Tang infection

Bonsai reef

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Hi,

Need advice on the infection on my yellow eyed spotted kole tang.

little background- he has been in my tank for about an year now- raised from a dime size when it was as all yellow.

A month back i attempted to rescue a CBB from a fellow reefer as he was not eating and my tank had a fair amount of aiptasia. But it didn’t touch a thing and starved to death in about a week (without signs of any infection). Bad move on my part of course!

Then i started seeing this infection kind of spot on my tang (left belly area) for the last 1.5 week. It was eating heavy so i wanter to wait. But looks like its spreading and its scratching against sand more often now. Below is a pic and a video for reference . Please let me know if you can see the video and recommend a course of action. Thanks

Video-1

Video 2

IMG_6202.jpeg
 

vetteguy53081

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Hi,

Need advice on the infection on my yellow eyed spotted kole tang.

little background- he has been in my tank for about an year now- raised from a dime size when it was as all yellow.

A month back i attempted to rescue a CBB from a fellow reefer as he was not eating and my tank had a fair amount of aiptasia. But it didn’t touch a thing and starved to death in about a week (without signs of any infection). Bad move on my part of course!

Then i started seeing this infection kind of spot on my tang (left belly area) for the last 1.5 week. It was eating heavy so i wanter to wait. But looks like its spreading and its scratching against sand more often now. Below is a pic and a video for reference . Please let me know if you can see the video and recommend a course of action. Thanks

Video-1

Video 2

IMG_6202.jpeg
I see what looks like a rash but will ask on my behalf and medic team to post pics under white light intensity to post new pics under white bright light intensity to clearly see fish for assessment
 
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Bonsai reef

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I see what looks like a rash but will ask on my behalf and medic team to post pics under white light intensity to post new pics under white bright light intensity to clearly see fish for assessment
Will try to get a white light picture tomorrow

In the mean time have arranged for a 10g hospital tank with HOB and the PVC elbows .
 

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I agree better pictures would be a great start - in the meantime - any other fish sick? It almost to me looks like an injury - but as said - can't really get a good look. Did you QT this fish? The others? (the CBB). To me - it does not look like a parasite - it could be infected. Do you happen to have any access to antibiotics?
 
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I agree better pictures would be a great start - in the meantime - any other fish sick? It almost to me looks like an injury - but as said - can't really get a good look. Did you QT this fish? The others? (the CBB). To me - it does not look like a parasite - it could be infected. Do you happen to have any access to antibiotics?
Its been in the DT for a year now. Bought him at dime size. I did not QT the CBB. Any medicine that i can get in the store or online in US should be accessible.
 

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Looks like your fish has some fin rot going on right pectoral besides what’s on its side

Is it just me or is this fish have a shrunk in belly? Is it feeding well? Sometimes these things set in when a fish is malnourished and has a compromised immune system
 
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Looks like your fish has some fin rot going on right pectoral besides what’s on its side

Is it just me or is this fish have a shrunk in belly? Is it feeding well? Sometimes these things set in when a fish is malnourished and has a compromised immune system
he eats like a pig, I feed 6-8 times a day with flake, pallets, frozen n nori (he is a hardcore carnivore though) and he is still eating every time i am feeding. Not a shrunken belly for sure it might be the shadow/light (or the swollen part) making it look like it. But i can see he is bothered more now with the infection spreading. He has been very healthy otherwise.
 

Jay Hemdal

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he eats like a pig, I feed 6-8 times a day with flake, pallets, frozen n nori (he is a hardcore carnivore though) and he is still eating every time i am feeding. Not a shrunken belly for sure it might be the shadow/light (or the swollen part) making it look like it. But i can see he is bothered more now with the infection spreading. He has been very healthy otherwise.

I wouldn't move the fish out unless you decide to treat for a bacterial infection (and are pretty sure that is the issue). The reason why is that if it is a protozoan or fluke disease, the other fish have already been exposed. In that case, you'll either need to move all the fish out and treat, or treat them in situ (but of course, many treatments cannot be used on invertebrates).

Given the skin damage, and the report of it scratching on the sand, I think the most likely scenario is that the CBB brought flukes into the tank - the timing is right for that also.

A prazipro treatment is mostly reef safe. You could dose it 2x, 8 days apart. Dose for the actual water volume of the tank. If you don't know that, use 85% of the tank's rated capacity (to offset displacement by the rocks). add extra aeration from an air stone. Remove any carbon and turn off the UV. Run the skimmer, but don't collect any skimmate during the treatment. In some cases, a third treatment is required.
 
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I wouldn't move the fish out unless you decide to treat for a bacterial infection (and are pretty sure that is the issue). The reason why is that if it is a protozoan or fluke disease, the other fish have already been exposed. In that case, you'll either need to move all the fish out and treat, or treat them in situ (but of course, many treatments cannot be used on invertebrates).

Given the skin damage, and the report of it scratching on the sand, I think the most likely scenario is that the CBB brought flukes into the tank - the timing is right for that also.

A prazipro treatment is mostly reef safe. You could dose it 2x, 8 days apart. Dose for the actual water volume of the tank. If you don't know that, use 85% of the tank's rated capacity (to offset displacement by the rocks). add extra aeration from an air stone. Remove any carbon and turn off the UV. Run the skimmer, but don't collect any skimmate during the treatment. In some cases, a third treatment is required.
Thanks Jay. Would you not recommend a fresh water dip to confirm fluke before treating it?
 

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Thanks Jay. Would you not recommend a fresh water dip to confirm fluke before treating it?

Only if you can do the dip without beating the fish up chasing it around, and only if you have a microscope to look at the dip water. Only capsalid flukes like Neobendenia are large enough to see in dips with the naked eye. Gill flukes and Gryrodactylus skin flukes all need a microscope to really see them, and then they can be a challenge since the dip contorts their bodies.....
 

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Here are some more pics i could manage to capture of this skittish fish-

_DSC5757.jpeg

_DSC5758.jpeg
_DSC5751.jpeg

_DSC5759.jpeg


_DSC5752.jpeg
Ok, see it now and Jay has given good direction. Netting may irritate this more- If removal necessary, utilize a small pail or large glass to entrap it, then move it over
 
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What are the impacts of prazi? I have mostly sps and some lps. There are snails (some are sand dwellers. Hermits, brittle starfish and innumerable worms and sponges of course
 

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This looks like a bacterial infection IMO but could have multiple things going on. Is the scratching happening with all fish in the aquarium?
 
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Administered hikari prazipro today with additional airstones running. Letting skimmer drain back to the sump and i dont run UV or carbon. Stopped carbon dosing.

Currently a lot of micro bubbles from the foaming skimmer. Sure did irritate some corals and some didn’t skip a bit.

Fingers crossed
 
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I wouldn't move the fish out unless you decide to treat for a bacterial infection (and are pretty sure that is the issue). The reason why is that if it is a protozoan or fluke disease, the other fish have already been exposed. In that case, you'll either need to move all the fish out and treat, or treat them in situ (but of course, many treatments cannot be used on invertebrates).

Given the skin damage, and the report of it scratching on the sand, I think the most likely scenario is that the CBB brought flukes into the tank - the timing is right for that also.

A prazipro treatment is mostly reef safe. You could dose it 2x, 8 days apart. Dose for the actual water volume of the tank. If you don't know that, use 85% of the tank's rated capacity (to offset displacement by the rocks). add extra aeration from an air stone. Remove any carbon and turn off the UV. Run the skimmer, but don't collect any skimmate during the treatment. In some cases, a third treatment is required.
Thanks @Jay Hemdal for the guidance here. The fish is doing great as of now with its fin fully extended as before with very less scratching against the sand. How much % of water change do you recommend before the 8th day 2nd dose and how soon the WC can happen? Question on "how soon" is mainly for nutrient export since I am not collecting skimmate currently so looking for ways to export nutrient.
 

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Thanks @Jay Hemdal for the guidance here. The fish is doing great as of now with its fin fully extended as before with very less scratching against the sand. How much % of water change do you recommend before the 8th day 2nd dose and how soon the WC can happen? Question on "how soon" is mainly for nutrient export since I am not collecting skimmate currently so looking for ways to export nutrient.
You can start collecting skimmate or do a water change 3 days after any prazi treatment (it doesn’t remain active longer than that anyway). I generally advise doing a 25% water change. You still need to monitor your water quality to ensure the levels are what you need them to be.
 
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Bonsai reef

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You can start collecting skimmate or do a water change 3 days after any prazi treatment (it doesn’t remain active longer than that anyway). I generally advise doing a 25% water change. You still need to monitor your water quality to ensure the levels are what you need them to be.
Makes sense, thanks!
 

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