SPS Browning and Bleaching

terraincognita

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 13, 2020
Messages
1,328
Reaction score
1,657
Location
Los Angeles
bleaching is the same as dying.

they can lose coloration and bleach while still retaining polyp tissue from

1. Temp swings (do you have a temp controller on the tank?)

2. suddenly too much light.

3. too little light.

what happens when they “bleach” is the zooxanthelle dies, while the coral remains alive. However the coral cannot live long without its zoo so then RTN sets in.

that’s a really basic and ****** explanation but so you understand what bleaching is.
 
AS
Fritz
OP
P

prcardinal91

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 26, 2021
Messages
25
Reaction score
4
Location
07826
Here is my plan moving forward to try and remedy this:

ICP test
Metal Clamps are removed
Ordered a temp controller - currently have 2 eheim 150ws running in tandem
Slowly Increase lighting intensity to 300 par at the top of the rock structures
Continue 15% weekly water changes and dosing AB+ daily

Anyone suggest carbon dosing?
 

homer1475

Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
View Badges
Joined
Apr 24, 2018
Messages
5,986
Reaction score
8,937
Location
Way upstate NY
Why on earth would he want to start carbon dosing with 20 nitrate and 0.04 phosphate?

I would go with low par on the rack which starts the bleaching, then when moved to the rocks it exacerbated the issue as the coral was already stressed, hen you moved them back to the low par rack.
 

homer1475

Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
View Badges
Joined
Apr 24, 2018
Messages
5,986
Reaction score
8,937
Location
Way upstate NY
Flexing??

That was just me getting off the couch
JK

How high are your lights mounted?

This is me warming up
E230F7A2-14A7-41CA-94D9-839BCE1AB241.jpeg 5A254F44-CC1C-49E9-99B4-FA41DC4EC3C8.jpeg 71F93C88-9818-47AD-9E45-E12CB2885414.jpeg 9A55BD9F-F02E-42D8-96F0-EFEE1924BE39.jpeg 580B2B1F-00A4-45E1-B100-3EB485D82230.jpeg 08DE6B5B-9FEE-4153-9DA8-57121F9A3121.jpeg 0AB1484D-92E9-4FC9-9750-1C7C416B42C5.jpeg 57C68044-7F9C-498E-A34A-D0449E28ED2C.jpeg 59DF512B-4BE9-4B80-B580-343FF00C53C6.jpeg 2ADC03EC-36B7-40A4-810B-9F934FC822BE.jpeg D58CF018-D75D-4454-A439-B51A2C4BB484.jpeg
All I see is a whole lot of green. Might want to brush up on how to keep SPS colored up(jk of course).
 

ScottB

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 5, 2018
Messages
4,635
Reaction score
6,953
Location
Fairfield County, CT
Here is my plan moving forward to try and remedy this:

ICP test
Metal Clamps are removed
Ordered a temp controller - currently have 2 eheim 150ws running in tandem
Slowly Increase lighting intensity to 300 par at the top of the rock structures
Continue 15% weekly water changes and dosing AB+ daily

Anyone suggest carbon dosing?
Good plan. No need to carbon dose really. If the NO3 creeps much higher you could increase the WC amount to knock it back.

I think you wrote that your tests are all Red Sea. I would not trust RS for testing phosphates, only Hanna ULR. Unless you feed often and a lot, target range for PO4 .07 to .14 should be good.

Your ICP will likely come back very low on PO4; don't be too alarmed as the phosphate concentration declines during transit. But do get a Hanna ULR phosphate (or phosphorus) checker. A must have tool.
 
Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED lighting

sculpin01

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 20, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
63
Location
Greenville
Maybe run some carbon (ROX 0.8 would be my choice) and cuprisorb. I absolutely would not carbon dose. Stainless steel comes in many different flavors but could be potentially leaching chromium (the primary reason it's "stainless") into the water. In ancient times when we first kept corals, we would bleach corals regularly with 400 watt halides and primitive techniques. They didn't slough tissue like yours are.

BTW, the treatment for bleaching was to put the coral in low light and it would recover its zooxanthellae nine times out of ten. I start almost all of my new frags at 100-150 PAR (supposedly too low for SPS) for a month to allow them to acclimate. Most are completely happy right there. After a month at 100-150 PAR, they generally tolerate being moved to wherever. Please don't change too many things at once in your tank. Doing so will cause havoc with the corals that are currently alive.

Also, don't worry about black box lights. They work just fine. I run two black boxes and three homemade LEDs on my 65 and it looks like this:

IMG_4217.jpeg
 

Are your corals ever subjected to the open air with no water for water changes or tank maintenance?

  • Yes and I wish I had planned my aquascape better

    Votes: 29 11.1%
  • Yes even though I planned my aquascape for the possibilty

    Votes: 77 29.5%
  • No as I planned for this not to happen

    Votes: 64 24.5%
  • No not yet and I haven't planned for it

    Votes: 72 27.6%
  • Other (please explain in the thread)

    Votes: 19 7.3%
Kessil
Top