Who uses red sea reef nutrition A and B?

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I am sorry I should have clarified. I do not use carbon. I use purigen for clarity thought about a uv but not sure if it would pull the phytoplankton I dose out of the water column. I carbon dose a reactor once a week with nopox or vodka usually rotate the two
Gotcha. That makes more sense. I was vodka dosing for 2 years on my tank. I was maintaining 4-6ppm nitrates and using lanthanum dosed into my skimmer neck (if, and only when needed) to maintain po4 at around 0.10 (0.08-0.16) and I had amazing growth and color. After installing the new sump within 3 weeks everything bottomed out. And I mean absolute zero. Started getting dinos and red slime. So I had to stop the vodka immediately and start dosing sodium nitrate and seachem flourish (per randy Holmes farley) and I hooked up the uv which almost immediately cleared up the dinos and red slime. But it was too much stress on the acros. But I'm hoping the nutrition a and b fixes it. I used a small travel refrigerator to keep the bottles cold and I'm gonna drill 2 holes though it for the dosing lines. This way it can stay cold and be dosed on a schedule.

Edit: I also wanted to quickly address that you said you were thinking about adding a uv... dont. If your carbon dosing to maintain nutrients, your building up bacteria levels in your water column as well as your system to lower nitrates. The uv will sterilize any bacteria that goes through it. so it's kinda counter productive. I didnt run a uv until recently after I stopped vodka dosing. Now with that said, I may be completely wrong but I swear I've read that alot over the years (ive been doing salt water since '99) and it makes sense in my mind. But that's just my opinion and my reasoning haha.
 

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Gotcha. That makes more sense. I was vodka dosing for 2 years on my tank. I was maintaining 4-6ppm nitrates and using lanthanum dosed into my skimmer neck (if, and only when needed) to maintain po4 at around 0.10 (0.08-0.16) and I had amazing growth and color. After installing the new sump within 3 weeks everything bottomed out. And I mean absolute zero. Started getting dinos and red slime. So I had to stop the vodka immediately and start dosing sodium nitrate and seachem flourish (per randy Holmes farley) and I hooked up the uv which almost immediately cleared up the dinos and red slime. But it was too much stress on the acros. But I'm hoping the nutrition a and b fixes it. I used a small travel refrigerator to keep the bottles cold and I'm gonna drill 2 holes though it for the dosing lines. This way it can stay cold and be dosed on a schedule.

Edit: I also wanted to quickly address that you said you were thinking about adding a uv... dont. If your carbon dosing to maintain nutrients, your building up bacteria levels in your water column as well as your system to lower nitrates. The uv will sterilize any bacteria that goes through it. so it's kinda counter productive. I didnt run a uv until recently after I stopped vodka dosing. Now with that said, I may be completely wrong but I swear I've read that alot over the years (ive been doing salt water since '99) and it makes sense in my mind. But that's just my opinion and my reasoning haha.
I carbon dosed daily on the first tank the 10 gallon with nopox and just seamed to make the whole system unstable not sure if too little water volume or what but phosphates bottomed out weird slime in the pumps and unstable alk and ph. The new tank the 70 gallon I set up some media with a very low flow and add a carbon source once a week in hopes to create an anaerobic zone inside the reactor but have no clue if it is actually working seems good in theory. I have managed to stabilize the system but not sure if it is the diy denitrator the large fuge or diy cheto reactor. Thought about the uv to clear up the slight green tint due to the phyto dosing but luckily the purigen cleared it right up
 

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Gotcha. That makes more sense. I was vodka dosing for 2 years on my tank. I was maintaining 4-6ppm nitrates and using lanthanum dosed into my skimmer neck (if, and only when needed) to maintain po4 at around 0.10 (0.08-0.16) and I had amazing growth and color. After installing the new sump within 3 weeks everything bottomed out. And I mean absolute zero. Started getting dinos and red slime. So I had to stop the vodka immediately and start dosing sodium nitrate and seachem flourish (per randy Holmes farley) and I hooked up the uv which almost immediately cleared up the dinos and red slime. But it was too much stress on the acros. But I'm hoping the nutrition a and b fixes it. I used a small travel refrigerator to keep the bottles cold and I'm gonna drill 2 holes though it for the dosing lines. This way it can stay cold and be dosed on a schedule.

Edit: I also wanted to quickly address that you said you were thinking about adding a uv... dont. If your carbon dosing to maintain nutrients, your building up bacteria levels in your water column as well as your system to lower nitrates. The uv will sterilize any bacteria that goes through it. so it's kinda counter productive. I didnt run a uv until recently after I stopped vodka dosing. Now with that said, I may be completely wrong but I swear I've read that alot over the years (ive been doing salt water since '99) and it makes sense in my mind. But that's just my opinion and my reasoning haha.
The refrigerator for the a & b is cool I wondered how to set it up automatically when it had to bee keep cold would like to see what you come up with and how you set it up
 
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I carbon dosed daily on the first tank the 10 gallon with nopox and just seamed to make the whole system unstable not sure if too little water volume or what but phosphates bottomed out weird slime in the pumps and unstable alk and ph. The new tank the 70 gallon I set up some media with a very low flow and add a carbon source once a week in hopes to create an anaerobic zone inside the reactor but have no clue if it is actually working seems good in theory. I have managed to stabilize the system but not sure if it is the diy denitrator the large fuge or diy cheto reactor. Thought about the uv to clear up the slight green tint due to the phyto dosing but luckily the purigen cleared it right up
Honestly seems like your doing too much. I made that mistake in the beginning and sometimes now too. Dont chase number as much as you should learn to read the tank. We know dinos, slimes are from low nutrients, so with all those nutrient export methods your fighting yourself. Carbon dosing and having a fuge arent gonna work long term bc the fuge wont have anything to draw on to survive. And to make an anaerobic zone we used to do that with deep sand beds, or some fluidized bed reactors. All which we learned would crash long term. Simplify your system, consentrate on one form of filtration, learn to read your system(seems like you need more nutrients not less) and you'll thank me later for it later.
 
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The refrigerator for the a & b is cool I wondered how to set it up automatically when it had to bee keep cold would like to see what you come up with and how you set it up
Its just a simple travel fridge, I'm gonna drill 2 holes through the top and put dosing lines though them and use hot glue to seal the holes back up. I have 2 x1 dosing pumps that will run the program to dose each.

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Honestly seems like your doing too much. I made that mistake in the beginning and sometimes now too. Dont chase number as much as you should learn to read the tank. We know dinos, slimes are from low nutrients, so with all those nutrient export methods your fighting yourself. Carbon dosing and having a fuge arent gonna work long term bc the fuge wont have anything to draw on to survive. And to make an anaerobic zone we used to do that with deep sand beds, or some fluidized bed reactors. All which we learned would crash long term. Simplify your system, consentrate on one form of filtration, learn to read your system(seems like you need more nutrients not less) and you'll thank me later for it later.
I have a reactor with seachem denitrate and a very low flow which I add a small amount of a carbon source to once a week. Is it possible to create an anaerobic zone this way or is it just functioning as live rock
 
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I have a reactor with seachem denitrate and a very low flow which I add a small amount of a carbon source to once a week. Is it possible to create an anaerobic zone this way or is it just functioning as live rock
I've never actually used it before. Is it a fine media like sand or coarse. If its coarse your not gonna get an anaerobic zone with flow going through it. But of your nutrients are super low y even carbon dose. Your just creating an environment for dinos and red slime.
 

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I've never actually used it before. Is it a fine media like sand or coarse. If its coarse your not gonna get an anaerobic zone with flow going through it. But of your nutrients are super low y even carbon dose. Your just creating an environment for dinos and red slime.
It is a course media like small pebbles. I didn’t think so either since it is not tightly packed and the reactor is carrying water which has oxygen to the bottom and back out but thought I would try the directions on the container. Lol well cool beans looks like I have a mini marine block type biological reactor.

Yea your right I have noticed that I have to feed the tank extremely heavy and I am talking to where the fish are so full they look like they might sink just to keep nitrates at 2 which is what Red Sea recommends for their mixed reef system. In the ten gallon my problem was high nitrates so I think I went overboard in the current 70 gallon lol determined to solve that problem.

I am new but have read about deep sand beds. Do they work? I like the idea of methods found in nature. Between a deep sand bed and a fuge the fuge would be less likely to crash a system long term than a deep sand bed correct?
 
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It is a course media like small pebbles. I didn’t think so either since it is not tightly packed and the reactor is carrying water which has oxygen to the bottom and back out but thought I would try the directions on the container. Lol well cool beans looks like I have a mini marine block type biological reactor.

Yea your right I have noticed that I have to feed the tank extremely heavy and I am talking to where the fish are so full they look like they might sink just to keep nitrates at 2 which is what Red Sea recommends for their mixed reef system. In the ten gallon my problem was high nitrates so I think I went overboard in the current 70 gallon lol determined to solve that problem.

I am new but have read about deep sand beds. Do they work? I like the idea of methods found in nature. Between a deep sand bed and a fuge the fuge would be less likely to crash a system long term than a deep sand bed correct?
I'll pm you to continue our conversation were throwing this while thread off topic Haha.


Anyone have any thought on when is the best time of day to dose the A and B? Before or as lights come on? Mid day or as lights are going out or off?
 

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I'll pm you to continue our conversation were throwing this while thread off topic Haha.


Anyone have any thought on when is the best time of day to dose the A and B? Before or as lights come on? Mid day or as lights are going out or off?
Lol whoops. I dose mine in the morning before lights on but have no idea when is an ideal time just convenient for my schedule
 

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I use it with amazing results. I have tried alot of things and this is what I like the best, speaking from the corals perspective , but we are locked into the berlin method and manual redsea a/b energy , their colors 4 part , and I dose manually aquavitro cal , and dkh , and mag, I also run redsea 90s with some b+ ,and fiji pink t5s so its a color factory
 
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Anybody dose at night? Seems like there is more polyp extension for feeding in the dark... would it be benificial to dose then?
 

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