Fitz_bizZle
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And I would use 2 no3 test high and low range to make sure your not over dosing.
Help Me Color My Sticks!!!
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hotnickz07
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Na I never dose anything in my display, except food or amino. All else goes in the OF or the Sump
KritikaL
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yeah even with a bit of algae in the tank i would say to up the phos a little and see what affect that has. does the gha grow? or just stay at the same length? you say you have cheato, how often do you harvest the cheato?
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hotnickz07
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So salifert and RS?
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hotnickz07
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Na it really stays about the same size doesn't really get to much out of hand . Yea I do run cheato, I harvest it about once a month. Been thinking of removing it, since I run Matrix, but I like the cheato because of the pods
Fitz_bizZle
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I use red sea and api for no3
Fitz_bizZle
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Take into consideration that my tanks nutrient uptake is probably much different than yours. Just take it slow and test at consistent times to determine how much your tank is consuming.
You don't need a chiller. I'm in AZ and run 2-250w Metal Halides all summer long and keep my tank cool by running a fan.
If my water gets over 79 degrees my sticks start fading out. If I keep it 76-77 they look great.
Try doing weekly water changes with a quality salt mix for a few month. ...and see if it won't help to replenish trace elements if they are in fact low from nsw....if colors and growth get better. ...problem solved. ...low no3 and po4 don't look to be a problem with hair algae growing. ..something is feeding it! Especially if macro is growing. ..
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hotnickz07
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the problem is that my tank is enclosed so were the lights are get rather warm. My fans are in sump area sucking air in from the outside. However, im going to have to install some in the top as and exhaust to lower it then. Been thinking about it for a while now, but just going to have to do it. This should lower my tamp significantly. But I have always ran my tanks in the 80s with great success. But guess anything to get better results this time.
I have tried that. Actually , I started the tank with RS pro then after having extremely high alk I switched to the blue bucket. Never really had success with neither at all. The little success I have had was immediately after switching to NSW about 8 months ago.
Well the Only channel that I run at 35 is my Whites, everything else is at 40 red green , and blues and violest at 50. Before lowering the blues, I used to run them at 70 and whites at 40. The colors were the same then, and I had 0 p.e. Even with pretty high nutrients, Seems everytime I crank whites pass 35, corals get ticked of
Elton20
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You should look at the spectral graph behind the vertical color controls. It shows the chlorophyll A production based on the spectrum. 430nm is the peak of the blue I believe and 620nm is peaked on the Reds. Everything else should be turned down. This is why most lights are dominantly blue. So blues should be at least 60-70% everything else down, reds do produce chlorophyll A but they should not be turned up very high, 20-30% is ideal. You'd be surprised by how high some people turn their lights up. I run my Apollo reef LED's at 100%
twilliard
Tank pests..
That is based on Orpheks led chips.
Your chips may vary
Elton20
Community Member
The graph is a general graph of absorption levels for each type of chlorophyll, the stuff that makes zooxanthellae produce energy for the corals. It's the graph that Orphek developed, not exactly pertaining to Orphek lights. So it says that at about 430nm corals will absorb chlorophyll A the most and therefore grow faster.
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hotnickz07
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Good news things are looking up! Starting to get better p.e. Including faded and browned out acros, they are getting some p.e and they had none before. No3 is at 5 and im dosing kno3 eod to keep it there
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hotnickz07
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OK from good to bad. Seems im getting stn/rtn on some of my acros. I been keeping params stable at 8dkh, 420 cal, 1400 mag, No3 at 10ppm, Phos is unknow at this time since I ran out of hanna test kits but shoud have them by tomorrow. I even lowered my temp to 78F, by placing a fan in the canopy and using it at a exhaust fan. Im kicking my self because I have no clue why this is happening. I removed gfo today, just in case, was thinking of adding gac just in case I got any chemicals or anything that may harm tank by mistake, while I cas cutting the wholes for the fan. However I don't know if this is a good idea since the whole stn/rtn might get worst. Keep in mind when I ran gac/gfo I do it passively in a mesh bag but it does the job for me. Any ideas or suggestions??
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hotnickz07
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More bad news. Tank keeps rtn/ stn. Its really getting to me , i have no clue what to do anymore. Been keeping my params spot on, lowered temp, raised nutrients and nothing. This is my first crash ever in almost 15 yrs doing this. Worst part about it is, that all my tanks have been cruise control tanks, this is the first tank that i have experimented with stuff like prodibio or vodka/vinegar. 
its so frustrating specially now that xmas is upon us and i wanted to get some new sticks. I have lost over 10 frags in last few weeks.. this sucks
Some pics
its so frustrating specially now that xmas is upon us and i wanted to get some new sticks. I have lost over 10 frags in last few weeks.. this sucksSome pics
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