Automatic Water changes. It doesnt get any better then this.
- Thread starter AquamanE
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You would have to wire in a relay and a level probe that would stop the fill. It would be a normally closed contact then if the level switch was made it would engage the relay and open the circuit stopping the water change from happening. You could add an alarm or light to signal the user or even tie it into your tank controller.
gtbarsi
Well-Known Member
I ordered two, I will measure the amp draw and post my findings for all that might be interested.
Since I do not have a controller (yet) I will be stuck working with a simple timer and buckets (for now).
Since I do not have a controller (yet) I will be stuck working with a simple timer and buckets (for now).
Sacohen
Valuable Member
Yeah, I'm now where ready to start doing this. I just got permission for the wife to move the tank so I'm planing that out, but the prices on these were good and I didn't want to miss out on them so I bought them and they will probably sit for a while until I get around to them. I still have a chiller I got in July waiting to be installed because I don't want to re-plumb the tank until I get my DC-3000 pump and now do the move.
OP
OP
AquamanE
Well-Known Member
My plan is to put a float switch in the SW barrel. And yes shut pump off at that level and alarm.
I hovever am a Apex idiot. Need to fiqure out best way.
Any ideas? what is a break out box?
decription of what would be needed. My SW barrel is 30 feet away throu a concrete wall. I already have the tubing coming in, but if i put anything electrical i have to run electrical wire to apex from garage, unless one of the Apex gadgets allows me otherwise.
Again, ideas?
KoleTang
Valuable Member
Do you have the hobbyist-written guide? (http://www.neptunesystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Comprehensive-Reference-Manual-.pdf)
ronnie
Acro addict
Run a USB cable to the area. I just bought two each of these:
15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Male 28/24AWG Cable (Gold Plated) - Monoprice.com
15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension 28/24AWG Cable (Gold Plated) - Monoprice.com
That gives me 60ft of USB to work with.
Then you'll need an additional EB4 or EB8 and a PM1 and plug it in near the equipment. Buy a breakout box or DIY one and then you can wire float switches up to it and program them to turn pumps off when floats are either high or low. You can also program to email you on certain conditions as well.
My plan is to run a reservoir of fresh water along with mixed saltwater. Both having high and low floats. The dosing pumps will be plugged into the EB8 and will turn on and off based on my allotted timing needs on how much water is being pulled.
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No need to get too complex with a fail safe. The pump runs off of 12volts so a relay can be powered by the same source as the pump and a inline float switch is connected to the trigger of the relay. Float switch sits near to bottom of the salt bin.
I received another 2 pumps today. So I loaded my single motor with three heads like I planned, and let it run for 30 mins straight at 7 volts. Amp draw was about 2.5. I was more interested in how the motor would handle it, I figured heat would give me a good idea, after 30 mins it was barely even warm.
One of the pumps today came with a date on it is was from 2006, so the motor is pretty old. On the one I plan on using full time I'm going to put a new motor on it, just so I can keep track of it. Also the pumps I received today where in prefect shape, 29 for the pump head alone is a crazy deal the heads normally cost 150 bucks. And now I have 4 drives so if I plan on buying more master flex heads for random dosing ill have extra drives.
I received another 2 pumps today. So I loaded my single motor with three heads like I planned, and let it run for 30 mins straight at 7 volts. Amp draw was about 2.5. I was more interested in how the motor would handle it, I figured heat would give me a good idea, after 30 mins it was barely even warm.
One of the pumps today came with a date on it is was from 2006, so the motor is pretty old. On the one I plan on using full time I'm going to put a new motor on it, just so I can keep track of it. Also the pumps I received today where in prefect shape, 29 for the pump head alone is a crazy deal the heads normally cost 150 bucks. And now I have 4 drives so if I plan on buying more master flex heads for random dosing ill have extra drives.
OP
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AquamanE
Well-Known Member
PLEASE elaborate. I have an EB8 with an avaialble USB port. But dont understand the rest, AGAIN, i set up a nice WC system, but am a APEX Idiot!!.
Pm1, break out box????? huh???
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ronnie
Acro addict
You need the PM1 or PM2 for the control port. Unless you can use the one on the base module (distance may be a problem)
Salinity Module: PM2 - Neptune Systems - Bulk Reef Supply
pH/ORP Probe Module: PM1 - Neptune Systems - Bulk Reef Supply
I have a PM2 and bought the salinity probe. I may use it to monitor salinity in my water change vat, but haven't decided. Currently I'm using it to monitor the salinity on my tank.
Then you need the breakout box:
Bulk Reef Supply - Search Results for Breakout box
Then you'll need some float switches to wire them into the breakout box.
Standard Generic Float Switch - Bulk Reef Supply
The breakout box has seven prongs for wires from the float switches - one is a common ground, and the other six are available for the float switches. So you could program six different commands based on each prong from the breakout box. You can even double up if you have more than six floats but they ultimately control the same things (turn off skimmer and return pump for example if you have a couple of "high water level" float switches).
So then you build the logic into the apex that says the following: if water level low (float switch down) in the new saltwater container, then do not run the pumps and email me to let me know this switch is low.
You can also set up a "high" float switch in the sump to state if switch is high, then do not run water change pumps.
Salinity Module: PM2 - Neptune Systems - Bulk Reef Supply
pH/ORP Probe Module: PM1 - Neptune Systems - Bulk Reef Supply
I have a PM2 and bought the salinity probe. I may use it to monitor salinity in my water change vat, but haven't decided. Currently I'm using it to monitor the salinity on my tank.
Then you need the breakout box:
Bulk Reef Supply - Search Results for Breakout box
Then you'll need some float switches to wire them into the breakout box.
Standard Generic Float Switch - Bulk Reef Supply
The breakout box has seven prongs for wires from the float switches - one is a common ground, and the other six are available for the float switches. So you could program six different commands based on each prong from the breakout box. You can even double up if you have more than six floats but they ultimately control the same things (turn off skimmer and return pump for example if you have a couple of "high water level" float switches).
So then you build the logic into the apex that says the following: if water level low (float switch down) in the new saltwater container, then do not run the pumps and email me to let me know this switch is low.
You can also set up a "high" float switch in the sump to state if switch is high, then do not run water change pumps.
OP
OP
AquamanE
Well-Known Member
No need to get too complex with a fail safe. The pump runs off of 12volts so a relay can be powered by the same source as the pump and a inline float switch is connected to the trigger of the relay. Float switch sits near to bottom of the salt bin.
I received another 2 pumps today. So I loaded my single motor with three heads like I planned, and let it run for 30 mins straight at 7 volts. Amp draw was about 2.5. I was more interested in how the motor would handle it, I figured heat would give me a good idea, after 30 mins it was barely even warm.
One of the pumps today came with a date on it is was from 2006, so the motor is pretty old. On the one I plan on using full time I'm going to put a new motor on it, just so I can keep track of it. Also the pumps I received today where in prefect shape, 29 for the pump head alone is a crazy deal the heads normally cost 150 bucks. And now I have 4 drives so if I plan on buying more master flex heads for random dosing ill have extra drives.
Man...with all due respect, those pumps look really skimpy. I certainly hope it works out for the long run cause it will then be very affordable, but IMHO they look like toys compared to the Stenner.
hwell::squigglemouth::neutral:The peristalsic pumps are only slightly smaller, BUT THE MOTOR?????? :hammer:
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Swine
Well-Known Member
No need to get too complex with a fail safe. The pump runs off of 12volts so a relay can be powered by the same source as the pump and a inline float switch is connected to the trigger of the relay. Float switch sits near to bottom of the salt bin.
I received another 2 pumps today. So I loaded my single motor with three heads like I planned, and let it run for 30 mins straight at 7 volts. Amp draw was about 2.5. I was more interested in how the motor would handle it, I figured heat would give me a good idea, after 30 mins it was barely even warm.
One of the pumps today came with a date on it is was from 2006, so the motor is pretty old. On the one I plan on using full time I'm going to put a new motor on it, just so I can keep track of it. Also the pumps I received today where in prefect shape, 29 for the pump head alone is a crazy deal the heads normally cost 150 bucks. And now I have 4 drives so if I plan on buying more master flex heads for random dosing ill have extra drives.
So if I am seeing this correctly you purchased three of these but just used one motor and rigged new rods and a drive shaft? Oh and bought new tubing ect.
Thermofisher D3138 13 w Masterflex 7024 20 Pump Multichannel Clear Polycarbonate | eBay
Man...with all due respect, those pumps look really skimpy. I certainly hope it works out for the long run cause it will then be very affordable, but IMHO they look like toys compared to the Stenner.
The peristalsic pumps are only slightly smaller, BUT THE MOTOR?????? :hammer:
I'm a little confused, only because I was thinking the same thing with the pump you posted. I don't have one doubt about the set up. It's all relative tho, hard to get a feeling for something with out holding it and seeing it in person. The pump set up as is weights almost 6 lbs. all the internals are steel, each roller is steel with a pair of roller bearings, and the drive axle is 3/4 of an inch in diameter and rides on a ball bearing bigger then a skate board bearing. The tubing is 1/4 x7/16. The pumps is a standard for metering applications in many industries. Also I can replace any part on this set up with out spending more then 10 bucks.
OP
OP
AquamanE
Well-Known Member
WOW Ronnie- If i understand correctly i am better off just buying a $50 autotopoff.com dual float switch and passing the electrical wire to the APEX 30 feet away. Power cord will cost just a few dollars. Please LMK if im wrong.
I agree forums are one of the most powerful tools when it comes to being successful in any hobby. When I think of the advantages of a water change routine that these pumps can provide, I'm almost overwhelmed.
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