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***ScottR’s RS 500P Build***

ScottR

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FTS as of September 6th, 2020. One month in. Still going through the uglies. Wishing I hadn’t gone sand to be honest. I do miss my BB. Original build below.

80E2FF7C-7F68-4098-89F1-36D086382FEE.jpeg

Background: I have a 40 and 27g. Decided to consolidate them as it took away too much time between both tanks.

The Red Sea Reefer Peninsula 500 was a bit too big for my liking as I live in a small apartment in Hong Kong. But I know the rule of thumb: when you go small, you always want to go big

So 130 gallons it is.

Equipment:
Orphek V4 Atlantik LEDs
Jebao 12000 return
2 Maxspect XF250 gyres
Aqua Excel skimmer (have it laying around. I’ll see how good it is)
Vertex RODI system for water

Will update other equipment later.

Tank is cycling now. The nitrogen cycle is easy imo. Filled with salt and RODI. Put in existing live rock I had and added 2 chromis 2 days later. I’ve been dosing MicroBacter7 daily. Fish are doing well after 4 days in. I placed one of my dendros in as well as a test for the water. If the dendro can’t live, nothing can. Using a T5 at the moment as I don’t have the Orphek V4 bracket yet. I prefer to put lights on in early to help photosynthetic organisms take hold and help the uglies stage along earlier. IMO, the uglies and algae will start anyway once you turn the lights on. Why not tackle them earlier while less stocked?

Decided to go half sand/half bb. I prefer BB but it does limit what types of livestock you can keep.

I’ll try to update as I go along. I’ll be transferring over all of my mixed reef and fish from the 40g after I’m certain the parameters are stable and the tank is ready for SPS.

0761ED22-EFF7-4E72-ACEF-1873C6A23F9B.jpeg 57709C0F-FC34-4CA0-9607-374AB4397A64.jpeg
 
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ScottR

ScottR

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ScottR

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I got some Tonga branch to try my hand at making some scape. Used cyanoacrylate glue and AF Stone Fix. Wanted to make something that will house fish and some encrusting-type corals. I currently have leptoseris, cyphastrea and zoas that could win the bid.

The idea for the tank is to go low profile and let the SPS grow upwards and create the ultimate scape.

D343A875-B8D5-44AE-927B-1A299550A24F.jpeg 0A9DEC95-FA07-4584-B0C4-D2025CDE7D36.jpeg
 
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ScottR

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One thing I’d like to add is, I saw Ryan from BRS add MB7 (the newer one) directly to his rocks before putting in water. So I did the same. Dropped lots of MB7 onto the Tonga branch structure before adding in. If I notice any successes or fails, I will update.
 
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nice tank! I have the RS650P setting at the not so local fish store waiting for me to finish up the reno on the new house. should get it this week.

I have always liked the tonga branch to bad it so hard to find these days.
That’s a nice tank. My good friend @ylreefer set one up and it’s a beauty.
 
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Interesting idea with the half sand and half bb but I think that will be tough to do long term. I wish I could find a couple of pieces of branch rock...
Half BB is just an idea to play with. I’m surprised that with 2 gyres its stayed like that. But once I stock it and start cleaning, I’m sure I’ll end up with a full sand bed.
 
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My 40g is going on 2 years now. I’m so happy to break it down. It’s been too hard to maintain as it’s fully stocked and houses 7 fish that have started to outgrow the tank. It’s been through every battle possible and has been very stable so I hope to continue my success with the new tank by adding everything in once stable.

Tank to be broken down:

543FABA6-559E-4B3D-8375-583C4DCD1BA5.jpeg
 

ylreefer

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nice tank! I have the RS650P setting at the not so local fish store waiting for me to finish up the reno on the new house. should get it this week.

I have always liked the tonga branch to bad it so hard to find these days.
just a word of advice on the 650P. The cabinet that is designed for the chiller I wouldn't recommend using for the chiller. Especially if you intend to use the peninsular as a peninsular.ie room devider. I found that due to the end of the cabinet being only a few inches away from the wall, the heat from the chiller would just reflect off the wall and get sucked back into the cabinet from the hole that is designed for electrical wiring. (the top cut out). And in turn would just reheat the air around the chiller in turn activating the chiller much more often than it was required. Obviously this isn't good for the chiller, but I definitely noticed it on the electricity bill to. You could modify the cabinet door or rear side and fit a vent, but in my opinion that won't help much, and certainly won't remove any heat from the room. Which is an absolute nightmare if your geographic gets warm in summer.

I've since move the chiller away from the tank and placed it so that the rear directs out of a window. Admittedly this took some plumbing that may not be possible for a lot of us to do. But without a doubt the best thing I've don't for the tank so far.

And as that cabinet was now free that allowed me to install an ATO, which in turn is more reliable, and makes changing the filter cups out so much more easy that I do them way more often. Its just so much better having that open sump. I'll post a few pics so you can see what that looks like.

Anyway hopefully this will help. I know it's have loved to have this information before I got my 650

20200701_203754.jpg 20200522_173714.jpg 20200704_133938.jpg
 
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ScottR

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just a word of advice on the 650P. The cabinet that is designed for the chiller I wouldn't recommend using for the chiller. Especially if you intend to use the peninsular as a peninsular.ie room devider. I found that due to the end of the cabinet being only a few inches away from the wall, the heat from the chiller would just reflect off the wall and get sucked back into the cabinet from the hole that is designed for electrical wiring. (the top cut out). And in turn would just reheat the air around the chiller in turn activating the chiller much more often than it was required. Obviously this isn't good for the chiller, but I definitely noticed it on the electricity bill to. You could modify the cabinet door or rear side and fit a vent, but in my opinion that won't help much, and certainly won't remove any heat from the room. Which is an absolute nightmare if your geographic gets warm in summer.

I've since move the chiller away from the tank and placed it so that the rear directs out of a window. Admittedly this took some plumbing that may not be possible for a lot of us to do. But without a doubt the best thing I've don't for the tank so far.

And as that cabinet was now free that allowed me to install an ATO, which in turn is more reliable, and makes changing the filter cups out so much more easy that I do them way more often. Its just so much better having that open sump. I'll post a few pics so you can see what that looks like.

Anyway hopefully this will help. I know it's have loved to have this information before I got my 650

20200701_203754.jpg 20200522_173714.jpg 20200704_133938.jpg
Nice Ed. Can’t wait to come see it in person. I know you have some free frags waiting for my new tank ;)
 

Devaji

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just a word of advice on the 650P. The cabinet that is designed for the chiller I wouldn't recommend using for the chiller. Especially if you intend to use the peninsular as a peninsular.ie room devider. I found that due to the end of the cabinet being only a few inches away from the wall, the heat from the chiller would just reflect off the wall and get sucked back into the cabinet from the hole that is designed for electrical wiring. (the top cut out). And in turn would just reheat the air around the chiller in turn activating the chiller much more often than it was required. Obviously this isn't good for the chiller, but I definitely noticed it on the electricity bill to. You could modify the cabinet door or rear side and fit a vent, but in my opinion that won't help much, and certainly won't remove any heat from the room. Which is an absolute nightmare if your geographic gets warm in summer.

I've since move the chiller away from the tank and placed it so that the rear directs out of a window. Admittedly this took some plumbing that may not be possible for a lot of us to do. But without a doubt the best thing I've don't for the tank so far.

And as that cabinet was now free that allowed me to install an ATO, which in turn is more reliable, and makes changing the filter cups out so much more easy that I do them way more often. Its just so much better having that open sump. I'll post a few pics so you can see what that looks like.

Anyway hopefully this will help. I know it's have loved to have this information before I got my 650

20200701_203754.jpg 20200522_173714.jpg 20200704_133938.jpg
that for the heads up. no chiller planed. I will have a basement "fish room" where my AWC and ATO container will be so the electronic cabient will be just for apex gear.

on a side note is the the ice cap ATS? big ATS fan here...

OP sorry to hijack your thread...
 
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ScottR

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A long time. No updates as not much happened. Added some chromis and a coral banded shrimp. Also a saron from one of my other tanks. My dendro did not look happy in the tank. Possibly because of the bacterial bloom (oxygen deprivation from bacteria?). Added back to other tank and it immediately came alive. That was a couple of weeks ago. In went some rhodactis from my other tank. So far so good.

Also, finally mounted my Orphek V4. Pretty pleased with this light so far. It’s pretty bright (78 LEDs!!! What should I expect!?) can’t wait to test the PAR. I’m a couple of weeks from transferring corals over. I’m afraid at this point that my SPS may not be happy in such a new tank. Will move over easier SPS like pocillopora and monti digi first to test.

15997528-9F06-4F85-A596-5B3B2BFE49BD.jpeg 2A897C4D-C652-4C06-A47C-DCE66AD8C0BE.jpeg
 

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