Seachem Purigen - Does it Really Remove Nitrates?

[that Reef Guy]

Seachem Purigen - Does it Really Remove Nitrates?

I ask because my Nitrates have been rising from using Reef Roids and Reef Chili so I am trying to lower them.

Someone told me they use Seachem Purigen to remove Nitrates and according to the Web Site it says it does indeed do that.

But we all know that there are a lot of Snake Oils in this Hobby like Purple Up.

So my Question is is it really as good as I was told for removing Nitrates?

Do you guys use it?

Have you tried it and found it to not be affective?

Here is a Link to the Product if you are not Familiar with it.

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Purigen.html

Seachem. Purigen

 

[that Reef Guy]

Anybody have an opinion about this?

 

[saltyphish]

I use with chemipure blue in my biocube. Always used it in that set up so I can't give any comparisons but my nitrates and phosphates read low around 2 nitrate and 0 phosphates. I use coral frenzy and alt. with reef chili. I also add Fuel. I also use a ATS in my back reservoir as well so take that for what it's worth. I kind of have multiple methods for removal which is a big factor.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Purigen does not directly remove nitrate to any big extent.

It removes organic matter before it can break down into nitrate, however.

That's the same for a skimmer or GAC.

 

[Shep]

Purigen does not directly remove nitrate to any big extent.

It removes organic matter before it can break down into nitrate, however.

That's the same for a skimmer or GAC.

So in your expert opinion is it worth using to help control nitrate levels?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

If nitrate is the concern, I'd use other methods. My nitrate article should post tomorrow (or soon) at Reef Edition at Reef2Reef. It will cover most of the best methods.

If organics is the concern, Purigen is a good choice.

 

[Rjramos]

I use with chemipure blue in my biocube. Always used it in that set up so I can't give any comparisons but my nitrates and phosphates read low around 2 nitrate and 0 phosphates. I use coral frenzy and alt. with reef chili. I also add Fuel. I also use a ATS in my back reservoir as well so take that for what it's worth. I kind of have multiple methods for removal which is a big factor.

I use the same on my biocube 29, except I'm using the chemipure elite instead, I was reading the container of CP blue at LFS and couldn't figure if it would be better. Does anyone know the difference in what they contain? Does one compliment the purigen better than the other? I also have a refugium in the back that is packed with chaeto. My nitrates and phosphates are at zero with a pretty good bioload.:angel:

 

[that Reef Guy]

If nitrate is the concern, I'd use other methods. My nitrate article should post tomorrow (or soon) at Reef Edition at Reef2Reef. It will cover most of the best methods.

If organics is the concern, Purigen is a good choice.

Can you post the link to the article please.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Can you post the link to the article please.

Sure. It came out today:

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION

 

[FranklinDattein]

I have about 200ml of Purigen for over an year and it has never changed colours.
It is a 200l ULN tank, with a powerfull skimmer, vinegar dosing and GFO. For this setup the Purigen has never done anything IMO.
Provided it is a ultra low nutrient system, it is expected Purigen wouldn't do much, anyway.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I have about 200ml of Purigen for over an year and it has never changed colours.
It is a 200l ULN tank, with a powerfull skimmer, vinegar dosing and GFO. For this setup the Purigen has never done anything IMO.
Provided it is a ultra low nutrient system, it is expected Purigen wouldn't do much, anyway.

I don't think a ULNS system necessarily says there isn't organic matter in the water (powerful skimmer can help, however).

After a year, I'd expect the Purigen in your system isn't doing anything much as it is almost certainly coated with bacteria and organic matter.

 

[macscale]

Honestly, I don't think Purigen is Seachems best product.
It's affects may lower nitrates but it doesn't directly remove them If I remember correctly.
I actually had a problem with my Phosphates after using it and I had to switch to Phosguard, which I love.
I run my systems with low nitrates around 2-3ppm, so there isn't a lot for it to remove anyway...

 

[that Reef Guy]

Honestly, I don't think Purigen is Seachems best product.
It's affects may lower nitrates but it doesn't directly remove them If I remember correctly.
I actually had a problem with my Phosphates after using it and I had to switch to Phosguard, which I love.
I run my systems with low nitrates around 2-3ppm, so there isn't a lot for it to remove anyway...

So what would Seachems best product for Nitrate Removal be then?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

So what would Seachems best product for Nitrate Removal be then?

While it isn't a product that I'd use in most circumstances, to literally answer that question, it is probably Seachem Matrix, a media to allow bacteria to grow in low O2 regions and use up nitrate in the process.

I discuss nitrate removal methods here:

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION

 

[g6gang]

While it isn't a product that I'd use in most circumstances, to literally answer that question, it is probably Seachem Matrix, a media to allow bacteria to grow in low O2 regions and use up nitrate in the process.

I discuss nitrate removal methods here:

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION

Randy - great article as always. Is there any comparison on the rate of each method working? Would one method be better at handling an immediate reduction in the event of a spike as opposed to a long term solution.

reason I ask is, I believe i did not recognize my RODI setup needed changing of media for the past month or two and now my Nitrate is reading 30-40ppm. My DSB refugium with macro (gracileria) is still mature to do much. I have purigen running for two weeks (it is turning color) but have not noticed a change in Nitrate params. Curiously, my Red Cyano has gone away, but green film algae (I think) grew quicker. So I think right now, I should do agrressive water changes and see if it can get under control, but would like some 'help' with other methods until the refugium can get kick started. I also just beefed up my CUC (Sand sifting Goby, serpant star, bristle worms). I was also looking at Probido dosing, but I think that takes a while to have an effect as well.

 

[HawkeyeDJ]

Sure. It came out today:

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION

Just read it. Very informative. Thank you for it.

 

[thewire]

I don't use Purigen on my nano but i scheduled my water change right after i feed my corals on roids. Spot feeding them then water change!

 

[Mbritt]

While it isn't a product that I'd use in most circumstances, to literally answer that question, it is probably Seachem Matrix, a media to allow bacteria to grow in low O2 regions and use up nitrate in the process.

I discuss nitrate removal methods here:

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION

Randy, i have a 60 gallon Innovative marine tank with skimmer and have some nitrate issues. Reading the articles and additional article on vinegar dosing i have a few questions.

1 - you have a chart with numers of vinegar per week based on gallons but no measurement. I assume this is millilitres based on additional discussion in the article.

2. In an all in one type setup how long do you need to keep the skimmer off?

Thanks

 

[Gregg @ ADP]

While it isn't a product that I'd use in most circumstances, to literally answer that question, it is probably Seachem Matrix, a media to allow bacteria to grow in low O2 regions and use up nitrate in the process.

I discuss nitrate removal methods here:

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION

A few years ago, I started modifying some of my sumps so that a portion of the water coming in would flow down through a bunch of filter pad/sponge that was underwater, and then up into the refugium chamber through what was effectively a reverse plenum. I hypothesized that by having a relatively small volume of water first going through 18-24” of submerged media, aerobic bacteria would use up most/all of the oxygen so that by the time the water began to flow up through the deep sand bed, it was hypoxic and would enable anaerobic bacteria to start handling the nitrates.

Of course, being lazy and having a short attention span, I never actually formally tested any of it, nor did I ever do anything to test O2 levels in the water coming up through the sand.

But, the nitrates in the tanks I’ve done this in stay <10ppm, so…good enough for me.

 

[HB AL]

I have limited space for equipment on my 180g because it is in my bedroom so I only have the area in the stand for stuff. So I have a simple system that works for the big bioload in my tank to keep things under steady controI.. I have a big sump loaded with rock, rubble etc... and a skimmer and I have bags of Purigen, Phosgaurd and carbon. I also dose Nopox. That might all change after I read @Randy Holmes-Farley 's article if it fits my situation.