Electrical cord splicing question

[Paleozoic_reefer]

my plan was to install my 55W UV filter in my sump which fits perfectly. The issue I have is the ballast won’t let me thread the electrical cord through the opening in my sump area of my RSR 450.

I don't want the ballast in that section of the stand where there is water from the sump. My question is could I splice the cable and use the ends of an extension cord to allow me to install the UV pump in the wet side of the stand and have the ballast and plug in the dry side of the stand to assist in installation as well as when I need to replace the bulb.

(Here is an early pics of the tank set up before plumbing and water was put in)

Any other suggestions are also appreciated!

 

[Dan_P]

my plan was to install my 55W UV filter in my sump which fits perfectly. The issue I have is the ballast won’t let me thread the electrical cord through the opening in my sump area of my RSR 450.

I don't want the ballast in that section of the stand where there is water from the sump. My question is could I splice the cable and use the ends of an extension cord to allow me to install the UV pump in the wet side of the stand and have the ballast and plug in the dry side of the stand to assist in installation as well as when I need to replace the bulb.

(Here is an early pics of the tank set up before plumbing and water was put in)

Any other suggestions are also appreciated!

Might be safer to buy replacement male and female parts rather than cutting up an extension cord and splicing wires.

 

[Paleozoic_reefer]

Might be safer to buy replacement male and female parts rather than cutting up an extension cord and splicing wires.

Can you explain by what you mean by “replacement male and female parts”?

 

[piranhaman00]

Is that a brand name stand? Looks undersized for that large rimless tank

 

[Paleozoic_reefer]

It’s a Red Sea Reefer 450 stand and tank

 

[The_Paradox]

You can replace just the end:

Leviton 15 Amp 125-Volt Double Pole 3-Wire Grounding Plug, Black R50-3W101-00E - The Home Depot

The Leviton line of residential plugs and connectors has been expanded with the addition of a grounding model available in four colors: Black, Gray, Orange and White and our best-selling 515PV and CV in Orange. Leviton Plugs and Connectors are rugged, easy to wire and feature brass plug blades...

www.homedepot.com

 

[Paleozoic_reefer]

You can replace just the end:

Leviton 15 Amp 125-Volt Double Pole 3-Wire Grounding Plug, Black R50-3W101-00E - The Home Depot

The Leviton line of residential plugs and connectors has been expanded with the addition of a grounding model available in four colors: Black, Gray, Orange and White and our best-selling 515PV and CV in Orange. Leviton Plugs and Connectors are rugged, easy to wire and feature brass plug blades...

www.homedepot.com

That wouldn’t work since I still won’t be able to fit the ballast or UV through the available opening. I need to find a way to cut and connect the cables for install and bulb replacement. Would something like this work?

 

[The_Paradox]

Use this style then:

Amazon

 

[Dan_P]

Can you explain by what you mean by “replacement male and female parts”

For example. There are also GFI plugs. Lots of options.

 

[JonsNano]

Use this style then:

Amazon

I was going to say make sure any connections are ip65 or above in case of any spills or drips/salt creep

 

[Red_Beard]

I am partial to these, from my industrial days. Aviation connector pair
But any of the suggestions will work, even splicing the pigtail. Usually though we try and avoid splices if at all possible because they are more at risk from environmental degradation, more likely to be uninsulated should someone grab it, and they look like a hack job. If you connectorize it you won’t have to take everything apart if you need to pull it out though. Just some suggestions .

 

[The_Paradox]

I am partial to these, from my industrial days. Aviation connector pair
But any of the suggestions will work, even splicing the pigtail. Usually though we try and avoid splices if at all possible because they are more at risk from environmental degradation, more likely to be uninsulated should someone grab it, and they look like a hack job. If you connectorize it you won’t have to take everything apart if you need to pull it out though. Just some suggestions .

Love barrel connectors but I would not run 120AC through those.

 

[Paleozoic_reefer]

Use this style then:

Amazon

Awesome! This is exactly what I was looking for!

 

[Red_Beard]

Love barrel connectors but I would not run 120AC through those.

Rated 250v 4A. 55w uv should be fine @ only .51A, which is well within spec. But you are right, the balast would kick it up to 600v which is not. So it would only work on the one side of the circuit.

 

[Doctorgori]

I have a 450 and that looks like a Jaebo UV …
could you temporarily disconnect the bulkhead and fit it through?

 

[The_Paradox]

Rated 250v 4A. 55w uv should be fine @ only .51A, which is well within spec. But you are right, the balast would kick it up to 600v which is not. So it would only work on the one side of the circuit.

I do all kinds of stuff I should not but publicly my stance is don’t use 115AC connectors on 120AC.

 

[Paleozoic_reefer]

I have a 450 and that looks like a Jaebo UV …
could you temporarily disconnect the bulkhead and fit it through?

I would rather not mess with the bulk heads but that could definitely be an option of last resort!

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

Forgive me as I can’t see the pics, but will the uv bulb cap fit through the opening if you remove the bulb?

 

[Paleozoic_reefer]

Forgive me as I can’t see the pics, but will the uv bulb cap fit through the opening if you remove the bulb?

unfortunately not unless I remove one of the bulk heads. The RSR G1s don't have a port to run cables between the stand’s compartments like the G2s…