Tunze Osmolator stuck on overnight (3152)

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JayFish4004

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I have the Nano Osmolator also and have never cleaned the float in the 5 months I've had it so interesting to hear what you end up doing.

FWIW, Tunze spec shows about 0.4 gallons pumped for the 1.4 minute shut-off so that's a pretty small percentage of your overall 25 gallon water capacity,,, so not surprised if you didn't see noticeable salinity drop.
Okay just finished the cleaning exercise - I didnt want to unplug the actual sensor so I set a table up beside the tank to do this. Here’s a step-by-step:

1. Unplug the power to the device so it doesnt turn on when you remove from tank.
2. Fill bowl with 9 parts rodi water, 1 part white vinegar.
3. Unscrew the top mount so you can separate the float switch from the casing. Remove casing from magnet.
4. Soak the casing, float switch and the magnet that goes inside the tank.
5. Use your fingers or brush depending on effectiveness - I had to use fingers to remove the small white deposits that were on the casing and float switch.
6. Get a separate bucket with just rodi water and rinse and dry thoroughly.
7. Reassemble and place back in tank.


Couple observations:

It is critical to ensure your sensor is as level as possible - if its not it increases the likelihood that the float sensor can get caught up somewhere especially if you have little critters or deposits.

There’s also a chance this was caused by a snail - I don’t see any back there currently but would not rule it out.

I added a 3rd square of cardboard cutout that goes between the magnets on the outside of the tank to rule out the magnet causing issues. So there are 3 little cardboard squares between the magnets now - there were 2 before.

I am going to plan on cleaning this thing every 6 months or so moving forward.

Hopefully that fixes the issue - if it happens again I may order a replacement sensor or just replace the whole unit. I’ll update this thread if there’s any new developments.

Appreciate everyone’s input!
 
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EricR

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Okay just finished the cleaning exercise - I didnt want to unplug the actual sensor so I set a table up beside the tank to do this. Here’s a step-by-step:

1. Unplug the power to the device so it doesnt turn on when you remove from tank.
2. Fill bowl with 9 parts rodi water, 1 part white vinegar.
3. Unscrew the top mount so you can separate the float switch from the casing. Remove casing from magnet.
4. Soak the casing, float switch and the magnet that goes inside the tank.
5. Use your fingers or brush depending on effectiveness - I had to use fingers to remove the small white deposits that were on the casing and float switch.
6. Get a separate bucket with just rodi water and rinse and dry thoroughly.
7. Reassemble and place back in tank.


Couple observations:

It is critical to ensure your sensor is as level as possible - if its not it increases the likelihood that the float sensor can get caught up somewhere especially if you have little critters or deposits.

There’s also a chance this was caused by a snail - I don’t see any back there currently but would not rule it out.

I added a 3rd square of cardboard cutout that goes between the magnets on the outside of the tank to rule out the magnet causing issues. So there are 3 little cardboard squares between the magnets now - there were 2 before.

I am going to plan on cleaning this thing every 6 months or so moving forward.

Hopefully that fixes the issue - if it happens again I may order a replacement sensor or just replace the whole unit. I’ll update this thread if there’s any new developments.

Appreciate everyone’s input!
Cool -- thanks for the update on cleaning. (I've been meaning to buy a bag of food-grade citric acid off Amazon so was thinking of just using that)

I don't understand the "magnet" concern at all but not looking at the setup right now so will leave that topic alone for now -- the float is mechanical so I'm missing something here.

P.S. I've had my urchin latch onto the bottom of the float and hold it down (since the cover/tube is open on the bottom) and cause a similar situation but I noticed it happening so intervened,,, but good to know the "run time" shut-off fail-safe at least saved you here.
 
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Cool -- thanks for the update on cleaning. (I've been meaning to buy a bag of food-grade citric acid off Amazon so was thinking of just using that)

I don't understand the "magnet" concern at all but not looking at the setup right now so will leave that topic alone for now -- the float is mechanical so I'm missing something here.

P.S. I've had my urchin latch onto the bottom of the float and hold it down (since the cover/tube is open on the bottom) and cause a similar situation but I noticed it happening so intervened,,, but good to know the "run time" shut-off fail-safe at least saved you here.

I’ve heard through the grapevine that sometimes the magnet can be too strong between the glass and cause issues with the float switch - haven’t seen first hand but doesn’t hurt anything to do something like this:

B9F7A26E-2A35-4542-975C-CEA9ACC7B2D0.jpeg
 

EricR

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I’ve heard through the grapevine that sometimes the magnet can be too strong between the glass and cause issues with the float switch - haven’t seen first hand but doesn’t hurt anything to do something like this:

B9F7A26E-2A35-4542-975C-CEA9ACC7B2D0.jpeg
Interesting -- my tank only has 1/4" thick glass and I actually felt like the magnet was a little on the weak side when I had it on the painted, back glass so moved it to unpainted side glass.

I don't see how too strong of a magnet would have any effect on the mechanical float, unless the in-tank magnet starts deforming or something. (Oh well,,, leaving well enough alone)
 
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Interesting -- my tank only has 1/4" thick glass and I actually felt like the magnet was a little on the weak side when I had it on the painted, back glass so moved it to unpainted side glass.

I don't see how too strong of a magnet would have any effect on the mechanical float, unless the in-tank magnet starts deforming or something. (Oh well,,, leaving well enough alone)
Yeah Im not quite sure if there’s any merit to it but I like to take the better to be safe than sorry approach.
 
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Interesting -- my tank only has 1/4" thick glass and I actually felt like the magnet was a little on the weak side when I had it on the painted, back glass so moved it to unpainted side glass.

I don't see how too strong of a magnet would have any effect on the mechanical float, unless the in-tank magnet starts deforming or something. (Oh well,,, leaving well enough alone)
Here’s an explanation from someone on here regarding that:

“Since the float is not stopping it, my suspicion would be the float is not working due to magnetic interference, the float is a magnetic switch, the black ring in the bobber is a magnet which actuates a switch in the post when it moves. If the float is near other magnets, the controller is near ballasts or other magnetic fields, or the magnet holder is not properly lined up flat on a pane of 3/16-3/8" thick, the magnet holder or other magnetic field may prevent it from working, this is often visible as a bobber that leans like it is repelled or attracted to a magnet. A shim between the outside magnet and glass and eliminating other magnetic fields will solve the interference issues.”
 

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