foot wide, 6" height, and 3" thick. I wanted ample place to play with different adapters & circuits inside. It was also due to 6 home electrical sockets, bolted in the bottom of the housing. Once you have the dimension sorted (you can go for much smaller housing if choose relay with less channel/ less electrical socket, as well as no display (they are 7" wide), cut the main sides. I choose to keep AC 100V outlets on bottom, BNC and 3.5 mm female connector mounted on right-bottom side. Couple of peristaltic pumps mounted on right-top side. Left side of the housing only has through hole, to pass the main AC input power supply. The front panel has only LCD screen mounted.All of the electrical sockets are screwed in straight on the plywood. BNC connector and 3.5 mm female audio is mounted directly, they have groves already, I used a tap/drill tool to create the holes.I used dremel rotary tool (3000) to cut out the spaces necessary to fit electrical outlets on the bottom, and peristaltic pumps on the right side.Raspberry pi and pca9685 board is screwed on the back side of the front panel, with stand-offs in between. I have a small breadboard which holds the MCP3008 & L293D ICs, which is hot glued straight next to the pca9645 board. Couple of DC power adapters (5V for pi, and 10V for LED light) are directly screwed in (or ziptied) inside the housing.Here are some reference images.Front view of the housing.[ATTACH=full]479878[/ATTACH]Electrical sockets in the bottom (6 of them)[ATTACH=full]479879[/ATTACH]These sockets come in pairs, with hot & neutral ends connected in every pair. I break the hot end junction so that each socket can be controlled independently (I am pretty sure there is an elegant solution for this).Wiring electrical sockets:[ATTACH=full]479882[/ATTACH]Peristaltic pumps & 3.5mm female audio jack on right side of the controller[ATTACH=full]479880[/ATTACH]Electronics, inside a fully functional reef-pi controller[ATTACH=full]479881[/ATTACH]Notice the two DC power adapters, one one top left corner, another right next to the peristaltic pumps (right side).Tools:- Soldering iron- Dremel saw and rotary tool (you can use anything you prefer to work with wood)- Plyer- Hot glue gun,- Tap/drill set (to fix BNC connector, 3.5 mm female audio jacks)[ATTACH=full]479883[/ATTACH]Bill of Materials- Plywood- <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/3299" target="_blank">standoffs</a>- <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DBNI0PE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">3.5 mm female audio jacks</a>-<a href="https://www.amazon.com/CESS-Female-Coaxial-Connector-Soldering/dp/B012EELQK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487230672&sr=8-1&keywords=female+bnc+mount+panel" target="_blank"> Female BNC connectors</a>- <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-W5320-T0W-Resistant-Receptacle-Grounding/dp/B002DQT5UK/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487230775&sr=1-3&keywords=electrical+socket" target="_blank">AC 110V Electrical sockets</a>- 14 gauge wires (green, black, white ) for AC 110V electrical sockets- 16/18 gauge wires for DC 5v, 10v PWM (LED control, DC pump control)- 20 gauge wires to connect sensors with MCP2008 (BNC connectors based sensors)</blockquote>

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