To sump, or not to sump: Starting a saltwater aquarium
Throughout the history of man we've looked to our bodies of water for substanance, inpiration, wonder and peace of mind. For the last several hundred years civilizations have found a creative and peacful addition to our homes and lives by adding some of the most simple and intricate aquarium systems. Change is inevitable with everything, especially in our aquariums; the technology is booming and our scaled friends reap most of the rewards for our hard work and dedication. Starting a saltwater aquarium can be a very daunting task at first glance, but don't worry so much; take it one step at a time.
Hands down, one of the most important aspects of setting up a home aquarium is location, location, location. When comtemplating the area needed/wanted for a saltwater setup, one must figure out the type of setup, how large of an aquarium and the equipment being used to provide efficient space. Try to avoid direct sunlight or keeping on a west-facing wall, this will lower the chances of unwanted algae growth and temperatures in excess of 80.0f. Ease of maintenance is also a priority when finding a permanent home for your saltwater setup. The harder it is getting into your tank for maintenance means the less likely you are to keep up on regular, routined water changes, feeding and unwanted emergencies.
Filtration is the most important aspect of keeping any aquarium, whether it is freshwater or saltwater. Since technology has changed so drastically over the years there is a wide variety of filtration choices that fit different needs. Years ago undergravel filter's were very big and widely used but more difficult to maintain, but since the number of aquarist's has exploded, the care of our aquatic life has become a number one priority. Hang-on-the-back (HOB) filter's have become very popular with hobbiests old and new and provide an effecient mechanical filtration by pulling water into the filter and running the water through a series of sponges, carbon and ammonia removers leaving debris out of your tank. When canister filter's came along they blew HOB's out of the water with a more powerful flow and advanced mechanical filtration. Wet/dry or trickle filters are also in high use. They are very simple filters that processes nitrites and ammonia and increases the amount of dissolved oxygen content in the water.
Then there were sump tanks. Adding a sump tank to a saltwater system is the most natural filtration for a home system you can find and most effeciant in my opinion. Not only does a sump add volume to your aquarium system but it provides a refuge for macroalgae, copepods, amphipods and any other suseptible inhabitants. A sump also allows you to top-off your water level, dose your tank and provide addition aeration. To sump, or not to sump. In addition to all the positive aspects of having a sump there are still more. A sump will also allow a person to "hide" all of their equipment such as, heaters, skimmers, filters, pumps etc. making the display tank far more appealing to the eye. For best filtration in a sump it is best to add live rock or live rock rubble and established live sand, in my opinion. There are other roads you can wander down including bio-balls, cermanic rings, sponges, filter socks and a whole plethora of in-sump products, all depends on personal experience and conclusions.
How do we light the way for our aquatic friends? Well this is not a very cut and dry topic depending on the use of your home aquarium. If you have decided to start up a fish only (FO) or a fish only with live rock (FOWLR) tank, a high output light is neccessarily needed. The fish world is traveling at a fast pace and lighting is one of the most sought out pieces of equipment by any hobbyist. The lighting can make all the difference in the world no matter what type of setup you have. With fish only or fish only with live rock systems can function fine with minimal lighting needs where as a reef tank will take far more lighting to live happily and thrive. For coral's to survive there are several different options for lighting, VHO (very high output) and HO (high output) we're some of the first fluorescent lights to be used for reef tanks and provide plenty of light for your photosynthetic corals. PC (power compact) lights are great for a smaller footprint tank and are basically a flourecent light bent in half and provided a great amount of light for corals. MH or metal halide lights have become the go to reef capable lights of choice for most hobbyists. Metal halide lights produce more lumens per watt than any other aquarium light mentioned and is a perfect choice for a reef setup. Though MH's produce a massive amount of heat and should be placed at least 8" from the surface of the tank, but I can gaurantee most if not all your corals needs will be met by a metal halide. With the inventive idea to bring LED's into the aquarium world we've met a whole new standard to aquarium lighting. Not only do LED's meet the requirments of any coral and reef, they also take up far less electricity than any of the aforementioned lights available and are an amazing addition to a reef tank, especially when you see the shimmer effect in your aquarium.
There will be some additional equipment needed to ensure the quality of life for your water dwellers, such as a heater, chiller, protein skimmer, UV sterilizer, filter sock, reactors, dosing pumps, controllers and so on and so forth. It may not be so obvious what you need but there is a very old and simple rule for most things and that is: K.I.S.S (Keep It Simple Stupid). There are different types of protein skimmers, there are in-sump skimmers and hang-on-the-back (HOB) skimmers, HOB filter's with a built-in skimmer and canister filter's with built-in skimmers and UV sterilizers. The basic purpose of a protein skimmer is to remove and collect access protein from your aquarium. This is accomplished by producing a massive amount of bubbles which captures the access protein, carries it to the top and collects in a cup to be discarded during maintenance. UV sterilizers use ultra-violet light to destroy most algae in the water which can be very useful to rid your tank of problem causing algae or algae not often touched by your inhabitants. Heater's are necessary for maintaining a comfortable and steady temperature during the cold seasons and a chiller does exactly what it sounds like, it chills the water during those unbearable summer days and nights; though with central air and proper care a chiller is not always needed.
Choosing your substrate can appear pretty easy when you're at your LFS (local fish store) until you see the many, many options provided for you. Depending on the look you want for your aquarium the grain size of your substrate should be the first thing you think about. The smaller the grains the harder it will be to clean. When maintaining your aquarium it is often a good idea to syphon your substrate to rid yourself of any unwanted algae and detritus (dead organisms and waste). This is where the grain size comes into play. Syphoning small grained substrate will lead to a great deal of substrate left in the bucket which means more work putting it back in. With that said, a medium grade, heavier substrate would be easier to maintain. Though with substrate like crushed coral it will be harder for inhabitants to burrow or bury themselves which leads a few less options for your stock list. When purchasing substrate there will be several options for live sand, overlook this immediately. Sit and ponder for a few moments how long the "live sand" has been sitting inside of a water-tight bag and how it got to the store it's at now. Months upon months have probably gone by since those bags of "live sand" were packaged and delivered which means there is a small chance of anything once-live organisms still being alive. With that said, what are you really paying for? Some sand and water that has been exposed to hot and old with a huge mark-up in price, needless to say there is no point.
Live rock will be one of the most important purchases made after the aquarium is all set up and ready to go. Live rock is exactly what it sounds like, rock with living organisms living on or inside of it; and this will help seed your tank and begin the cycling process which is more than necessary to ensure the survival of your livestock. It's been said to use 80% dead rock with 20% live rock and allow your tank to cycle naturally, while your tank is cycling it is not advisable to add anything alive due to spikes in harmful levels of ammonia, nitrates and nitrites. Also bacteria based additives are used to help speed along the cycle process but if there is one thing absolutely necessary for keeping a saltwater tank, it's patience. The live rock purchased at LFS (local fish stores) will come with plenty of living organisms from bristleworms to copepods to your random coral or even shrimp, but they can also be susceptible to apistia and other harmful hitchhikers. Live rock rubble is also commonly used in sump's as natural filtration and is beneficial for copepods and amphipods to search for food, grow and reproduce.
It may seem like a lot to take into consideration but remember that it's your duty to provide the best possible conditions and environment for your living pets. With that said, it's not always (usually never) best to take the "cheap" route, although there are a lot of do-it-yourself (DIY) projects that are possible at a reduced price. Don't get discouraged or frustrated, patience is key with setting up and maintaining a saltwater aquarium, never put anything into your aquarium you can't test for and always remember, K.I.S.S! Good luck and happy reefing!
Throughout the history of man we've looked to our bodies of water for substanance, inpiration, wonder and peace of mind. For the last several hundred years civilizations have found a creative and peacful addition to our homes and lives by adding some of the most simple and intricate aquarium systems. Change is inevitable with everything, especially in our aquariums; the technology is booming and our scaled friends reap most of the rewards for our hard work and dedication. Starting a saltwater aquarium can be a very daunting task at first glance, but don't worry so much; take it one step at a time.
Hands down, one of the most important aspects of setting up a home aquarium is location, location, location. When comtemplating the area needed/wanted for a saltwater setup, one must figure out the type of setup, how large of an aquarium and the equipment being used to provide efficient space. Try to avoid direct sunlight or keeping on a west-facing wall, this will lower the chances of unwanted algae growth and temperatures in excess of 80.0f. Ease of maintenance is also a priority when finding a permanent home for your saltwater setup. The harder it is getting into your tank for maintenance means the less likely you are to keep up on regular, routined water changes, feeding and unwanted emergencies.
Filtration is the most important aspect of keeping any aquarium, whether it is freshwater or saltwater. Since technology has changed so drastically over the years there is a wide variety of filtration choices that fit different needs. Years ago undergravel filter's were very big and widely used but more difficult to maintain, but since the number of aquarist's has exploded, the care of our aquatic life has become a number one priority. Hang-on-the-back (HOB) filter's have become very popular with hobbiests old and new and provide an effecient mechanical filtration by pulling water into the filter and running the water through a series of sponges, carbon and ammonia removers leaving debris out of your tank. When canister filter's came along they blew HOB's out of the water with a more powerful flow and advanced mechanical filtration. Wet/dry or trickle filters are also in high use. They are very simple filters that processes nitrites and ammonia and increases the amount of dissolved oxygen content in the water.
Then there were sump tanks. Adding a sump tank to a saltwater system is the most natural filtration for a home system you can find and most effeciant in my opinion. Not only does a sump add volume to your aquarium system but it provides a refuge for macroalgae, copepods, amphipods and any other suseptible inhabitants. A sump also allows you to top-off your water level, dose your tank and provide addition aeration. To sump, or not to sump. In addition to all the positive aspects of having a sump there are still more. A sump will also allow a person to "hide" all of their equipment such as, heaters, skimmers, filters, pumps etc. making the display tank far more appealing to the eye. For best filtration in a sump it is best to add live rock or live rock rubble and established live sand, in my opinion. There are other roads you can wander down including bio-balls, cermanic rings, sponges, filter socks and a whole plethora of in-sump products, all depends on personal experience and conclusions.
How do we light the way for our aquatic friends? Well this is not a very cut and dry topic depending on the use of your home aquarium. If you have decided to start up a fish only (FO) or a fish only with live rock (FOWLR) tank, a high output light is neccessarily needed. The fish world is traveling at a fast pace and lighting is one of the most sought out pieces of equipment by any hobbyist. The lighting can make all the difference in the world no matter what type of setup you have. With fish only or fish only with live rock systems can function fine with minimal lighting needs where as a reef tank will take far more lighting to live happily and thrive. For coral's to survive there are several different options for lighting, VHO (very high output) and HO (high output) we're some of the first fluorescent lights to be used for reef tanks and provide plenty of light for your photosynthetic corals. PC (power compact) lights are great for a smaller footprint tank and are basically a flourecent light bent in half and provided a great amount of light for corals. MH or metal halide lights have become the go to reef capable lights of choice for most hobbyists. Metal halide lights produce more lumens per watt than any other aquarium light mentioned and is a perfect choice for a reef setup. Though MH's produce a massive amount of heat and should be placed at least 8" from the surface of the tank, but I can gaurantee most if not all your corals needs will be met by a metal halide. With the inventive idea to bring LED's into the aquarium world we've met a whole new standard to aquarium lighting. Not only do LED's meet the requirments of any coral and reef, they also take up far less electricity than any of the aforementioned lights available and are an amazing addition to a reef tank, especially when you see the shimmer effect in your aquarium.
There will be some additional equipment needed to ensure the quality of life for your water dwellers, such as a heater, chiller, protein skimmer, UV sterilizer, filter sock, reactors, dosing pumps, controllers and so on and so forth. It may not be so obvious what you need but there is a very old and simple rule for most things and that is: K.I.S.S (Keep It Simple Stupid). There are different types of protein skimmers, there are in-sump skimmers and hang-on-the-back (HOB) skimmers, HOB filter's with a built-in skimmer and canister filter's with built-in skimmers and UV sterilizers. The basic purpose of a protein skimmer is to remove and collect access protein from your aquarium. This is accomplished by producing a massive amount of bubbles which captures the access protein, carries it to the top and collects in a cup to be discarded during maintenance. UV sterilizers use ultra-violet light to destroy most algae in the water which can be very useful to rid your tank of problem causing algae or algae not often touched by your inhabitants. Heater's are necessary for maintaining a comfortable and steady temperature during the cold seasons and a chiller does exactly what it sounds like, it chills the water during those unbearable summer days and nights; though with central air and proper care a chiller is not always needed.
Choosing your substrate can appear pretty easy when you're at your LFS (local fish store) until you see the many, many options provided for you. Depending on the look you want for your aquarium the grain size of your substrate should be the first thing you think about. The smaller the grains the harder it will be to clean. When maintaining your aquarium it is often a good idea to syphon your substrate to rid yourself of any unwanted algae and detritus (dead organisms and waste). This is where the grain size comes into play. Syphoning small grained substrate will lead to a great deal of substrate left in the bucket which means more work putting it back in. With that said, a medium grade, heavier substrate would be easier to maintain. Though with substrate like crushed coral it will be harder for inhabitants to burrow or bury themselves which leads a few less options for your stock list. When purchasing substrate there will be several options for live sand, overlook this immediately. Sit and ponder for a few moments how long the "live sand" has been sitting inside of a water-tight bag and how it got to the store it's at now. Months upon months have probably gone by since those bags of "live sand" were packaged and delivered which means there is a small chance of anything once-live organisms still being alive. With that said, what are you really paying for? Some sand and water that has been exposed to hot and old with a huge mark-up in price, needless to say there is no point.
Live rock will be one of the most important purchases made after the aquarium is all set up and ready to go. Live rock is exactly what it sounds like, rock with living organisms living on or inside of it; and this will help seed your tank and begin the cycling process which is more than necessary to ensure the survival of your livestock. It's been said to use 80% dead rock with 20% live rock and allow your tank to cycle naturally, while your tank is cycling it is not advisable to add anything alive due to spikes in harmful levels of ammonia, nitrates and nitrites. Also bacteria based additives are used to help speed along the cycle process but if there is one thing absolutely necessary for keeping a saltwater tank, it's patience. The live rock purchased at LFS (local fish stores) will come with plenty of living organisms from bristleworms to copepods to your random coral or even shrimp, but they can also be susceptible to apistia and other harmful hitchhikers. Live rock rubble is also commonly used in sump's as natural filtration and is beneficial for copepods and amphipods to search for food, grow and reproduce.
It may seem like a lot to take into consideration but remember that it's your duty to provide the best possible conditions and environment for your living pets. With that said, it's not always (usually never) best to take the "cheap" route, although there are a lot of do-it-yourself (DIY) projects that are possible at a reduced price. Don't get discouraged or frustrated, patience is key with setting up and maintaining a saltwater aquarium, never put anything into your aquarium you can't test for and always remember, K.I.S.S! Good luck and happy reefing!
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I really appreciate it, I haven't written anything like this or written for that matter in over 4 years, I was afraid I'd lost it haha
