Anyone else successful with cleaner wrasse long term?

[revhtree]

Great topic!

 

[renato120]

I have mine for 3 months! He is doing great so far!
Eats everything including sea weed... I put my hands in the tank and He loves to pick on my arms.... I hope He doesnt die.

 

[TUSI]

Am I a lucky man then cause I bought mine 8 yrs ago and still going

 

[The Macro Guy]

Had the chance to finally get a cleaner wrasse at a LFS, made sure it was eating prepaired befor hand. Only 1 out of 4 even acknowleged the food existed. Its a baby still, but thankfully it also eats flake if I crush it up small enough. That was one thing I noticed on mine, was that it ignored foods bigger than its mouth.

 

[TJ's Reef]

I had stayed away from and discouraged others from keeping as well for many years in a misguided belief that they were obligate cleaners that needed to eat parasites and what not. After finally having one now for several months I stand by my belief that they are indeed obligate cleaners but not as I'd originally understood. IMHO, they need to be actively cleaning others not actively eating parasites. Having enough fish, especially larger and more accommodating species like Tangs satisfy there hard-wiring desire to service. Now a favorite Fish in my Reeftank and is satisfied in its needs in having 5 Tangs, 4 Anthias, 4 Wrasses and an Angel who all are willing to daily cleaning/inspection.

Cheers, Todd

 

[jerky48183]

I've had my 3 year also and eats the same.

 

[gacolt]

i have never lost one but never had one long term.my buddy has had his for 6years.i have had one for a year.from what i was told only buy african cleaner wrasse

 

[Kworker]

I've read the cleaners that originate from the red sea generally adapt better to captivity. I have no experience with the fish however. I would love to get one once I get a few more fish in my tank.

 

[Mike&Terry]

Am I a lucky man then cause I bought mine 8 yrs ago and still going

That is fantastic! I just asked a friend earlier today how long he has had his cleaner wrasse and he said 10 to 11 years.

 

[4FordFamily]

Wow these guys can be long lived!

 

[zesty]

I had stayed away from and discouraged others from keeping as well for many years in a misguided belief that they were obligate cleaners that needed to eat parasites and what not. After finally having one now for several months I stand by my belief that they are indeed obligate cleaners but not as I'd originally understood. IMHO, they need to be actively cleaning others not actively eating parasites. Having enough fish, especially larger and more accommodating species like Tangs satisfy there hard-wiring desire to service. Now a favorite Fish in my Reeftank and is satisfied in its needs in having 5 Tangs, 4 Anthias, 4 Wrasses and an Angel who all are willing to daily cleaning/inspection.

Cheers, Todd

If I understand your post, I'll paraphrase in my words. If they get their "instinct" soothed (so to say) and that could be a stress-reliever for the cleaner? This pairing "could" be a part of a successful environment for this particular fish? Whether they are actively cleaning or just going thru the motions.

I've always stayed away just from the other warnings I've seen.

 

[4FordFamily]

If I understand your post, I'll paraphrase in my words. If they get their "instinct" soothed (so to say) and that could be a stress-reliever for the cleaner? This pairing "could" be a part of a successful environment for this particular fish? Whether they are actively cleaning or just going thru the motions.

I've always stayed away just from the other warnings I've seen.

This makes sense intuitively

 

[evolved]

Okay, I'm going to rant for a minute... Hang tight.

Cleaner wrasses should be avoided for reef aquaria.

For more than one reason:

• Some studies have shown removal of this species from wild reefs negatively impacts the health of the reef
  • In their wild environment, these fish set up "cleaning stations" which other reef fish come to be cleaned, and have dead scales/tissue removed from them
• They have exceptionally poor survival rates in aquaria
  • For every success story, there are hundreds of failures
• It may not be possible to sustain them on prepared foods alone
  • IMO, they still need some amount of dead tissue/scales from other fish in their diet

We quarantine all of our fish, so no ectoparasites on the menu. He eats mucous, scales, dead skin (along with an occasional nip of flesh, lol).

And that's an important point; a misnomer and a common misconception.
These fish primarily clean dead tissue/scales from fish, not actual parasites. It's the dead tissue which is their primary diet.


If you must own a cleaner wrasse, these are some important points:

Only buy the species Labroides dimidiatus collected via Africa. For some reason, probably which lies in collection methods, those collected from Africa fair better in captivity.

You need a large tank (150+ gallons) with several larger fish. By it's own nature, the cleaner wrasse will attempt to "clean" (feed from) the fish in the tank. It's going to pester some fish, and could even stress some to death. If there are several large fish which will tolerate being cleaned, your chances of success will improve. The more large fish, the better. If you lack large fish, or only have 1-2 large fish, the cleaner may prove to be too stressful towards your tank's inhabitants.

DO NOT BUY A "HAWAIIAN CLEANER WRASSE" (Labroides phthirophagus)
This species has an extremely poor survival rate in aquaria. Think 0.1%. I know of only two people who have ever spoken of long term (>1 year) success with this species.

Buyer beware: Not all "cleaner wrasses" are actually cleaner wrasses
Some species sold as "cleaner wrasses" are not. While they perform cleaning duties as juvi's, as adults they are obligate corallivores. ie - they only feed on coral polyps. And in these cases, SPS polyps to be specific. The two best examples here: "Yellow-tail tubelip" (Diproctacanthus xanthurus) and the "Red Sea cleaner" (Larabicus quadrilineatus).

I wish I could afford a tamarin!

Side note, but not all species of Anampses are expensive. Some are regularly under $100 retail.

 

[TJ's Reef]

If I understand your post, I'll paraphrase in my words. If they get their "instinct" soothed (so to say) and that could be a stress-reliever for the cleaner? This pairing "could" be a part of a successful environment for this particular fish? Whether they are actively cleaning or just going thru the motions.

I've always stayed away just from the other warnings I've seen.

Zesty, exactly what I meant. After observing mine for months it definitely has a routine and actively goes about its 'Job' with a tank full of willing participants. He/she eats most everything fed to the tank including the Nori but is most fond of frozen Mysis and Blood Worms. And like my Cleaner Shrimps will actively clean your hand/arm while inside the aquarium. I certainly think that they as a species are more prone to stress in trans-shipping practices being isolated for a undetermined time period and caged up so to say. Personally I have come to believe that they are GREAT Reeftank Fish IF there are enough other and willing tank mates to allow to "do it's thing" and can see why it would not do so well in a smaller system with small number of fish.

Cheers, Todd

 

[eatbreakfast]

There is a lot of misunderstood premises about cleaner wrasses and a lot of information that has been updated by science and has not caught up with aquarists, as well as changes in their capturing, shipping and care that have advanced making them far more suitable, though not without meeting certain criteria, in aquaria.

Okay, I'm going to rant for a minute... Hang tight.

Cleaner wrasses should be avoided for reef aquaria.

For more than one reason:

• Some studies have shown removal of this species from wild reefs negatively impacts the health of the reef
  • In their wild environment, these fish set up "cleaning stations" which other reef fish come to be cleaned, and have dead scales/tissue removed from them

The studies citing the impact of their removal do not take into account reef recruitment of post larval juveniles. Established cleaners do not tolerate rivals near their cleaning stations, so juveniles that try to settle are chased away, in many cases not able to find a suitable location. So when mature cleaners are removed they are replaced quite quickly.

• They have exceptionally poor survival rates in aquaria
  • For every success story, there are hundreds of failures

Many of the failures with this fish are due to the fact that they are frequently sold as a cure-all for disease and parasites in aquaria, which is far from the truth. In many cases where there is failure it is going to a tank with sub standard husbandry, as it is being placed with sick fish and poor water quality without enough properly sized fish for it to "clean". But in tanks with proper husbandry, as we can see from this thread, they can be kept successfully by a large percentage of those that attempt them.

• It may not be possible to sustain them on prepared foods alone
  • IMO, they still need some amount of dead tissue/scales from other fish in their diet

And that's an important point; a misnomer and a common misconception.
These fish primarily clean dead tissue/scales from fish, not actual parasites. It's the dead tissue which is their primary diet.

This is true, that prepared foods alone do not sustain them and that dead tissue/scales are important, but their preferred, and most nutritious food is actually mucus from the other fish's slime coat. So being in a tank with enough other fish is paramount for aquarium survival.

If you must own a cleaner wrasse, these are some important points:

Only buy the species Labroides dimidiatus collected via Africa. For some reason, probably which lies in collection methods, those collected from Africa fair better in captivity.

Due to improved collection from the Philippines and Indonesia I have found it is no longer necessary to only source cleaner wrasses from Africa. In the past those other nations were notorious for cyanide collection and poor care of fishes prior to transport. Shipments from these locales have had much greater success in recent years, not just with cleaner wrasses, but with all fish

You need a large tank (150+ gallons) with several larger fish. By it's own nature, the cleaner wrasse will attempt to "clean" (feed from) the fish in the tank. It's going to pester some fish, and could even stress some to death. If there are several large fish which will tolerate being cleaned, your chances of success will improve. The more large fish, the better. If you lack large fish, or only have 1-2 large fish, the cleaner may prove to be too stressful towards your tank's inhabitants.

This is probably the volume needed, though this is a principle and not a rule, each tank is different.

DO NOT BUY A "HAWAIIAN CLEANER WRASSE" (Labroides phthirophagus)
This species has an extremely poor survival rate in aquaria. Think 0.1%. I know of only two people who have ever spoken of long term (>1 year) success with this species.

This cleaner does have lower survival rates than L. dimidiatus, though IME it is about 50/50, still low enough where I personally wont try one. But I have found that many of the delicate Hawaiian fish have a worse record in captivity than their congeners, take for example the potters wrasse compared to other leopard wrasses as well as the potters angel compared to other dwarf angels.

I had stayed away from and discouraged others from keeping as well for many years in a misguided belief that they were obligate cleaners that needed to eat parasites and what not. After finally having one now for several months I stand by my belief that they are indeed obligate cleaners but not as I'd originally understood. IMHO, they need to be actively cleaning others not actively eating parasites. Having enough fish, especially larger and more accommodating species like Tangs satisfy there hard-wiring desire to service. Now a favorite Fish in my Reeftank and is satisfied in its needs in having 5 Tangs, 4 Anthias, 4 Wrasses and an Angel who all are willing to daily cleaning/inspection.

Cheers, Todd

They are primarily looking for the mucus of the slime coat, as studies have shown it is their preferred food source.

 

[4FordFamily]

Interesting read folks. I have kept one other cleaner wrasse long term. Had him two years but back then (Some 5 years ago) I did go through probably six before I was successful. That's when I stopped buying them. I tried again a bit over a year ago and was very successful with them. Highly anecdotal "evidence" but that's my experience nonetheless

 

[evolved]

The studies citing the impact of their removal do not take into account reef recruitment of post larval juveniles. Established cleaners do not tolerate rivals near their cleaning stations, so juveniles that try to settle are chased away, in many cases not able to find a suitable location. So when mature cleaners are removed they are replaced quite quickly.

Right; I didn't tell the whole story in that no studies have been done to show how quickly a reef repopulates with new cleaners, but I'd agree it's probably pretty quick.

This is true, that prepared foods alone do not sustain them and that dead tissue/scales are important, but their preferred, and most nutritious food is actually mucus from the other fish's slime coat. So being in a tank with enough other fish is paramount for aquarium survival.

Thank you for the correction.

Due to improved collection from the Philippines and Indonesia I have found it is no longer necessary to only source cleaner wrasses from Africa. In the past those other nations were notorious for cyanide collection and poor care of fishes prior to transport. Shipments from these locales have had much greater success in recent years, not just with cleaner wrasses, but with all fish.

I had not heard this yet (others besides those collected via Africa); thank you.

This is probably the volume needed, though this is a principle and not a rule, each tank is different.

Sure, and even following those principals won't ensure success either.

This cleaner does have lower survival rates than L. dimidiatus, though IME it is about 50/50, still low enough where I personally wont try one.

That's much higher (50/50) than I've ever heard anyone attest to (not debating; I just find that observation interesting). Sure, I'm intentionally exaggerating with "Think 0.1%", but I hate to see people buying this species without knowing what they're up against. It's such an attractive species it easily catches people's eyes, and then the price is usually just as attractive... Not a good recipe.

But I have found that many of the delicate Hawaiian fish have a worse record in captivity than their congeners, take for example the potters wrasse compared to other leopard wrasses as well as the potters angel compared to other dwarf angels.

But is this really something to do with Hawaiian fish, or just the fish which are regularly collected in Hawaii? We could counter this with plenty of other examples of Hawaiian fish which are conversely easy to keep. Not to derail the topic, because this topic certainly could!

 

[JBNY]

I have had one in my 270G tank for a little more than two years. I got him when, although no new fish had been introduced for over three years, a mysterious attack of ich was wiping out my fish. Put him in, he immediately started picking off parasites from the fish. ich disappeared within a week or two. The wrasse now eats frozen food, all the fish still present themselves for cleaning on a regular basis. He still looks them over and very occasionally he picks something off.

 

[4FordFamily]

I have had one in my 270G tank for a little more than two years. I got him when, although no new fish had been introduced for over three years, a mysterious attack of ich was wiping out my fish. Put him in, he immediately started picking off parasites from the fish. ich disappeared within a week or two. The wrasse now eats frozen food, all the fish still present themselves for cleaning on a regular basis. He still looks them over and very occasionally he picks something off.

In my experience and from what I have read, cleaner wrasse rarely if ever eat ich. Ich cleared up because the fish were healthy, eating well, and not stressed. IMO ich is not a big deal if your fish are established, healthy, in a healthy environment with lots of flow, and not fragile species. I am rarely if ever concerned about ich.

Ich clearing up after adding a cleaner wrasse was merely a coincidence. IMO IME

 

[JBNY]

Could have been a coincidence, I had not had ich in the tank in well over ten years, and no fish were added in about 3 years, then one day ich all over one of my flame angles, over the course of 6 weeks I lost 7 fish, two that I had had for 14 years. Then it went away, that is the only disease I have had in my tank before or since.