Cyano? Dino's? Finally is here, not happy. Chemiclean does not work.

[fr3n0z]

Hi guys, long story short. Upgraded tank a couple of weeks ago. washed sand and added a little part of it, then added new sand too. All the rest is the same.

No3 are at 5 and po4 is at 0.04.

I did has some problem of low nutrient in the last couple of months, very low reading, po4 never over 0.05 and no3 never over 5/10...lot'ìs of time no3 lower than 2 and po4 at 0.02 (i check po4 with hanna checker and no3 with salifert)

Couple of days after finishing upgrade i had to go aweay for a week. Once back, tank was covered in red algae. I think is cyano BUT i am now at the 24hr mark of the second treatment with RedCyano RX (chemiclean).

It does go away at night.

Searching a bit i would like to ask you aswell, if you tink is cyano or if can be dino's, in order to find the proper way to attack.

In case i would like to know what is best to keep in check since info out there are pretty much mixed up.

goes from "carbon dosing" to strip your water. ...basic line, is better to keep NO3 and Po4 high or low when battling with cyano?

I am dosing regularly bacteria and CACO3 mix to try to up the bacteria population that has been probably dirupted with the tank upgrade.

 

[monfilsi]

If you can get your hands on a cheap microscope, I suggest you look at it under microscope. That way you can target the exact organism.

Probably dinos if chemiclean isn't having any effect.

 

[ryanjohn1]

Chemi clean takes longer than 24 hours to work.

 

[Townes_Van_Camp]

Don't dump chems in your tank. Holistic approaches. Manage nutrients. Then settle in for the ride.

Be patient. The only things that happen fast in this hobby are bad things.

Kalk overdoses, ATO misfires, wallet empty, brook. I can't think of anything good that happens quickly.

 

[fr3n0z]

Chemi clean takes longer than 24 hours to work.

that's already the second round of redcyano RX treatment.

Don't dump chems in your tank. Holistic approaches. Manage nutrients. Then settle in for the ride.

Be patient. The only things that happen fast in this hobby are bad things.

Kalk overdoses, ATO misfires, wallet empty, brook. I can't think of anything good that happens quickly.

nutrients should be kep low or high?

 

[Townes_Van_Camp]

that's already the second round of redcyano RX treatment.

nutrients should be kep low or high?

Where you have them is fine.

Start reading at the top:

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...

www.reef2reef.com

ID is the most important part.

 

[Bruttall]

Probably wrong but I thought Dino's disappeared at night, bloomed under light during day, but Cyano was all the time.

 

[fr3n0z]

Where you have them is fine.

Start reading at the top:

Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...

www.reef2reef.com

ID is the most important part.

Probably wrong but I thought Dino's disappeared at night, bloomed under light during day, but Cyano was all the time.

I did the peroxide test and is bubbling. So should be cyano.

If you can get your hands on a cheap microscope, I suggest you look at it under microscope. That way you can target the exact organism.

Probably dinos if chemiclean isn't having any effect.

i've got my hand on a cheap usb microscope...that is what i could gather...

 

[thedon986]

Definitely dino shaped cells but can’t tell which variant. If they are only on sand the treatment protocol is raise nutrients, dose sodium silicate (40%) at 1ml per 50g daily (seems to work for me) and in a week or so you should see the dino patches starting to lighten up.

I have noticed that even with heavy silica dosing my sand only gets whiter instead of darker with the diatom bloom. If the dinos do not seem to be retreating after a week or two at 1ml/50g then increase dosage by .25ml and hold for another week to see if that is enough. You will find a dosage level that eventually starts to make the dinos die back. Watch your nutrients when encouraging a diatom bloom with dinos also present. Combined they can really deplete nutrients fast.

Additionally, dosing live phytoplankton can help encourage growth of copepods which can help beat back dinos. UV is ineffective for sand dinos, except Prorocentrum variant which may go into the water.

 

[moosevandyke]

Probably wrong but I thought Dino's disappeared at night, bloomed under light during day, but Cyano was all the time.

my cyano would die back at night... not totally just a bit. I fought it for almost 7 months on and off. One dose of chemo clean and haven't seen it sense that was 3 months ago.

 

[monfilsi]

Definitely dinos. So now you know chemiclean isn't going to help and will make things worse by killing off other things that compete with the dinos.

Hard to ID the exact kind of dino without being able to zoom in more with a better microscope.

Read the thread that was suggested lots of good tips (maybe too many!).

I suggest the hammer approach and do a number of things at the same time.

Here is what I did to get dinos under control:
1. MAke sure Phosphates and Nitrate are not Zero: target 0.1 (phos) and 15ppm (nitrate)
2. UV (if the dinos go in water column at night you will see a dramatic impact
3. Dose silicates (water glass) to encourage diatoms to compete with dinos. this is very slow. Sponges love the silicates and start to grow like crazy!
4. Siphon sand bed regularly and blow dinos off of rocks to get them into water column so that UV can do its job.
5. If you have dinos that go in sand band at night instead of water column, then you might want to consider removing sand bed, rinsing it and putting it back in. Few good threads on this as well.
5. Take your time, it takes 4month+ to tackle dinos. Unless your dinos are toxic (killing snails, coral), coral should be ok.

 

[Mwatts12]

Agree. Just leave it alone and let it pass. Dose something fix one problem and another pops up.

Wait a few weeks it goes away and stays away.

 

[fr3n0z]

Agree. Just leave it alone and let it pass. Dose something fix one problem and another pops up.

Wait a few weeks it goes away and stays away.

seen the probable strain i can't leave it, it kills my cuc and provably corals too. I will not dose dinoX but UV, carbon, no3, po4 and possibly silicates are going in.

 

[Bruttall]

I read a long time ago that Napoleon had a policy of not opening correspondence for 2 weeks after receiving it. It amazed his Clerk how many of those Dire Emergencies would resolve themselves if just given a little time.

There are no quick fixes in this hobby, there are Masks that hide the problems though.

Your Tank, Your Methods, I wish you luck what ever you do.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

seen the probable strain i can't leave it, it kills my cuc and provably corals too. I will not dose dinoX but UV, carbon, no3, po4 and possibly silicates are going in.

Manually remove as much as you can daily and you'll see improvement.
No need for drastic/complicated measures.

 

[Glowurm]

Don't dump chems in your tank. Holistic approaches. Manage nutrients. Then settle in for the ride.

Be patient. The only things that happen fast in this hobby are bad things.

Kalk overdoses, ATO misfires, wallet empty, brook. I can't think of anything good that happens quickly.

I think you'll find wallet emptying quickly happens very quickly in this hobby