Acro loosing tissue from the tips

Reefahholic

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Implemented advice! let's see what happens
Blue is much more gentle. Also, maybe bump down the Reds and Greens down. Not sure where you have them.

This may help for some solid proven settings. See total period, peak period, and intensity levels of the individual channels.


Although many people run 12hrs with different peak periods. Some as long as 14-16 hrs. I personally try to stick with God’s 12 hr days. He created everything like that so I figure it’s good for me too. :) I’ve done anywhere from 4-6 hrs peak, and the results seem to be close to the same depending upon PAR. DLI is something to look into.
 
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ovi_vl

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Do you have any emerald crabs or anything in your tank? It looks like it’s being eaten by something most likely at night.
No , just a red legged hermit , he is very peacefull , likes to hang out in the stylo milka.
 

dwest

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If you are using phosphate removal media like GFO, I’d stop.

You asked earlier if you should clip the tips, and I personally would do that. Plus, I would then dab the cut area on the frag with superglue.

I prefer to run alkalinity in the 7-8 dKH range with nitrates and phosphates easily detectable by test kits. Your low phosphates number would concern me a bit and hence my GFO comment above.

Your lighting changes may help too.

It seems to me that you have lots of good things going. So if this acro doesn’t make, just know it sometimes happens.
 

East1

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I disagree, clipping the tips will stress the coral - better leave it to settle, it'll grow over those relatively fast when it's recovered.

Lowering the photoperiod / intensity will help (corals care about the intensity and the amount of time together as a function, so high intensity for 8h can provide the same needs as low intensity for longer for example) because as this looks like a nutrient issue, it'll help the coral from burning too much of it's own tissue to compensate for the higher metabolism strong light gives.
 
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ovi_vl

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I disagree, clipping the tips will stress the coral - better leave it to settle, it'll grow over those relatively fast when it's recovered.

Lowering the photoperiod / intensity will help (corals care about the intensity and the amount of time together as a function, so high intensity for 8h can provide the same needs as low intensity for longer for example) because as this looks like a nutrient issue, it'll help the coral from burning too much of it's own tissue to compensate for the higher metabolism strong light gives.
So, i tested today using jbl aquatest pro , no3 seems to be between - 10-20 ppm , and po4 between 0.1 and 0.2 ppm (the colour shades are hard to tell apart), i have other sps like , montiporas and stylophora , and all are doing fine.
 

East1

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So, i tested today using jbl aquatest pro , no3 seems to be between - 10-20 ppm , and po4 between 0.1 and 0.2 ppm (the colour shades are hard to tell apart), i have other sps like , montiporas and stylophora , and all are doing fine.
more than absolute levels, the level the tank it was in, and the amount of light it received factors in, so chances are it just came from a more shaded tank and the increased light pushed it - and if that tank had different nutrient levels to yours, it could make it worse.

but looking at the photos now if it's polyps are out as the most recent pics I'd expect it will recover.
 

etcee

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I had this exact problem in my 20gal waterbox with SPS. I had this problem for months, on and off. The tissue would recede, and then grow back, and the cycle would repeat; it drove me crazy. I also noticed a loss of coralline at times when this happened. After adding Kalkwasser and not letting my PH below 8.0 I never saw this again.
 

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