Seahorse lovers plz help

Mrfresh · Jul 7, 2013

I have already read the sticky abut seahorses and still have a few questions.
This will be somewhat long sry

I have gotten the ok from my wife to set up another tank.
I really wanted to do some much, frag tank, fowlr, seahorse tank, clown tank ect.
So this is what's going to happen. I will be doing a seahorse frag tank.

What I need to figure out:
Flow rate
Tank turn over speed
Rock/sand work

I have a standard 60 gallon tank that I am going to drill an overflow and a return from the bottom.
Sump will be a 40 gallon breeder. I have a scw skimmer rated for 180gallon tank
will do a fug in the sump as well for podes ( I need that live food )
*Return pump? I was thinking about doing a maxi-jet 1200.
My reason behind this is for a low turn over rate, but I will have flow inside the tank from one powerhead.
For in tank flow I will be going with a jeabo wp-25
I want to seahorse to have flow but not to much to where they don't try to swim they are just holding on for dear life.
I will only be doing zoas and chalices in my frag/seahorse tank...
There will be Sand, I want it to be fine gran but not sugar fine
Rock work I need help I know they need places to wrap there tails and with it being a frag/grow out tank I'm not trying to pack the tank with rock.
* what can I add that will allow the seahorses to have something to hold on to but still look good?
Lighting...are seahorses sensative to lighting.
With it mainly being zoas and chalices I will run t-5 light. I plan on doing 2blue bulbs most of the day and for 4 hours strong whites on as well.
I think that's everything for now.

Recap.
Should I run a strong return pump or can I just use a maxi-jet 1200?
Should I use a wave maker pump in the tank?
What can I use for the horses to hold on to.
Does sand type matter?
Are they light sensative?

And any other things I overlooks that I should address please toss me some info.

Thank you

Sassy Jenny · Jul 7, 2013

Low to mod light. VERY LOW FLOW. No more than one inch sand bed. Lots of stuff for them to hang on to. I don't think I would use it as a frag tank. They don't like to be disturbed, and disruptions will stress them out. They will not chase their food. They love mysis shrimp. you need to feed them two to three times a day, very gentle. You don't really need to put any other fish in the tank with them, because they may starve to death(as they are slow to eat). As for what to hold on to...the macro algee or branch rocks will do. Hope this helps. Oh yes, one more thing, you must stay on top of your water changes. They have to have very stable water conditions.

Mrfresh · Jul 7, 2013

I am thinking about using mangroves for them to hold on to and it will help clean the water.
The jeabo will be nice because I can set it to a low pulse for a shuttle sway back and forth nothing turblient.
I won't be sticking my hand in there to foster just to place corals in the beginning and just letting them grow into be colonies.
I work from home so feeding them three times a day in not a problem
No other fish will be in the tank
I do water changes two times a week on my 90 gallon reef so water changes aren't an issue

Why do u say less then one inch of sand?
I was thinking about going 6inches to have the mangroves to berry in.

reid429 · Jul 7, 2013

The jebao will still be too powerful even on low for that tank.

808jaymakoa · Jul 7, 2013

reid429 said:
The jebao will still be too powerful even on low for that tank.

+1 I have one in my tank and even low is still real powerfull

WatercolorsGuy · Jul 7, 2013

Low flow/low light for main tank for sea horses and use the sump as a frag tank.

jamey1010 · Jul 7, 2013

There's a good chance the seahorses will get sucked right to the side of that style pump and not make it.. I couldn't even use the smallest koraila nano with new small seahorses and they will try and go hold onto it.

You can just get creative for things for them to hold onto I seen some people use cool colored zip ties.

Make sure the rock you use is clean of pest such as Bristol worms cause the seahorses can be harmed by them and no stinging corals either.

There a little tricky at first but I've had a nice trio for over a year now doing great I'm actually about to add a male to see if I can get some babies and start that adventure.

I feed mine twice a day Mysis and/or brine shimp, and regular 15% weekly water changes

gar732 · Jul 7, 2013

Another thing you should consider is that sea horses need to have cooler water to keep from getting bacterial infections. You're going to want your water at least 74 degrees. And I agree with everyone on the wp25.

SeahorseKeeper · Jul 7, 2013

OK, I want to clarify a couple of things about seahorses.

Seahorses like some flow. Here is a video:https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/seahorse-pipefish/101563-seahorses-do-like-flow-video.html. The key is to have areas of low flow for them to retreat from. You need to be very careful with the power head selection. Seahorses will hitch on the power heads so it is best to cover them with mesh. This includes the front of the power head. The seahorse's tail can get chopped off due to the power head propeller. This can be fatal to them. I am currently running an MP10 with a mesh sock covering and two open ended airline tubes hooked to an air pump. The seahorses play in the bubbles. Also, I often find my seahorses riding the current for the output of the canister filter. They swim up to the output and hold themselves in front of it and then allow themselves to be carried by the current. They love the flow. I do not have the WP25, but I agree with everyone that it may be too much. I have my MP10 on a low setting and it gives me perfect flow.

As far as eating, seahorses LOVE to hunt all day for food. In the wild, they graze frequently. The reason for this is that they lack a true stomach and just have a feeding tube. If they do not get enough nutrients, they will begin to absorb their internal organs. My seahorses hunt for amphipods all day long. They also get fed mysis twice a day. You can train them to eat from a feeding dish or broadcast feed which allows them to hunt. They are slow eaters and this is why you want to choose tank mates that are not aggressive with their eating habits. My seahorses love their mysis and will snick the food from the mouths of the fish in my tank. Neat fact: I know when my seahorses are eating from the sound they make when they snick their food. The sound can be quite loud considering their size.

The hitches can be anything the seahorse can wrap its tail around. I like to use macroalgae. This will help with the nutrient export since seahorses need frequent feedings and are messy eaters. If you use fake hitches, just make sure they are smooth. Seahorses are scaleless fish and get injured easily.

I agree with the statements on bristle worms and the cooler temps.

Mrfresh · Jul 7, 2013

I have a wp40 in my 90 and on its low setting its low, so I am sure the wp25 will do fine in a 4 ft long tank.
Also I would point it upwards to give in a nice surface break and the bottom of the tank would be low flow.
I have some mesh that I put carbon in that I will be putting over the powerhead so they do not latch on.

I plan on getting tiger pods and putting them in the main tank and giving them a month or two to take over.
I have them in my fug in my sump and they are great. They have been in there for over 6 months so I know they are reproducing.
Side note. I'm my fug I have baby cleaner shrimp cabby fire shrimp tiger pods and cope pods. So I will take a lot of the algae an there put it in my seahorse tank give it a few days in there, shake it out and put it back into my fug. That should give it a nice kick start for little critter life

Keeping the temp that low wont bother me. Corals can adapt with time.
I keep my apt cold so the temp staying low wont be an issue.
And if anything I have a small chiller I can use...

Thank you seahorse keeper and jamey1010 for addressing the issues and having problem solver answers.

SeahorseKeeper · Jul 7, 2013

Oh, I just realized that I did not address the lighting. IME, seahorses are not sensitive to lighting. They come from shallow environments and are exposed to somewhat intense light in their natural environment. I don't think you will have to worry about that with the setup you have planned.

It sounds like you really have thought about your setup. Good luck with the build and keep us posted!