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Not hard at all. Get a sharp razor blade/edge or scalpel and slowly cut around the silicone. Try to keep away from the glass and as close as possible to the edges of the plastic back-wall. And some parts it’s easy to peel off silicone from the plastic overflow because silicone doesn’t adhere that well to plastics.Looks great. Was it easy removing the overflow
The vertical black lines are the external silicone where the black plastic cover on the outside sticks to the tank. The internal filter wall provides no structural support. Safe to remove.Hi Nick, I joined the site to join this thread so thanks for making it! I am thinking of removing the AIO wall in my biocube 32, as well. Could you please tell me what those vertical black lines on the glass are? they seem to be where the wall used to be.
Some people express concern that the filter wall provides structural support. Having done the removal- do you think that's probable at all?
I am thinking of going with just a canister filter (407) that clips on to the tank as opposed to drilling it.
Thanks so much for making this thread!
Fluval 407 canister? I did some research on canisters, it will work for saltwater tanks. Seems like the oase canisters with the pull out prefilter is easier to maintain. With saltwater aquariums the filter has to be changed every 3 to 7 days. Incredible how dirty it gets compared to freshwater.Hi Nick, I joined the site to join this thread so thanks for making it! I am thinking of removing the AIO wall in my biocube 32, as well. Could you please tell me what those vertical black lines on the glass are? they seem to be where the wall used to be.
Some people express concern that the filter wall provides structural support. Having done the removal- do you think that's probable at all?
I am thinking of going with just a canister filter (407) that clips on to the tank as opposed to drilling it.
Thanks so much for making this thread!
I haven’t tried drilling 2 holes because I didn’t think I will ever need a flow rate greater than 600gph. That’s already 20x turn over. To get a really nice hole drilled on the glass. Go slow with the drill ie light pressure and keep water pouring on the drilling surface. Also put a piece of soft wood at the opposite surface of the glass where you are drilling so that as you cut thru the glass it will not end up with a rough edge as the drill pushes thru the glass.Hi Nick,
Checking back in. Thanks for this thread. I went ahead and removed the back wall. The tank looks great now. But I think I have to go full out and do the sump like you did. Which means another tank breakdown so soon again. I just really need a skimmer, and every hang on back skimmer makes so many vibrations in the tank that I don't consider them worth it. I just imagine that the tank would be miserable for a fish with that kind of noise in the water all the time.
I am very nervous to drill glass for the first time. I am probably going to go with a bean animal setup. the only problem is that all the overflow boxes with 3 pipes require two holes drilled pretty close together. That's a serious pucker factor. Any words of advice?
Thanks again! I'll post some pictures of my tank if you want. I have a 100% locally-collected tank of various blenny species and other interesting fish. right now I have 2 crested blennies (a breeding pair), striped blennies (another breeding pair), and 4 feather blennies that haven't paired up yet. Also I have a planehead filefish and a few pipefish. I don't think I'll be able to keep the pipefish because they are going to end up in the sump all the time after this mod.