All SPS unhappy...I'm lost

[Frostyfish]

I use instant ocean salt.[/QUOTE]

I switched from instant ocean to fritz and saw a big difference. Some people love instant ocean, but a reef specific salt would be best for SPS.

 

[ps2cho]

I guess you get what you pay for...

Here's some photos from today:

 

[SleepEatCorals]

I keep ca and alk in line with kalk in my ato. I use one leveled teaspoon per gallon and it seems to hold my numbers.

I use instant ocean salt.

Using instant ocean is for only fish tanks, i would switch to reef crystal that more for reef tanks

 

[mcarroll]

[…]I researched some of the best tanks and tried to replicate the most common things which were carbon dosing and gfo[...]

They run those things because they have to due to the way they set up their tank, not because carbon dosing or GFO are "good for corals" or anything remotely like that.

Going that route coupled with cheap (dead) pumps is what gotcha.

Good luck on the rebound!

-Matt

 

[SleepEatCorals]

Its okay to replicate someones tank, but you need to understand why their using it!!! Reason for them using GFO is because the amount they feed! Some of these tanks are fed 4-6 times a day!!! Ya thats alot lol!! Myself i do 4 times a day and 5 when i feed at late night for corals! But i dont use gfo because of my refugium its maintains my po4 to 0. I run carbon if corals t acting up and i cant find whats wrong, cause from coral chemical warefare or maybe from lotion, or any kind of products that got in it! So its cool to want a tank that you like but be aware of reason why they use, ask that person why and see if it applies to you!

 

[ps2cho]

What about reef crystals as a good choice to switch to?
I had bad experience with red sea coral pro...it just clouded my water for days every time.

 

[ps2cho]

Also this probably explained why I thought my SCA-302 skimmer was crap because I wasn't getting that thick black gross skimmate. I'd get midly brown at best. I just put my skimmer back online today and within 12hrs I have a thin layer of pure black skimmate. Its probably now actually pulling some real excess nutrients! I'll keep it as conservative as I can and only aim for black.

 

[Frostyfish]

Here's some info on salt mixes. http://web.archive.org/web/20001215...om/fish2/aqfm/1999/mar/features/1/default.asp

 

[mcarroll]

Also this probably explained why I thought my SCA-302 skimmer was crap because I wasn't getting that thick black gross skimmate. I'd get midly brown at best. I just put my skimmer back online today and within 12hrs I have a thin layer of pure black skimmate. Its probably now actually pulling some real excess nutrients! I'll keep it as conservative as I can and only aim for black.

Unless you need to conserve water for some reason, I'd skim wet so it comes out closer in color to tea than anything thicker or darker. At least if you're trying to intensively skim, have it fill the cup as often as you're willing to empty/clean it. At least once a day isn't too much, but like I said - as much as you're willing.

You *will* get more junk out this way.

Just remember if you start removing a lot of liquid to replace it in the tank with an equal volume of fresh mixed saltwater. Keep an eye on salinity so you know when. (If you do regular water changes and make salinity adjustments as-needed then, you may not need to worry about the skimmer separately.)

-Matt

 

[that Reef Guy]

The tank is to young for SPS corals. The tank is still going through swings. You haven't reached saturation yet. Your magnesium is low start raising that slowly and you will see a difference

What do you mean by too young?

I ask because I need to set up an SPS Frag Tank ASAP.

I hear some people say wait a year.

But then other say you can put them in right away as long as the tank is cycled.

So what exactly is the proper time to wait?

 

[ps2cho]

So looks like the pump stopped again. I ordered one of the new Jebao RW-15 pumps. After more research this was the first generation of the WP-x lines and I read that a bunch had issues so I guess mine was included. I was debating doing an MP-40, but I cannot justify $500. I bought the RW-15 for $95 out the door. It can do 600-4000gph so should be PLENTY!

Also I have had some trouble recently with the kalk. I'm not sure if the evaporation is not consistent, or whether the kalk is sinking to the bottom and its getting a more concentrated dose? (I notice its darker at the bottom?). Any thoughts? Or should I really consider getting a few of the dosing pumps and do 2-part?

 

[mcarroll]

Just for the record, if you WERE going to pick Vortechs I'd probably consider MP10's vs MP40's for your size of tank. You'll probably want two to start with though, so it's not a recommendation for cost-savings. They still aren't optimal, IMO, for your size tank due to how short 15" is...just not much vertical room for you to accommodate your rock structure while at the same time keeping the pump from sucking air, and these pumps (more than most) depend on a clear shot and room to work.

To get you out of the $500+ price ballpark AND get you a reliable pump that's supremely flexible, I'd look at Tunze's non-controllable pumps.

You have tons of options, depending on what you want...including hiding the pumps inside custom rocks, $50.

Two 6045's would be awesome to start with and give you a degree of adjustability, $180.

Four 6015's would be an interesting twist or a good alternative if you have a lot of tall rocks/corals, $160.

Whichever config, run a simple timer to alternate flow from one side to the other every few hours like the tide and you'll make your SPS happy. (Switching a few times a day is fine - you're not making waves.)


If you wanted to spend a more-justified $500-ish, then I'd consider their controllable pumps. Optimum would probably be a pair of 7095's (not rock-compatible) and a set of cables for your Apex, $550 (+$20?).

Their flow is very wide, but their range of adjustability in power and flexibility in placement and direction of flow make it easy to place them perfectly, usually hidden from view. This would be enough power to take to your next tank.

One of my favorite features is that all of their pumps are easily maintainable with reasonably priced, very available parts in the rare event of breakdown. So these pumps can be considered an investment that will last rather than disposable.

-Matt

 

[mcarroll]

[...]Also I have had some trouble recently with the kalk. I'm not sure if the evaporation is not consistent, or whether the kalk is sinking to the bottom and its getting a more concentrated dose? (I notice its darker at the bottom?). Any thoughts? Or should I really consider getting a few of the dosing pumps and do 2-part?

Well, I do two-part as well as kalk...but what you pick depends on what you need.

If you're going to dose plain kalk, without question I'd do it through a Tunze 5074 kalk dispenser...probably using your ATO, but could be a doser. Using a reactor like this eliminates almost 100% of the gotchas of plain kalk.

There's no reason you HAVE to get dosing pumps to do two-part, but it does make things a lot easier. Whether you're at home or not, SPS tanks need to be dosed at least once a day.

I was able to keep a loaded 100-gallon SPS system running while dosing every day by hand, and working a crazy full-time job and having a life...so it can be done. Just don't underestimate the responsibility. I recommend dosing pumps as soon as you are able to....even if you don't start out with them.

BTW, you should be able to tell if evaporation is fairly consistent or not by how often you're refilling the reservoir. If it's too long to remember, then make a paper or digital log and write down the date every time you refill it. I use a dosing log for similar reasons.

-Matt

 

[ps2cho]

Nice post for the pumps. I currently have an MP10 in the tank right now and it seriously feels like it does nothing. I think it's because the tank is so wide. I even run the wp25 at 100%. Some people say the wp25 is too much for 100g tanks. Adding another mp10 just won't be enough unfortunately. I'll give the RW15 a try and I can always head your way with a few of the tunze pumps on a timer.

I will start tracking the evaporation and see what it's looking like.

 

[mcarroll]

Something with a flow pattern as wide as the Vortechs, but which is anchored at a 90º angle to the glass, really needs some space to work - vertical AND horizontal. I think it's the shallowness of the tank that's the root of the problem.

Ya, if you already have the mp10 and aren't satisfied, it will make a good trade-up item. Maybe the new pump will be the ticket though!

-Matt

 

[ps2cho]

I'm considering buying the Photon 24 and selling my value fixture to get more coverage...What do you think?

 

[mcarroll]

I'm not familiar with either fixture off-hand, but it's easy to figure out of you need a different light or not. A few details first.

Have you measured your current coverage with some kind of light meter? (A lux meter is cheap or free and a good place to start.) What are your measurements at the water surface?

-Matt

 

[ps2cho]

Would my phone work with a lux app?

 

[mcarroll]

Good enough! Just be careful...."close" to the water surface is close enough!

At minimum find the peak and lowest lighting areas...you may find other interesting things to note as well.

-Matt

 

[ps2cho]

Will the numbers actually give me anything tangible other than "high and low". Like Par-wise?

Also my PO4 is currently 0.04. Should I still increase feeding a little or keep where it is?