I don't trust myself to culture my own pods haha
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I’ll be honest, the algae is so thick on the glass I can’t see much, and I can’t really recognize the different kinds of the smaller ones but I do know what the Tig pods look like and they are everywhere, but they are also the first ones to get eaten when I add them to my display. Almost immediately actually. My clowns tear them uplovely... does the tigriopus and tisbes there compete? I would like to culture tigriopus due to their size but I've already got tisbes in and I don't have any transparent vases left. Galaxy sounds like the same deal as phyto - feast, except with copepods.
nice. Waiting for the biofilm to grow... fed some mysis last night to keep up nutrients.I’ll be honest, the algae is so thick on the glass I can’t see much, and I can’t really recognize the different kinds of the smaller ones but I do know what the Tig pods look like and they are everywhere, but they are also the first ones to get eaten when I add them to my display. Almost immediately actually. My clowns tear them up
Hey thanks for the shout out. We really appreciate it.I just recently started tto grow phyto, and plan on starting pods also. @Reef By Steele has helped me out alot. He's got his own setup growing all kinds of phyto and pods.
My guess would be that the nauplii are to weak to survive the currents as they hatch in stagnant vessels. Do you feed the nauplii right after hatch or are you letting them grow first?I run live brine because of my Sally project. I don't know if that counts but every tank gets live brine shrimp daily. No other live foods.
Brine shrimp culture for dummies like me:
scoop out a cup of tank water, put in shrimp eggs, there you go you just grew live food for your tank.
Maybe people who actually understand this stuff will see this, why doesn't tossing shrimp eggs into my sump work?
I’ve been looking into the mysis, but more setup needed as the adults will eat the nauplii before the reach maturity. I’m trying some different tank set ups to see if I can culture them long term.I have a phyto reactor and occasionally will hatch brine shrimp. I think it would be awesome to have a mysis tank for fresh food as well.
They eat biofilm or algae on the container. They only get fed if I hatch too many and that doesn't happen much anymore.My guess would be that the nauplii are to weak to survive the currents as they hatch in stagnant vessels. Do you feed the nauplii right after hatch or are you letting them grow first?
Pods would be a better choice. Adult brine shrimp lack a lot of nutrient value. Really have to “gut load” them for them to be a good food source. Freshly hatched they are super good for raising fry like my baby clowns (that’s how all this got started lol). First rotifer, then baby brine, then started culturing phyto for the rotifers then pods now, wow what a trip.I’m going to try and grow “out” Brine Shrimp! Babies are to small, my fish can’t see
Regular dosing should establish colonies in your refugium and DT, depending on the tank. Having lots of “Pod Hunters” Mandarins, Anthias, some Wrasses etc can keep the populations pretty low. We love those fish and that is a main reason I started doing my own. Also dosing with live phytoplankton really helps them to reproduce.i seed my tank every few months with copepods from @AlgaeBarn. i would like to believe i am "growing" or culturing them in my sump during the months i don't dose/seed.
We’ll I already have Your phyto!! BTW, my release went great, gave them no protein skimmer or filters for 6 hours!Pods would be a better choice. Adult brine shrimp lack a lot of nutrient value. Really have to “gut load” them for them to be a good food source. Freshly hatched they are super good for raising fry like my baby clowns (that’s how all this got started lol). First rotifer, then baby brine, then started culturing phyto for the rotifers then pods now, wow what a trip.
To “gut load” them you need to put them in nice rich phytoplankton for a while before feeding. You can also add the brine and some Selcon to a measuring cup for an hour and then feed. They will gain nutritional value from the Selcon.
Best to have them after the skimmer if possible. Same area might be ok if flow can pull them away instead of into skimmer. They will establish in your main DT in the rocks if seeded and fed properly.Oh and does anyone know if having the skimmer right next to copepods in the sump will just completely remove the population? My sump isn't big enough for a standard fuge and the only compartments wide enough to accomodate LR and chaeto is either the return compartment or the skimmer compartment.
Yes and thank you. Just didn’t know if you knew to let the brine soak up some phyto.Well I already have Your phyto!! BTW, my release went great, gave them no protein skimmer or filters for 6 hours!
Yes the nauplii are very nutrient rich. I think for 24-48 hours maybe, if I remember what I learned when I started them for raising clownfish.They eat biofilm or algae on the container. They only get fed if I hatch too many and that doesn't happen much anymore.
Yes phyto feast really needs to be fed in a manner that they consume it within a couple of hours as it is dead and can cause ammonia spikes. I used it for my rotifers and it is a great product. They include an ammonia reducer in it.I used tank water instead of fresh saltwater for the tisbe... guess we'll see how that turns out. They're pretty big so I don't think anything is predating on them. Dosed a crap ton of phyto on day 1 and I'm planning to just go with a few drops daily since Phyto - feast is some concentrated stuff.
Ahead unfortunately, the skimmers are the last stage before bioballs and nothing can go into the bioballs.They're in a basket though, not sure how much that helps.Best to have them after the skimmer if possible. Same area might be ok if flow can pull them away instead of into skimmer. They will establish in your main DT in the rocks if seeded and fed properly.
I can help you if you ever want to try.I don't trust myself to culture my own pods haha
actually it's live phyto feast. Got it to start a culture.Yes phyto feast really needs to be fed in a manner that they consume it within a couple of hours as it is dead and can cause ammonia spikes. I used it for my rotifers and it is a great product. They include an ammonia reducer in it.
That is one reason I switched to live phyto as much less likely to overdose.
Ok, but you may experience difficulties with that. Culturing multiple strains of phyto generally leads to one out competing all the rest. Most likely you will end up with Nanno or tetra.actually it's live phyto feast. Got it to start a culture.
That's fine, I wasn't working for a multistrain culture anyways. There isn't any other live phyto product available in my area other than what comes with the pods.Ok, but you may experience difficulties with that. Culturing multiple strains of phyto generally leads to one out competing all the rest. Most likely you will end up with Nanno or tetra.
That’s what I was going to do when I started, but found this info when I started asking around.