210G Post Nuke Reboot 2.0

[Doctorgori]

3rd reboot for this tank in 3 years: Ich, Alk swing, H2O2 overdose. This tank was originally a FOWLR for a old “bonded pair” of marine bettas (“bonded“ used loosely). Anyway after luckily going over 20yrs without ever seeing disease, a ich outbreak wiped out hundreds in fish in days; some fish being many years with me. So I moved in my reef from a 150g tall to this now empty 210G Aqueon w/twin internal overflows. (I hate those internal overflows!!)

HERE is the train wreck. Human error this time, I let 35% H2O2 run for 6 hrs. Not total meltdown; but still terrible in terms of time and monetary loss: shrimp, snails and other inverts: its going to be a few hundred to replace just the CUC. them. The coralline was off and running, purple specks showing on glass daily, the sps were encrusting and I had ALK dialed in a 9.0 DkH.




.

 

[Doctorgori]

Longevity in the hobby only counts for money spent and mistakes made: I have 30+ yrs reef tank experience, 40+ SW but I’m a average reefer who’s life and $$ gets in the way of a perfect tank.
I know little-nothing of SPS Corals, the growth habits or common names even though I have kept Acros since the SPS/stick boom 10yrs + ago, montis & porites much longer.
I really could use constructive criticism and advice (With emphasis)

I have removed ALL corals And rock from the tank. I am going to take BRS and R2R consensus advice and simplify matters by making this a stick dominant tank As opposed to a mixed reef. The new aquascape will be mainly functional with flow, detritus removal and maintenece taking priority over the aesthetically appealing and surreal off-balanced ”minimalist” rock “ArtScapes”. Basically a “wall-o-rock” with minimal base footprint and lots of shelf space for coral placement.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Man so sorry for the crash!

As a long term reefer myself, I've strived to always K.I.S.S., but a crash could happen to anyone of us at anytime. It's the chance we take with our tanks.

When I started out, I didn't quarantine anything. I learned a hard lesson and lost $300+ in fish to ich. That was decades ago and ever since I've been quarantining.

I still run a very minimalistic system based on the Berlin method. I don't dose anything except Kalkwasser and do 10-20% weekly water changes.

I may not have the most jammed packed stick tank, but it grows and is healthy.

I hope things turn around for you quickly and here's to many years ahead of success! Hang in there!

 

[Gablami]

Longevity in the hobby only counts for money spent and mistakes made: I have 30+ yrs reef tank experience, 40+ SW but I’m a average reefer who’s life and $$ gets in the way of a perfect tank.
I know little-nothing of SPS Corals, the growth habits or common names even though I have kept Acros since the SPS/stick boom 10yrs + ago, montis & porites much longer.
I really could use constructive criticism and advice (With emphasis)

I have removed ALL corals And rock from the tank. I am going to take BRS and R2R consensus advice and simplify matters by making this a stick dominant tank As opposed to a mixed reef. The new aquascape will be mainly functional with flow, detritus removal and maintenece taking priority over the aesthetically appealing and surreal off-balanced ”minimalist” rock “ArtScapes”. Basically a “wall-o-rock” with minimal base footprint and lots of shelf space for coral placement.

Sorry to hear about your crash. The only thing I would add to your plan is that a minimalistic artistic reef is often MORE inviting to unimpeded water flow and reduced build up of detritus. Usually the aqua scape rock base that contacts the floor is much less, and it’s easier to siphon out or keep detritus suspended with flow.

The “wall of rock” approach is beneficial as it gets a lot of nitrifying bacteria into your DT. But if your stated goals are flow, detritus removal and maintenance, the more “minimal” and “artistic” aquascapes might be more in line with that. Just a thought! I know that once your scape is in, it’s hard to change.

 

[Doctorgori]

With all the coralline is bleached or dead. I have no clue what/which microfauna survived; The tank was originally devoid of pest, including bristle worms. Currently I see no evidence of living pods; the only visible liverock fauna is just a few bristle Stars. As others have suggested, the tank rock appears to be still partially cycled; as Nitrate readings have gone through the roof (50+ from < 5ppm)... not exactly a bad sign...All things considered. I’m thinking a 6-9 mo setback in maturity, and 2yr setback in coral/clam growth,,,

....seeking any advice on a reboot plan; So far:

1. 100% H2O change: 200+ Gal IO “Reef Crystals”. <done>
2. Re-scape rock to include pre-cut flat base rock for minimal floor footprint & increased rock stability <done>
3. Add Microbacter Start XLM <done>
4. Start dosing Microbacter Clean <in progress>
5. add CUC during ugly phase <started>
6. Upgrade lighting: current: 4ea Kessil 350W, 1ea 72” Orbit, 1ea 48” Orbit. Add 4x 54W T5 HO <not started
7. Start adding corals at 1st sign of coralline algae <not started> Need coral list

No clue on any timeline or how the tank has or will fare.

Here is my current fish list (in Sorta pecking order)
Foxface Lo
Atlantic Blue Tang
Scopas Tang
Twin/Two spot Bristletooth Tang
4ea Indian Ocean Lyretail Anthias
5ea Bangai Cardinals
3 Firefish gobies
2 Orange spotted gobies
2 red scooter blennies
1 clown (percula?)

The tank has just entered the “brown phase” and all my inverts and CUC all perished during the peroxide event. Here is my CUC restock list:
10 Turbo & 5 Trochus, 6 peppermint shrimp (will order more as tank matures) 20 Ceriths, 10 Nerites, 20 Nassarius, 2 Emerald crabs, pod assortment

Equipment List:
Aqueon 210 G, 40B sump
2x Lifeguard 3000 pumps
Reef Octo 150
500W Titanium Heater
2x Orbit Wave pumps
3x Neptune WAV pumps
4x BRS 1.1 ml dosers
2x Jaebo 4channel dosers
Neptune Apex El w/832 Energy bar
Neptune ATK
Neptune AF

Front & Back of Equip Cabinet

 

[Doctorgori]

Sorry to hear about your crash. The only thing I would add to your plan is that a minimalistic artistic reef is often MORE inviting to unimpeded water flow and reduced build up of detritus. Usually the aqua scape rock base that contacts the floor is much less, and it’s easier to siphon out or keep detritus suspended with flow.

The “wall of rock” approach is beneficial as it gets a lot of nitrifying bacteria into your DT. But if your stated goals are flow, detritus removal and maintenance, the more “minimal” and “artistic” aquascapes might be more in line with that. Just a thought! I know that once your scape is in, it’s hard to change.

Good point, and not arguing but talking it through myself...

I have actually always envied some of the almost “Boris” looking aquascapes, some looking even “interstellar”. I actually do artwork and have a shameless desire to copy a good many tanks I’ve seen here. Hmmmm ...TBH, one dynamic could be almost a“hoarders” attachment to even old rock pieces: When it doesn’t look right, a more has to be better mindset.
Then again Every last chunk of that old rock is pretty dead .... If I were gonna chuck any of it, nows the time. Thinking...

Edited to add: Well if I’m gonna re-arrange; maybe now is the best time: I Now see a Bangai Cardinal sulking in a corner. The tank teardown must have upset the group balance of 5. He’s outcast, not a good future either.

 

[LRT]

Looking forward to see a positive rebound here. It was devastating to watch your crash unfold. I couldnt imagine it.
Well heres to the new build!

Cheers

 

[Doctorgori]

OK I ordered some reef cement to go at least “semi-minimalist” @Gablami You definitely got me looking at a few tanks ....
Here is the probem I have using old rock: there Are usually 2 sides: over/coralline side and under: gray/yellow spongy side... figuring out how to link them to form arches caves or overhangs wlll be challenging

...Also burned out my Kessil H80 sump lights (they turned on while face down; overheated)
Got these cheapo but bright and allegedly waterproof (Amazon under about 6 brands!) if they last a year or so without catching fire or burning out; cool

 

[Gablami]

I recently tried using Nyos reef cement. And I really liked it (once you get a hang of how fast it dries). I also have emarco 400 which is also quite good. I like these reef cements more than the epoxy puddy I used to use.

I wouldn't worry about which side rock you use (the coralline side or spongy side). Just make the scape work. In no time, new coralline will grow on the lighted side.

Good luck. I'm having fun with my rocks these days too.

 

[Doctorgori]

I recently tried using Nyos reef cement. And I really liked it (once you get a hang of how fast it dries). I also have emarco 400 which is also quite good. I like these reef cements more than the epoxy puddy I used to use.

I wouldn't worry about which side rock you use (the coralline side or spongy side). Just make the scape work. In no time, new coralline will grow on the lighted side.

Good luck. I'm having fun with my rocks these days too.

So I tried the Nyos and it dries FAST !!! So I got the E Marco stuff and its more workable.... Thing is there are situations where both products shine:
I used the E-Marco when I wanted a VERY strong bond like a ledge or overhang and I could let the rock set for a few hours...
I used the Nyos when the rock had living critters and I just wanted to attach and submerge quickly ...Nyos works light years better than epoxy, BTW

Here is the tentative aquascape ; I tried incorporating some “minimalist” design elements

 

[Doctorgori]

The 6 feet of tank space with dual internal overflows makes for flow challenges... With the new dry rock products being cut on one side, I winder if anyone has tried mounting the rock vertically u. The back glass?
Any thoughts?

 

[Gablami]

So I tried the Nyos and it dries FAST !!! So I got the E Marco stuff and its more workable.... Thing is there are situations where both products shine:
I used the E-Marco when I wanted a VERY strong bond like a ledge or overhang and I could let the rock set for a few hours...
I used the Nyos when the rock had living critters and I just wanted to attach and submerge quickly ...Nyos works light years better than epoxy, BTW

Here is the tentative aquascape ; I tried incorporating some “minimalist” design elements

nice! Yes the speed that nyos works is good for wet live rock that you want to get back into the water. Looking good. Yes people have mounted against walls on all sides. It’s a very different look.

 

[Doctorgori]

I’ve set about to re-cabinet this 210 starting with the lighting: I set about making a “floating canopy” attached to the walls. No more goosenecks mounts, wires, post, whatever. I want to create a nice clean look.

Rather than empty the entire tank, I elected to just leave the tank filled and “skin” a new coat of 3/4” maple plywood around it.
Below is the 70’s style stand with the trim & door removed

 

[Doctorgori]

The project I’m about to show was a fail; basically I used dimensional
PVC which ended up being too heavy;

 

[Doctorgori]

The original plan was to use a saltwater resistant base structure of PVC then skin it with maple. I’m about to tear it all down and start over using lighter/stronger plywood. For Salt resistance I’m using Kilz with a white oil based top coat.

 

[mattgsa]

I love the rebuild so far, keep up the great work.

 

[Doctorgori]

Here is how I attached the hood “floating” off the wall. 3” lag bolts were driven into studs. The wall was weight bearing (stairs), so I was able to locate studs @ 16” OC allowing for a great deal of weight suspended 24” out from the wall !!!

 

[Doctorgori]

I spent a small fortune on maple plywood and solids. I don’t get the cost tho; Here in N.E. Ohio maple trees are felled and turned into mulch like its the Amazon. Anyway, I went through a lot of trouble finding 8x4 boards with a single continuous grain. I’ll be going for a pseudo “modern” retro look with the grain going horizontal.

 

[Doctorgori]

My table saw is junk so all my cuts will have to be freehand. Issue will be joining the solids to plywood edge; freehand cuts require more putty/sanding. I cop’d a Kreg ripcut jig and the results were horrific: all the trouble I went through for a continuous frontal grain was wasted. My saw jumped ruining the board

 

[Doctorgori]

here is the final cuts for the plywood wrap. Notice the 2nd & 3rd pieces from the left is not matching the grain. I basically screwed up my door cut and had to use another board...arghhhh