Not the CA glue, but the original one, but the clear version, probably not reef safe? (The last two are from the leak seal putty)
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So cured should be ok?Original Gorilla Glue is single component polyurethane. When dried it will be inert and presumably reef safe. The raw glue however is not likely reef safe (or human for that matter).
Wet, it will react with water and foam, weakening its bond, however it does need some moisture from the atmosphere to actually react (dry).
It is very similar (same basic components) to the expanding spray foams or any other single component urethane based adhesives, which are also typically inert when dry (unless anti fungal or other additives are part of the formula).
Is there sufficient uv in the average reef light, or more specifically my kessil 360s, to cause problems?The "degradability" part - it is a urethane, it will break down in UV and elements, but as a long chain polymer (read plastic), some of its molecules will be around for a long time.
They did come up in a search. About the same price as brs, kicking myself that I didn't add it to the order coming this week.You can get big bottles of ca glue from gluemasters. I think I spent $60-$70 on 3 big bottles of their thin for building my rock structures. I still have 2-1/2 bottles lol.
I know pond foam is fairly popular for terrarium structures but sealed with silicone.I used pond foam to build the lava rock structure in my 125g tanganyika tank. I am just using the cheap aqueon leds that came with the tank. I keep finding the pond foam floating around the tank and some rocks are loose. Its been 3 years but still.
I figured its made to build water falls in pond so.....I know pond foam is fairly popular for terrarium structures but sealed with silicone.
I just used normal expanding foam for my terrarium, but did seal it.I figured its made to build water falls in pond so.....