I don't have need for them, sorry, I use white light.Speaking of pictures - any recommendations of a phone camera filter to prevent the pictures being washed out? Amazon has a lot, but I'd trust word-of-mouth if folks have one they like.
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I don't have need for them, sorry, I use white light.Speaking of pictures - any recommendations of a phone camera filter to prevent the pictures being washed out? Amazon has a lot, but I'd trust word-of-mouth if folks have one they like.
You see my pictures and how they come out. This is an iPhone with an lens filterSpeaking of pictures - any recommendations of a phone camera filter to prevent the pictures being washed out? Amazon has a lot, but I'd trust word-of-mouth if folks have one they like.
Taken from an internet source. There are dozens upon dozens of sources via Google stating essentially the same but you are welcome to your opinion. I'll stick with more fact then fiction.There is so much wrong with this comment. I don’t even know where to start.
I suggest you do some more research on what the red field ratio is, what it actually was originally applied too and the difference between N, P and No3, Po4.
And here is one from Reef Builders, (RIP) running 100 to 1 ratio nitrates to phosphate. So there are different methods of approach as each tank is unique and what works for one may not work for the otherThere is so much wrong with this comment. I don’t even know where to start.
I suggest you do some more research on what the red field ratio is, what it actually was originally applied too and the difference between N, P and No3, Po4.
Do you have to send a tank photo in with the water sample?his examination of the hundreds of thousands of ICP tests that Fauna Marin had run he also found this 100:1 ratio to produce the most colorful corals
That’s all well and good but has absolutely nothing to do with the red field ratio. And not what you just told the OP.And here is one from Reef Builders, (RIP) running 100 to 1 ratio nitrates to phosphate. So there are different methods of approach as each tank is unique and what works for one may not work for the other
Interestingly at MACNA last year I was discussing this with Claude Schumacher of Fauna Marin and he said on his coral farm and in his examination of the hundreds of thousands of ICP tests that Fauna Marin had run he also found this 100:1 ratio to produce the most colorful corals. Having this confirmation, I now run all of my tanks at this 100:1 ratio and regardless of the phosphate level the nitrate level is always boosted up so that it is 100 times that of the phosphate.
True because you need to actually measure nitrogen and phosphorus numbers to actually look at redfield ratio right?That’s all well and good but has absolutely nothing to do with the red field ratio. And not what you just told the OP.
I do agree with you, and many others on the 100:1 NITRATE TO PHOSPHATE ratio. It is also how I try to run my tank.
But again this is not the red field ratio.
There are 0 credible sources saying “essentially the same” and it’s not my opinion either.Taken from an internet source. There are dozens upon dozens of sources via Google stating essentially the same but you are welcome to your opinion. I'll stick with more fact then fiction.
Having 0 nitrate doesn’t necessarily mean your tank is nitrogen limited. Nitrate is only 1 form of nitrogen.True because you need to actually measure nitrogen and phosphorus numbers to actually look at redfield ratio right?
I think the OP should understand that with 0 nitrates it's difficult to bring down phosphate correct?
Maybe. It can desorb for a long time with any phosphate reduction method. GFO works without the organic need for nitrogen, as does Lanthanum and calcium carbonate. That said, your levels are not catastrophically high.The rock was from a previous setup, so maybe it's leaching PO4
Do nitrates and phosphate make up a portion of overall nitrogen and phosphorous in a reef tank? Do they represent a component of measure when looking at the redfield ratio overall?There are 0 credible sources saying “essentially the same” and it’s not my opinion either.
The red field ratio is a ratio of C:N : P found in ocean phytoplankton. Has absolutely nothing to do with nitrate or phosphate in your water column.
The local reefing club is going to buy a par meter, so I plan to grab that asap. But for my lighting I'm using the Red Sea LED 90s using their arms, so they're fixed at a height of ~8.5" over the water. What I've done is use the video BRS did () to get an idea of what my par MIGHT be based on distance from the surface of the water. By no means is this perfect, I admit that, but I thought it was better than nothing.What needs to be understood here is that everyone’s tank different and we have people both with low nitrates and high nitrates and they all have success. There’s so many variables at play
I posted my test data and pictures of my tank. I frequently test zero nitrates, but usually 1-2. I got lazy with my tracking app, and I got lazy with testing because my tank is thriving and every-time I test it’s basically the same thing. Very low phosphates and very low nitrates.
Let’s step back and actually try to help the OP with his issue.
1) you shoud rent a par meter. I don’t know if any led fixture that is supposed to be run at 100%. But I’m unfamiliar with yours so I could be wrong you need a lar meter to see what you are getting on your rocks and sand bed. You said this starts when you increased light from 50-100. How did everything look when the lights were at 50%? My leds are different, but I run them at 40-45%. I have two other smaller tanks and they are in the 50-60% range for blues and white are about 10%
2) yes you brought over established rock but some was old rock. New rock will go through phases while it builds up the surface layers of beneficial bacteria and coatings that make it “life rock”. Part of those phases is brown dusting, algae, etc
New dry rock could be leaching silicates or other substances
The rock that was transfered could have had some die off being put in a new system with new conditions. This could trigger a cycle
And finally, new water in a new tank will have zero phosphate. Your rock could have phosphates bound up in it. When you put that in pristine clean water, it needs to equalize and it will leach/detach into the water column. You change the water, rub gfo, whatever, shortly after you do that, the rock will leach more and it will go back to the number you were at. Eventually, with food husbandry and proper feeding; the rock will run out of bound up phosphates. As this happens the phosphates that leach out and become exposed to light will grow into hair algae. This process can take weeks or months to complete