Slight green algea problem....need help

uscstaylor

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Hey Guys,
I had some Phospate levels that I wanted to get down because of the green algea on my LR, and for the most part it worked. I added a duel reactor with GFO and Carbon, now my levels dropped to .25 but I still get green algea on my LR but not as fast or as much. I want to add a 150 bio pellet reactor with bio pellets, will that help me and is it worth it. I here good and bad things about it. Let me know what you guys do. I also keep my lights on from 10am to 8pm in 3 different stages. Day, late day, and night T5 bulbs. Any help or feedback would be great.


Also my friend has a 90 gal SW with LR only tank and he never changes his water, ever unless he has a sick fish, I thought you were suppose to do W/C's every 10-14 days.. I am stumped by this...Any feedback on this would be great as well.
 

rworegon

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.25 is still quite high for phosphates. Mine were at .35 and are still above .10 but coming down. How did you test your level? Remember also that what ever you test your levels are likely higher as the algae is consuming phosphates as well. How long has your GFO been running?
 

mike007

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You might check your source water to make sure no phosphates are present. And yes every two weeks about a 10% water change is good. Also most algae problems are caused by excess nutrients wheter that be from phosphates, nitrates or most common cause is overfeeding. You might want to consider carbon dosing it is quiet simple and works great.
 
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uscstaylor

uscstaylor

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I test my water levels 2-3 a week and I believe my algae problem is due to my lights maybe they are too close to the water or their left on to long, but that's why I'm asking this question how do I get rid of the green algae. I have a phosphate kit from API that I use.
 
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uscstaylor

uscstaylor

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I feed my fish 2 times a day with new era flake or pellets or frozen mystis shrimp. But just a pinch each time.
 
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uscstaylor

uscstaylor

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I use RODI water for my source water that's stored in a 35 gallon brute plastic container...I am wondering now what it could possibly be....
 

rworegon

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GFO has been running about a month but I change it every 2 weeks with carbon.

I would see if you could find someone close to you with a Hanna Phosphate Checker and have them test it. Or get one for yourself. Its the best $40 bucks you will ever spend. I would doubt that your Phosphates are that high if you have been running GFO for a month straight. To get rid of the algae that is already there manual removal is tedious but pretty effective. Red leg hermits will eat it if they have nothing else, lawnmower blenny, sea hare, some tangs.

How old are your bulbs? What type are they? T-5, Halides, LED? How long is your photo period? You could try to lessen your photo period but old lights are a common cause along with excess nutrients.
 

Reefing Madness

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You want those phosphates down under .05. If they are there, then your liable to just keep having troubles. Lights aren't old enough yet to be causing you issues. Nitrates and Phosphates will be you rmain culprit from the sounds of it. Quick cure would be for you to kill your lights for 3 days. That'll take care of the algae in question, but it will return if theres a fuel source.
Your buddy running a Sump? With a Ton of Macro Algae in it? Or is he Carbon Dosing? Or runnin a Denitrator? I only change my water every 6 months, I Vodka Dose. And add what my tank needs.
 
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uscstaylor

uscstaylor

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Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll have to ask my friend about his tank and see if he's vodka dosing or not. I know he don't have a refugium in his sump he told me that. I'll check my RODI water to see what the phosphate levels are.
 
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uscstaylor

uscstaylor

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Since my last post I've added more GFO and phosguard to my tank, Man what a difference it made the tank a lot more clear and algae's almost gone. Just ordered Hanna checker to see what my levels are.
 

Alabamareef

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Your gonna love the Hanna po4 checker. The only issue I had with mine is when your mixing the reagent keep track of your time it turns off after 3 min.
 

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