How Good (Or Bad) Is My City Water? (City Water Quality Report)

[JSkeleton]

So in a continued effort to understand what's in my City Water and what poses a potential risk and would need to be filtered and treated for a tank (Fish Only With Inverts), I found my local plant water quality report, and am curious from others who have more knowledge than me, how good (or bad) my City water quality is based on this quality report and what are some red flags possibly to be aware of?

Link to report: https://documents.ottawa.ca/sites/documents/files/WQ_table_AODO_Lemieux_2021_2.pdf

 

[rtparty]

Looks like they use chloramine which is one of the bigger things to worry about. You need 2 carbon blocks to deal with that and then need to watch them closely.

I understand it isn't necessary or financially viable for everyone, but I have found the BRS 7 stage system to be totally worth it. 2 carbon blocks and then the DI resins are separated so you replace what is actually being depleted instead of throwing out half the good resin left becase the other half was depleted.

 

[LeftyReefer]

I agree, I'd run two carbon blocks. You can add a second carbon block to any RODI setup for about $35. It's not a big deal to add.

I run two carbon blocks on my system too.

 

[JSkeleton]

Looks like they use chloramine which is one of the bigger things to worry about. You need 2 carbon blocks to deal with that and then need to watch them closely.

I understand it isn't necessary or financially viable for everyone, but I have found the BRS 7 stage system to be totally worth it. 2 carbon blocks and then the DI resins are separated so you replace what is actually being depleted instead of throwing out half the good resin left becase the other half was depleted.

Besides Chloramine, any other red flags?

As for Chloramines, why 2 carbon and not one of those Chloramine Carbon Plus filters?

 

[JSkeleton]

I agree, I'd run two carbon blocks. You can add a second carbon block to any RODI setup for about $35. It's not a big deal to add.

I run two carbon blocks on my system too.

Why not just one of those Chloramine carbon filters? And adds up with more $$ over time haha

 

[rtparty]

Besides Chloramine, any other red flags?

As for Chloramines, why 2 carbon and not one of those Chloramine Carbon Plus filters?

They are marketing hype. Carbon blocks remove chloramines but you need 2 of them

 

[JSkeleton]

They are marketing hype. Carbon blocks remove chloramines but you need 2 of them

But 2 Carbon Blocks would cost more, no? As opposed to 1 Carbon Plus Block?

 

[HBtank]

But 2 Carbon Blocks would cost more, no? As opposed to 1 Carbon Plus Block?

Get one chloramine rated carbon block and one standard carbon block, that's what I typically do. I personally think any system needs two carbon blocks and two DI, minimum.

At the end of the day they just have more capacity, they are both carbon; it's up to you to decide if the $/gallon is worth it.

 

[JSkeleton]

Get one chloramine rated carbon block and one standard carbon block, that's what I typically do. I personally think any system needs two carbon blocks and two DI, minimum.

At the end of the day they just have more capacity, they are both carbon; it's up to you to decide if the $/gallon is worth it.

Sheesh. Why so many? With a 3 stage normal RO Buddie (smaller unit. 1 regular Carbon, 1 Sediment, 1 membrane) I was getting only 4TDS out of the RO. I can't imagine needing TWO DIs. As for Carbon, if you have one chloramine rated one, why would you need a 2nd Carbon? Is that not unnecessary overkill at that point?

 

[HBtank]

Sheesh. Why so many? With a 3 stage normal RO Buddie (smaller unit. 1 regular Carbon, 1 Sediment, 1 membrane) I was getting only 4TDS out of the RO. I can't imagine needing TWO DIs. As for Carbon, if you have one chloramine rated one, why would you need a 2nd Carbon? Is that not unnecessary overkill at that point?

Well, the purpose is to prevent breakthrough and to also save money. Particularly with DI as color changing resin isn’t that accurate and 0 TDS on most meters is also not that accurate; there can still be back diffusing from resin at 0 TDS readings.

If you measure TDS between units and swap a new one in when above 0, rotating the last unit to the fist, you prevent breakthrough and always use 100% of your resin. You can also use separate cation and anion resins and save even further by replacing only the ones that is expended the most, but that usually requires a third mixed bed DI. You will always use the same amount of materials, filtering and exhaustion is what it is, this only requires buying some extra housings up front.

Carbon is less critical (and you typically don't test between blocks) as I usually swap both at the same time but my area has heavy chloramines and I feel that extra protection is worth it.

 

[JSkeleton]

Well, the purpose is to prevent breakthrough and save money. Particularly with DI as color changing isn’t that accurate and 0 TDS on most meters is not that accurate, and can still be back diffusing even at 0 readings.

You measure TDS between units and swap a new one in, and rotate the last unit to the fist when over 0 and the color is changed. You can also use separate cation and anion resins and save even further by replacing only the ones that is expended the most, but that usually requires a third mixed bed DI.

Lots of reasons, but it fundamentally SAVES money when it comes to DI.

Carbon is less critical as I usually swap both at the same time but my area has heavy chloramines and I feel that extra protection is worth it.

But if you're reading 0, even a slight breakthrough can't be that bad for your tank can it? Especially when some people let their TDS go up to 10 before swapping things out?

And I'm trying to grasp how buying MORE filters saves money, but I'm not understanding that part lol

My area has less than 2.0ppm Chloramines, which I assume is on the lighter side?

 

[LeftyReefer]

Most carbon blocks will also filter out chloramines, they just won't have the same filtering capacity as the dedicated chloramine blocks.

For instance, a regular carbon block may have a rated filtering capacity of 2000 gallons @ .5 ppm chloramines. while a dedicated chloramines filter might have a rated capacity of 4000 gallons @ .5 ppm chloramines. both filter chloramines, one will just last longer.

I'm on city water, but they only add chlorine here, not chloramines, yet. but seems more and more places are going to chloramines and I don't think they give you much advance notice before making the switch.... so I use double carbon blocks, one of which is a better quality block, rated for .5 micron and filters chloramines just in case.

I use a 1 micron depth sediment filter
a cheaper 5 micron carbon block
followed by a .5 micron carbon block that also filters chloramines
RO
DI

I use the MatrikX CTO Plus carbon blocks, which also filter chloramines.
I think I paid like $7 each for them the last time I stocked up. MatrikX also has a Chloraguard filter that filters twice as much chloramines, but until my municipality starts adding chloramines to my water, those would be overkill.

prices have been going up on all the filters lately, but you can still find them for around $7 each. (CTO Plus)

 

[Dbichler]

With chloramine there really is no option other than multiple carbon blocks unless you want to risk everything over $35 which would be crazy.

 

[JSkeleton]

With chloramine there really is no option other than multiple carbon blocks unless you want to risk everything over $35 which would be crazy.

I thought the other option was a single carbon block that’s rated to filter out Chloramines?

 

[JSkeleton]

Most carbon blocks will also filter out chloramines, they just won't have the same filtering capacity as the dedicated chloramine blocks.

For instance, a regular carbon block may have a rated filtering capacity of 2000 gallons @ .5 ppm chloramines. while a dedicated chloramines filter might have a rated capacity of 4000 gallons @ .5 ppm chloramines. both filter chloramines, one will just last longer.

I'm on city water, but they only add chlorine here, not chloramines, yet. but seems more and more places are going to chloramines and I don't think they give you much advance notice before making the switch.... so I use double carbon blocks, one of which is a better quality block, rated for .5 micron and filters chloramines just in case.

I use a 1 micron depth sediment filter
a cheaper 5 micron carbon block
followed by a .5 micron carbon block that also filters chloramines
RO
DI

I use the MatrikX CTO Plus carbon blocks, which also filter chloramines.
I think I paid like $7 each for them the last time I stocked up. MatrikX also has a Chloraguard filter that filters twice as much chloramines, but until my municipality starts adding chloramines to my water, those would be overkill.

prices have been going up on all the filters lately, but you can still find them for around $7 each. (CTO Plus)

Wait, why do you use 2 if one is rated to filter our Chloramines? That’s still what I’m not getting from this thread

Also, the microns is another thing idk what’s best? Like for sediment for example idk whether to get 0.5, 1, or 5 and same with carbon

 

[Dbichler]

What happens when it’s expired and some slip through so you waste the water you just made? Guess it can happen with 2 but I haven’t had any issues and only replace yearly for carbon

 

[JSkeleton]

I use the MatrikX CTO Plus carbon blocks, which also filter chloramines.

What’s the difference between their CTO Plus and the ChloraGuard which is like double to triple the price? Just looked them up now.

 

[Dbichler]

Not to mention you’re way over thinking this second post about rodi if this is too expensive for you to provide perfect water this is the wrong hobby for you. Not trying to be mean but water is their home and why would you not want it to be perfect. Kind of like a non smoker buying a smokers house just bad decision making.

 

[JSkeleton]

What happens when it’s expired and some slip through so you waste the water you just made? Guess it can happen with 2 but I haven’t had any issues and only replace yearly for carbon

I mean, if enough slips through to do anything I’d see it register as TDS at that point, no? And could I not use some Prime if I think some slipped through?

 

[Dbichler]

Nope chloramine doesn’t show up chlorine test will. Google everything you need to know about rodi and watch YouTube videos. There’s seriously like 10 of them that are 10-30 minutes long if you’re still confused ask about those questions.