Zoa Info please

[Lofr]

100# of marco dry rock, 80# of Fiji pink sand. In addition to the standard sock filter and Octopus skimmer in the sump, also have 2 filter pad sheets rolled up between the baffles before the return.

 

[Tahoe61]

My take away is acclimate to lighting, dip in Lugols. I start new tanks fully cycled with Zoanthids all the time. Recheck that pH in the am and the pm. Let the alk drift down and make sure your SG is accurate.

 

[Lofr]

I think there is a general thought that "Cycle complete" equals "ready for anything" which just isn't true. this is why we recommend against things like anemones or clams in a "new" system.

A question, if you didn't already mention it - What kind of rock/sand do you have, and how much? Do you have any additional biological filtration (marinepure blocks, etc?) I suspect the move towards dead rock and minimalist aquascaping is also making these sort of problems come up more than they used to (my first tank, 8 years ago, it was recommended to have 2lb/gal of rock, my current system runs more like .75lb/gal)

This is all purely conjecture, and I am not recommending any changes other than patience at this time, sinc eyour other livestock is doing well.

Regarding LFS recommending zoas for your system... By all intents, zoas are a good beginner coral, as they are generally pretty hardy. It is generally considered fine to add them early in a system's life, but I have observed very similar results to yours in three systems now, and struggled to figure out what was going on at the time.

Thought maybe a picture would help.

 

[Tahoe61]

Forgot to add check for the usual pest at night. Nudibranch, Spiders, Sundials, Asterina.

 

[Lofr]

Got a nudibranch with the CUC, but it didn't make it. Remaining are various snails and hermit crabs, one Brittle Starfish.

 

[littlebigreef]

I think there is a general thought that "Cycle complete" equals "ready for anything" which just isn't true. this is why we recommend against things like anemones or clams in a "new" system.

A question, if you didn't already mention it - What kind of rock/sand do you have, and how much? Do you have any additional biological filtration (marinepure blocks, etc?) I suspect the move towards dead rock and minimalist aquascaping is also making these sort of problems come up more than they used to (my first tank, 8 years ago, it was recommended to have 2lb/gal of rock, my current system runs more like .75lb/gal)

This is all purely conjecture, and I am not recommending any changes other than patience at this time, sinc eyour other livestock is doing well.

Regarding LFS recommending zoas for your system... By all intents, zoas are a good beginner coral, as they are generally pretty hardy. It is generally considered fine to add them early in a system's life, but I have observed very similar results to yours in three systems now, and struggled to figure out what was going on at the time.

JoeIII if full of good points. One other thing I'd like to add is that not all zoas are created equal. While there's many common varieties that are inexpensive and forgiving there's just as many that can be a challenge to keep. It's unlikely that the LFS would sell you these initially as they're often more difficult to obtain and cost more. But, be forewarned that some of the coolest zoas can be as challenging to keep as acros.

I'd also urge patience. The biological maturation of your aquarium just takes time. However, once fully established the aquarium will easily be able to absorb the increased bioload from new organisms be it fish, coral, inverts or whatever else you may add.

 

[Lofr]

Thanks for all the help. I have placed an order on Amazon for the Lugol's dip. Hopefully that saves at least some of the zoa's that are looking poorly.

 

[JoeIII]

I suspected you had dry rock to begin with - I have seen a few (acro) people recently reporting it seeming to take much longer for tanks to mature if started with dry rock, and my nano that started with dry rock and live sand from another system reflects this as well - It's 8 months in and some of my zoas are just refusing to open up, as others have begun to thrive over time.

 

[Bradw18]

I'd leave them alone. Your gonna stres them out more by dipping them. Either they'll pull through or they won't. Dipping them in my opinion is only going to make things worse. Turn the skimmer off for a few days see if it helps.

 

[Lofr]

I suspected you had dry rock to begin with - I have seen a few (acro) people recently reporting it seeming to take much longer for tanks to mature if started with dry rock, and my nano that started with dry rock and live sand from another system reflects this as well - It's 8 months in and some of my zoas are just refusing to open up, as others have begun to thrive over time.

So if I keep the zoas in the tank that look to be gone (and use the dip), will those come back as the tank matures more do you think?

 

[JoeIII]

I'm with bradw on this one - Leave them be for now. Since at least one colony is open, I don't suspect pests and think they will either pull through or not at this point. The only thing you can do is hurt them presently, IMO.

In the images, I don't see any that are goners for sure, but only time will tell.

 

[Bradw18]

Iv had zoas shipped with no heat packs. They were shipped in cheap plastic containers that all opened during shipping half the zoas had no water at all. To my surprise most pulled through, very resilient creatures. If the environment is right they will thrive!!!

 

[Tahoe61]

Zoanthids melt or fail to thrive for unknown reasons. As previously posted different Zoanthids have different husbandry requirements. If you see no viable tissue on the frag the chance of recovery is slime IME. With regard to dry rock and new tanks, I do not believe this variable is the main contributing factor to success with Zoanthids if the tank is fully cycled. If water chemistry is in line with NSW and lighting appropriate for the Zoanthid type then there is no reason they should not open. You posted a pH value of 9 and an alk of 10, is the pH an error?
I started this tank Oct 17ths with dry rock, dry sand less then 3 weeks old. I did seed the tank with filtration media from a running tank.

Another newly set up tank at 2 months at the time of this image. Zoanthids doing well, same cycle method.

Point is something is wrong with the Zoanthids be it lighting needs or less than ideal water chemistry, perhaps they shipped poorly and never recovered.

 

[Jl330]

My first round of zoas made it 4 weeks into a dry cycle with live sand. They closed for 2 weeks and owned up one day. 2nd round opened right up and are growing just fine. Started tank in August so I'm not even 3 months in. My tank has had some crazy swings and finally settled down and they're thriving now.

Dirty the water up for sure, that actually cured most of my problems. I started feeding extra, cut down on my water changes. I'm still running my skimmer full time though.

 

[Lofr]

Zoanthids melt or fail to thrive for unknown reasons. As previously posted different Zoanthids have different husbandry requirements. If you see no viable tissue on the frag the chance of recovery is slime IME. With regard to dry rock and new tanks, I do not believe this variable is the main contributing factor to success with Zoanthids if the tank is fully cycled. If water chemistry is in line with NSW and lighting appropriate for the Zoanthid type then there is no reason they should not open. You posted a pH value of 9 and an alk of 10, is the pH an error?
I started this tank Oct 17ths with dry rock, dry sand less then 3 weeks old. I did seed the tank with filtration media from a running tank.

Another newly set up tank at 2 months at the time of this image. Zoanthids doing well, same cycle method.

Point is something is wrong with the Zoanthids be it lighting needs or less than ideal water chemistry, perhaps they shipped poorly and never recovered.

Yes, you are correct - PH is at 8.4

 

[BillH]

Personally I find that Kh and ph rather high for a fairly normal calcium level. I bet your magnesium is out of wack too. Kh should not be that high with calcium in standard levels. Ck that magnesium, get kh and cal in line with each other and stablilize your water at 1.025. Stability is key, dont make any of those changes rapidly by no means.