Stability
- Nano Build
- Thread starter CarChase
- Start date
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That size tank, get an auto top off of some sort. I acutally put a sump on my 40g and 20g and use a plain old gravity top off. I use the same on my 210g. Water changes are necessary in that water volume. Haveing the right balance of rock to livestock is also very important. It needs a good balance to work well. It takes time to build and find that balance. I have a 6g that has been running almost 5 years with only one issue (heater broke and heated up to 96. Lost that one, but other than that, I keep it toppoed off, balanced with lots of rock, and regular water changes.
If algae gets too bad, I actually have another 6g that I transfer everything to and use new water. Then I clean the other one to switch as needed.
On my 40g, I will removed everything into tubs, clean it thoroughly to remove algae on glass, bottom, etc. Change the water (sometimes 100%) and put it all back in. No issues. I do however have rock in the sump to help filtration along with a protein skimmer and a UAS.
Smaller tanks can be a handful to keep stable, but easy to clean. Time is the biggest helper of stability. Let the reef mature.
If algae gets too bad, I actually have another 6g that I transfer everything to and use new water. Then I clean the other one to switch as needed.
On my 40g, I will removed everything into tubs, clean it thoroughly to remove algae on glass, bottom, etc. Change the water (sometimes 100%) and put it all back in. No issues. I do however have rock in the sump to help filtration along with a protein skimmer and a UAS.
Smaller tanks can be a handful to keep stable, but easy to clean. Time is the biggest helper of stability. Let the reef mature.
I have a larger system and have not dealt with a nano myself. More details might improve the replies you get from folks:
What livestock do you have in the tank?
What equipment & water change regime do you use to handle stability?
What livestock do you have in the tank?
What equipment & water change regime do you use to handle stability?
CarChase
Active Member
That size tank, get an auto top off of some sort. I acutally put a sump on my 40g and 20g and use a plain old gravity top off. I use the same on my 210g. Water changes are necessary in that water volume. Haveing the right balance of rock to livestock is also very important. It needs a good balance to work well. It takes time to build and find that balance. I have a 6g that has been running almost 5 years with only one issue (heater broke and heated up to 96. Lost that one, but other than that, I keep it toppoed off, balanced with lots of rock, and regular water changes.
If algae gets too bad, I actually have another 6g that I transfer everything to and use new water. Then I clean the other one to switch as needed.
On my 40g, I will removed everything into tubs, clean it thoroughly to remove algae on glass, bottom, etc. Change the water (sometimes 100%) and put it all back in. No issues. I do however have rock in the sump to help filtration along with a protein skimmer and a UAS.
Smaller tanks can be a handful to keep stable, but easy to clean. Time is the biggest helper of stability. Let the reef mature
How long before you would consider a tank mature? My tank is almost 15 month old
MAturity depends on the animals, the maintenance and balance. Honestly, some can be mature in months if used everything from a mature system (I have done this in picos), some take years to find a good balance.
No good answer there. Sorry.
What do you have in your tank? Animals, rock, sand, lights, filters? Also, what is your maintenance?
No good answer there. Sorry.
What do you have in your tank? Animals, rock, sand, lights, filters? Also, what is your maintenance?
ccombs
Valuable Member
As much as I wish a piece of gear could have all of the answers, it doesn't haha.
I would recommend sticking with keeping basic parameters stable as stated. An ATO is a great idea, and I really like the Cobalt heaters as they are more likely to fail in the off position. I have 2 of them in my tank (albeit, connected to an APEX) BUT! this will help you as well.
Small reefs are hard because it doesn't take much to throw things out of balance. So here is what I think you should look in to.
1) Stable Salinity-Use and ATO
2) Stable Temp-Heaters that fail off and a backup
3) Stable Lights-This doesn't have to be expensive, just well built and a consistent schedule
4) Distributed Flow-Instead of having one big source of flow, consider multiple smaller ones to cover the tank effectively
5) Stable Maintenance-Good WC schedule/testing
Last but not least... time. I have a small tank like you and it is a ton of work, but it is amazing to have something stunning, even though it isn't a 'big boy' reef. I am not there yet, but I am working towards stunning.
I would recommend sticking with keeping basic parameters stable as stated. An ATO is a great idea, and I really like the Cobalt heaters as they are more likely to fail in the off position. I have 2 of them in my tank (albeit, connected to an APEX) BUT! this will help you as well.
Small reefs are hard because it doesn't take much to throw things out of balance. So here is what I think you should look in to.
1) Stable Salinity-Use and ATO
2) Stable Temp-Heaters that fail off and a backup
3) Stable Lights-This doesn't have to be expensive, just well built and a consistent schedule
4) Distributed Flow-Instead of having one big source of flow, consider multiple smaller ones to cover the tank effectively
5) Stable Maintenance-Good WC schedule/testing
Last but not least... time. I have a small tank like you and it is a ton of work, but it is amazing to have something stunning, even though it isn't a 'big boy' reef. I am not there yet, but I am working towards stunning.
CarChase
Active Member
My no3 and no4 levels are consistsntly at or near zero. Running GFO, carbon, and a small HOB refugium. HoB skimmer / filter ( coral life)Water change 10% per week. Recently been doing water changes twice a week.
Alk 8.5-9
Calc 430
PH 8.0
30 gallon tank, no sump, 3 fish, 1 Halloween hermit, 1 pin cushion urchin, 1 astrea snail, 1 sea hare.
I have 3 acans, GSP, hammer, micro torch, 3 Types of leptos, 2 montis, mushrooms, Rasta zoas, misc other zoas , 2 favities.
CarChase
Active Member
I incorrectly stated that I do water changes twice a month, I am doing them twice a week. I have one HOB filter with carbon , GFO, filter pads(changed twice per week).
The rock is used was some old lie rock. I saved and a few pieces of real live rock. Used a mix of dry sand and Carib sea live sand.
I recently upgraded from one AI prime to two. Also have one t5 fixture.
Nice!
If your coral colors are not good they might like more nitrate and phosphate?
The 10% WC / week should keep up with your micronutrient levels ok based upon the critters you have.
I test before I do my WC and add stuff (Mg, baking soda for Alk) to keep my parameters where they need to be.
+1 ATO, good heater, timed light period.
If your coral colors are not good they might like more nitrate and phosphate?
The 10% WC / week should keep up with your micronutrient levels ok based upon the critters you have.
I test before I do my WC and add stuff (Mg, baking soda for Alk) to keep my parameters where they need to be.
+1 ATO, good heater, timed light period.
CarChase
Active Member
Thanks for the advice. I just got the Tunze Ato last night. Going to set it up this weekend. I’ve been keeping no3 and no4 low bc I’m also battling some type of hair algae.
Here a pic of the tank.
Here a pic of the tank.
I would say that you need some more nutrients in the tank for the corals to really color up. Keep an eye on that sea hare. It may starve in such a small system once it cleans the hair algae. Maybe trade with fellow reefer to keep him happy.
I have never worked with the LEDs, so not sure if lights are an issue. Someone with more experience there will chime in if they think that is off.
Cut water change to 1/wk to let some nutrients build and the bacteria to grow a bit more. Without a ton of corals, you will not be using up too much in the way of trace elements. As you add more corals, may need more frequent water changes.
I have never worked with the LEDs, so not sure if lights are an issue. Someone with more experience there will chime in if they think that is off.
Cut water change to 1/wk to let some nutrients build and the bacteria to grow a bit more. Without a ton of corals, you will not be using up too much in the way of trace elements. As you add more corals, may need more frequent water changes.
I currently have a 10g thats been rather stable since its been up and running. I use a Tunze ATO to keep the salinity stable and test the water parameters twice per week. If I see Nitrates and phosphates higher than usual I will do a 1 gal water change. If everything stays stable, I stick to a weekly water change schedule to keep calcium and alk maintained since my tank has a lot of LPS.
No sump or skimmer. HOB power filter with rubble rock in the bottom for extra bio-filtration along with my live rock and sand. I run carbon to polish the water a bit but may stop using it and see how the corals react.
I feel knowing your tanks chemistry and how it changes is key to keeping it stable. Having a plan for when things change is essential.
No sump or skimmer. HOB power filter with rubble rock in the bottom for extra bio-filtration along with my live rock and sand. I run carbon to polish the water a bit but may stop using it and see how the corals react.
I feel knowing your tanks chemistry and how it changes is key to keeping it stable. Having a plan for when things change is essential.
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