Zoas closed up and shedding skin

[PotatoPig]

So my zoas have been doing great, spreading, open, and no other issues in the tank (LPS doing well at the other end of the tank, other softies doing well).

Then the last ~4 days I’ve been noticing them closed up a lot more. On closer look they seem to be peeling a bit with bits of skin hanging off.

I recently added a new Zoa, but dipped it, it’s on another rock, and it’s doing fine - all polyps open all day long. No other changes.

The rock is readily removable from the tank.

Dip? Wait and See? Any other action?

Salinity: 35
Phosphates: 0.3 (these have been typically 0.2-0.7 over the life of the zoas in the tank and no issues)
Nitrates: 20-30

 

[Snowxcross]

Zoa's just do weird things... I've had low-end and high-end zoa's melt for no reason, or close up for a week for no reason then come back. I've had them almost totally melt, thought they were goners, then a month later one head grew back and is fine. I can also say no parameter swings during any of this, nor agitation from critters or fish. They're just weird sometimes, i did notice sometimes before they pop out new heads, some zoa colonies do exactly this... And, i've seen feeding be an issue where they're closed for a few days after a large spot feed or something.

 

[Lavey29]

Have you checked iodine or manganese levels recently?

 

[PotatoPig]

Zoa's just do weird things...

So hoping this is that. After another day of inaction they’re mostly more open than the last week. Fingers crossed they were just temporarily ticked off.

Have you checked iodine or manganese levels recently?

I have tests for neither of these… though my next checker is Calcium and Alk, so might be a bit before I can get these sorted.

 

[Lavey29]

So hoping this is that. After another day of inaction they’re mostly more open than the last week. Fingers crossed they were just temporarily ticked off.



I have tests for neither of these… though my next checker is Calcium and Alk, so might be a bit before I can get these sorted.

It is typically checked via ICP test a few times a year but as others mentioned zoas can be funny. Some love very high light, other shade, etc...I never dip mine.

 

[PotatoPig]

Update:

I think I’ve just been neglecting water changes too much so trace elements are depleted. After a much more active water change schedule (5% per day for a week to supply/maintain water for a fish QT tank) there’s a significant improvement in all colonies.

 

[crazyfishmom]

Update:

I think I’ve just been neglecting water changes too much so trace elements are depleted. After a much more active water change schedule (5% per day for a week to supply/maintain water for a fish QT tank) there’s a significant improvement in all colonies.

If your water quality if fine otherwise, you might want to try all for reef to prevent this from happening. My zoas have never been happier and I haven’t done a single water change in my 40 gallon for quite some time.

 

[PotatoPig]

If your water quality if fine otherwise, you might want to try all for reef to prevent this from happening. My zoas have never been happier and I haven’t done a single water change in my 40 gallon for quite some time.

The last couple days I have been thinking about that, but curious of cost vs time.

Do you know very roughly what the month to month cost of dosing works out for you? (Realizing systems vary considerably…)

 

[crazyfishmom]

The last couple days I have been thinking about that, but curious of cost vs time.

Do you know very roughly what the month to month cost of dosing works out for you? (Realizing systems vary considerably…)

I have a 210 gallon system and with the sump I estimate a 230 gallon volume considering displacement from equipment and rock. I dose 30 mL of it daily. For my 40 gallon i dose 5 mL. That tank is full of montis, softies including zoas, and different anemones. My parameters are rock solid. I have a mixed reef with SPS growth taking off so I will likely have to start supplementing alkalinity on the big tank. Don’t know if that’s something you are thinking about doing but also something to think about. Having said all of that, the cost of a 1600g powder container is $75 and it’s enough for 10 liters which works out to approximately 1 year for $75. I think that’s a pretty decent deal. Not sure how big your system is but seems worth it to me!

 

[crazyfishmom]

The last couple days I have been thinking about that, but curious of cost vs time.

Do you know very roughly what the month to month cost of dosing works out for you? (Realizing systems vary considerably…)

I also don’t use a doser. Just add it all in in the morning before I head off to work.

 

[PotatoPig]

I also don’t use a doser. Just add it all in in the morning before I head off to work.

Thank you - mine is a 75 gallon with a mix of softies and LPS (with one tentative dip into beginner SPS up at the top of the tank) so sounds like this might be a viable/economic option.

I run a low and highly diluted dose of lanthanum in a DIY drip doser that kinda doubles as an ATO, could add this in in the same thing on days I’m not running the lanthanum.

 

[crazyfishmom]

Thank you - mine is a 75 gallon with a mix of softies and LPS (with one tentative dip into beginner SPS up at the top of the tank) so sounds like this might be a viable/economic option.

I run a low and highly diluted dose of lanthanum in a DIY drip doser that kinda doubles as an ATO, could add this in in the same thing on days I’m not running the lanthanum.

And just FYI, I’m a little paranoid so I’ve sent in for ICP analysis recently and all was within range and looking great.

 

[Seansea]

Low iodine will def cause them to close up. Had the same problem until i started dosing AFR but still need to add some iodine and traces iN ATO becuase AFR cant keep with algae scrubber.