Ways to get rid of algae.

[RickvDam]

Hello everyone,
I’m not sure if this is in the right category, but the reason I started looking into my filter/light issues is because of an algae bloom.

I've had my Waterbox Peninsula 15 running for about 3 months now, but I've been dealing with an algae issue for a while.

I've recently adjusted my AI Prime light to a lower intensity to see if that helps, but I also received a suggestion that I might be over-filtering my water and keeping my tank too clean. This suggestion came from the fact that both my Phosphate and Nitrate levels are consistently close to 0.

Which part(s) of my filter should I consider removing (at the moment)?

Currently, my filtration setup is as follows:

• Filter floss, which I replace every 2-3 days
• Sponge, which I rinse in saltwater on a weekly basis
• Carbon, replaced weekly
• Bioballs, rinsed in saltwater on a weekly basis
• Skimmer

I also perform a weekly water change of approximately 10 liters. I have 2 clownfish and some snails, so my bioload isn't very high.

 

[c4haskett]

Can we see a picture of the algae? Your nutrients are reading zero because the algae is consuming it so quickly. New tanks are always going to go through some sort of algae phase. My advice is to add some turbo snails or size permitting, a sea hare. A sea hare is like the goat of the sea and will make quick work of some hair algae. You can also do some manual removal of the algae by taking the rock out and scrubbing them or siphon it out of the tank. After my algae went away I added a algae scrubber and never had algae again. You could also start a refugium depending on your taste. Lots of options for you. Just be patient and stay away from chemcials if you can.

 

[Uncle99]

Nitrate and phosphate should never be zero.
Put them both in the range and keep them stable.
Zero nutrients appears to allow the pest algaes and bacterium to out compete your good guys.
You can just bump them easily with Brightwell NeoNitro and Neophos but you’ll need to be able to test to get them in line and stable.

 

[RickvDam]

Can we see a picture of the algae? Your nutrients are reading zero because the algae is consuming it so quickly. New tanks are always going to go through some sort of algae phase. My advice is to add some turbo snails or size permitting, a sea hare. A sea hare is like the goat of the sea and will make quick work of some hair algae. You can also do some manual removal of the algae by taking the rock out and scrubbing them or siphon it out of the tank. After my algae went away I added a algae scrubber and never had algae again. You could also start a refugium depending on your taste. Lots of options for you. Just be patient and stay away from chemcials if you can.

Thanks for the reply. I will put pictures under te text. I’m definitly not planning on using chemicals before I’ve tried everything else. I already have +-15 snails, and even they can’t keep up with the algae…

 

[RickvDam]

Nitrate and phosphate should never be zero.
Put them both in the range and keep them stable.
Zero nutrients appears to allow the pest algaes and bacterium to out compete your good guys.
You can just bump them easily with Brightwell NeoNitro and Neophos but you’ll need to be able to test to get them in line and stable.

Would you recommend using those chemicals instantly or should I remove some filter material and see what happens?

 

[blecki]

Dosing isn't the way to go. Time is. Also, need to see pictures.

 

[blecki]

Can we get a FTS? That looks pretty normal for the ugly phase. I'd just wait it out.

 

[RickvDam]

Can we get a FTS? That looks pretty normal for the ugly phase. I'd just wait it out.

I assume you mean full tank shot? I only have this picture but this was over a month ago (rest are with blue’s on). When I get back from work my tank will be long asleep (11PM), so I can’t make a full picture with whites untill tomorrow. (Its 6PM here)

 

[c4haskett]

Removed.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks for the reply. I will put pictures under te text. I’m definitly not planning on using chemicals before I’ve tried everything else. I already have +-15 snails, and even they can’t keep up with the algae…

I believe your numbers are near zero as you seem to have early stages of dinoflagellates. Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and the reason often numbers are zero is because the dino cells are consuming the nitrates and phosphate levels. If you find this stuff less visible in the morning and growing during the day, its likely dino cells feeding off of light.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependent corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which serves as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them. Dosing neophos and nitrate will simply feed the flagellates even more as again- they are consuming no3 and po4

 

[RickvDam]

I believe your numbers are near zero as you seem to have early stages of dinoflagellates. Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and the reason often numbers are zero is because the dino cells are consuming the nitrates and phosphate levels. If you find this stuff less visible in the morning and growing during the day, its likely dino cells feeding off of light.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependent corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which serves as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them. Dosing neophos and nitrate will simply feed the flagellates even more as again- they are consuming no3 and po4

Thanks! I thought dino’s were just “laying” on rocks? Cause whatever I have is really stuck on the rock. I really need to scrub it off. It’s also on the glass which I thought dino’s didn’t grow on?
I changed my schedule from AB+ to the WWC 24gal schedule which is way way less intense. My algae also doesn’t grow in my cave where no lights get.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks! I thought dino’s were just “laying” on rocks? Cause whatever I have is really stuck on the rock. I really need to scrub it off. It’s also on the glass which I thought dino’s didn’t grow on?

Dinos are flagellates and can stick on any surface. They are found on " surfaces" and if you remove it today, you will notice a reappearance tomorrow, It does not have to be brown or have bubbles. Again, this appears as early stage. As mentioned, if you notice it less in the morning and increasing in appearance as the day goes on - its likely dino.
I rule out diatom and although cyano can be brown in color. . . dino jumps out

 

[RickvDam]

Dinos are flagellates and can stick on any surface. They are found on " surfaces" and if you remove it today, you will notice a reappearance tomorrow, It does not have to be brown or have bubbles. Again, this appears as early stage. As mentioned, if you notice it less in the morning and increasing in appearance as the day goes on - its likely dino.
I rule out diatom and although cyano can be brown in color. . . dino jumps out

Alright thanks! So the best thing I can do is check tomorrow when lights turn on, and then when lights turn off?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Alright thanks! So the best thing I can do is check tomorrow when lights turn on, and then when lights turn off?

Agreed - you will notice

 

[Reef.]

Agreed - you will notice

A good test is to strain 2 cups of tank water through a paper kitchen towel folded twice, into a container, let it sit for 15-30mins, if you see a brown stringy substance in the container, then it’s most likely dinos.

 

[RickvDam]

A good test is to strain 2 cups of tank water through a paper kitchen towel folded twice, into a container, let it sit for 15-30mins, if you see a brown stringy substance in the container, then it’s most likely dinos.

Just normal tank water or tank water with the “algae” in it? Cause that seems like something I can give a try!

 

[Reef.]

Just normal tank water or tank water with the “algae” in it? Cause that seems like something I can give a try!

Just tank water, if dinos are present then they will be in the water, dinos group together, the paper will help to separate them, then if they reform in the container after 15-30mins you will see a brown string.

 

[RickvDam]

Just tank water, if dinos are present then they will be in the water, dinos group together, the paper will help to separate them, then if they reform in the container after 15-30mins you will see a brown string.

Wait so if I have dino’s, they are everywhere in the tank I just can’t see them when they are not stacked together?

 

[Reef.]

Yep. Th

Wait so if I have dino’s, they are everywhere in the tank I just can’t see them when they are not stacked together?

Yep breed and grow all the time.

 

[Reef.]

Try water with them in too if you want but Strap some off, just make sure they are separated when you strain them, then watch if they Redon into a string.