Triton results and never able to keep corals

elysics

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Check Salinity at least once a week, that is one issue i've had, the salinity does seem to creep down for some reason, no leaks or anything and i keep my AWC salt a little higher to combat it, But i try to keep it at 1.025 and it usually creeeps to 1.023 after a couple week.s

I set them all with a par so i had 80-100 with the apogee par meter on my sand.
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xr30

I'll read up on it. Thank You

I don't feel any voltage with my hands in the tank, is there any other way to test it? Only wires in the tank are my returns, skimmer, and heaters.
I don't know if that salinity rollercoaster is enough to kill a torch within a day, but the "couple weeks" line up with the other corals looking good at first don't they? Where was the salinity when you did the icp?

How do you raise the salinity when you notice 1.023? All at once back to 1.025? That's stress for the corals.

And it means that your AWC system doesn't work. Could be a whole bunch of reasons. Is it possible to take it offline entirely and do manual waterchanges for a month or two?
 
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fairladyZ

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Nitrates can be detrimental either too high or too low. Generally my suggestion would be to shoot for the 3 PPM neighborhood. You will read about people with success at far higher numbers but I have never been able to matintain long-term success with nitrates that high. Ionic balance ends up getting too far out of alignment and even water changes become insufficient. Especially when adding net new coral, you can tell from day one they are unhappy with their new home.

So in short, I would work on getting nitrates down over the next few weeks. My choice to maintain nitrate is carbon dosing but depending on your tank there may be other options that would suffice.
They were at 30, i've been bringing them down slowly, I am dosing nopox but have it turned way down right now i think i'm doing like 6ml a day.

I have learned a lot from many of posts here.
Many valid observations and advice.
Your tank seem to be fairly young and seem as if you started with dry rock?
I have 120 G reef 3 months old which I established after my previous tank deteriorated due to massive majano infestation.
I initially started with dry rock, but quickly changed my mind and added live rock from 2 different sources.
I think that had tremendous impact and my Euphylia, Montipora and others are sprouting now.
Tanks based on dry rock need about a year to mature in most cases. Also remember that ICP test doesn't check S element (stability).
Good luck with your tank.
So the rock is all caribsea life rock, about half of it was in my FOWLR that i put all my fish in when i broke my old tank down and was going for about 6 months, then it was added to the s1000 when it was setup, there is a decent amount of it down in my sump/refugium as well. It was also cycled with Seed and Microbacter to start.

Tank looks good

shame to have all those 5 lights at 25%
It’s only a pic to go on so don’t just take my view…

Personally I would move your MP40’s off the back wall to either end - 2 on right and 2 on left.
This helps address the flow issues and I’d increase them slowly. 37% is rather low for a tank that size

increase your lights slowly. Most of your corals are placed lower down so with the flow and the lower light that might be the reason…
Difficult to make out but if you have any SPS get to the to the top of the scape

if your still having issues and water, flow and lights are good then I’d look at where your buying corals from…sometimes it not the hobbyist

good luck
The main point for 5 lights was 1) I had all five so why not. and 2) to eliminate shadowing from LED's. So it will help illuminate under corals and rocks better. I think having the powerheads on the side would probably be worse for flow, I keep them at 37% cause the tank is only 25% front to back so I don't need much more, if i do then it blows the sand off the front. My torch is getting about perfect flow maybe a hair strong in the middle of the tank.

I don't know if that salinity rollercoaster is enough to kill a torch within a day, but the "couple weeks" line up with the other corals looking good at first don't they? Where was the salinity when you did the icp?

How do you raise the salinity when you notice 1.023? All at once back to 1.025? That's stress for the corals.

And it means that your AWC system doesn't work. Could be a whole bunch of reasons. Is it possible to take it offline entirely and do manual waterchanges for a month or two?
I have it offline now as I just cleaned out the barrel. When i set it up and calibrated the brand new dose so it should be pulling the same amounts out but i will double check it. I think the plan for now is do bi-weekly water changes for a month or 2.

When i did the ICP test it was at 1.023. To bring it up i just switch my ATO pump into my salt barrel to bring it up slowly as 1 gallon of my ATO water a day comes from the kalk reactor. So it takes about 1.5 weeks to get it back up to 1.025
 

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