Because this topic continues to come up, I wanted to create a sticky thread so that it is more easily referenced. Please understand that I am NOT presenting this as an optimum method for controlling marine ich, just putting it out there for people who want to try it. Also, do not pick and choose which items you want to follow - you need to go with all guns blazing and use them all.
Ich Management for Cryptocaryon irritans
Warning: Starting Ich Management during an active infection only works if the number of trophonts on the fish is below a certain number. Above that number and the trophonts themselves become stressors and the parasite gains a foothold, despite your attempts to manage it. So what is that number? It depends on too many variables - but I start to expect Ich Management to fail if the number of spots on any one fish is above 30 or so.
Because many aquarists mix fish and invertebrates, they are ill-prepared to then treat for marine ich, as the two best treatments, amine-based copper or hyposalinity, cannot be used with invertebrates. A popular technique has then arisen, “ich management”. It is popular not because it works well, but because it is an easier alternative. Be forewarned, it often fails if applied during moderate infections. The reason that it exists as a technique at all is because people find themselves in situations like this and are desperate to try anything.
The basic idea is to reduce the infective propagules (tomites) of the ich parasite to the point where the fish's acquired immunity can fight the infection off. This is done through a series of techniques for stress reduction and tomite limiting. Unfortunately, the ich tomites themselves cause stress to the fish, (propagule pressure) so if the fish have more than 30 or so trophonts on them, the method often fails.
First, you must be 100% certain of your diagnosis and that the fish do not have concurrent infections of ich plus something else. This process ONLY works against mild cases of ich.
1) Install a powerful UV sterilizer on the aquarium. A minimum kill factor of greater than 200,000 uWs/cm2 is needed.
2) Ensure that the fish's diet and water quality are the best you can make them.
3) Do not add non-quarantined fish to any system where you are managing ich.
4) Keep the water temperature close to 78 degrees F. Raising the water temperature only makes the parasite reproduce faster
5) Siphon off the tank floor nightly to remove as many tomonts as possible.
6) Employ strong mechanical filtration to trap as many tomites as possible.
7) Hydrogen peroxide dosed at 10 mg/l has been shown to reduce the number of theronts in the water (see note below).
8) Try a proprietary "reef safe" marine ich medication. These rarely cure ich infections on their own, but some may have benefit when combined with other management methods. Avoid the herbal remedies, focus on those that contain peroxide salts (but then do not use point 7 above).
Note - Hydrogen peroxide: This is a popular adjunct method for "ich management". It is much more difficult to use than some people will have you think. H2O2 is an oxidant, and the amount of left reactive in your aquarium's water is dependent on the level of organics available to be oxidized. These amounts are different for each tank and they change with the continued additions of peroxide. Therefore, these simply is no "one dose" that works in all instances. Using a hydrogen peroxide test strip is highly recommended! Here are some resources if you wish to use this material:
Hydrogen peroxide bench testing: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/hydrogen-peroxide-bench-testing.803/
Calculator for proper dosing: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-disease-calculators.997311/
There is some evidence that using peroxides with UV does not work, as the UV can break down the peroxides.
You also need to examine WHY it is a popular method - is it just because you can purchase peroxide at any drug store?
Jay
Ich Management for Cryptocaryon irritans
Warning: Starting Ich Management during an active infection only works if the number of trophonts on the fish is below a certain number. Above that number and the trophonts themselves become stressors and the parasite gains a foothold, despite your attempts to manage it. So what is that number? It depends on too many variables - but I start to expect Ich Management to fail if the number of spots on any one fish is above 30 or so.
Because many aquarists mix fish and invertebrates, they are ill-prepared to then treat for marine ich, as the two best treatments, amine-based copper or hyposalinity, cannot be used with invertebrates. A popular technique has then arisen, “ich management”. It is popular not because it works well, but because it is an easier alternative. Be forewarned, it often fails if applied during moderate infections. The reason that it exists as a technique at all is because people find themselves in situations like this and are desperate to try anything.
The basic idea is to reduce the infective propagules (tomites) of the ich parasite to the point where the fish's acquired immunity can fight the infection off. This is done through a series of techniques for stress reduction and tomite limiting. Unfortunately, the ich tomites themselves cause stress to the fish, (propagule pressure) so if the fish have more than 30 or so trophonts on them, the method often fails.
First, you must be 100% certain of your diagnosis and that the fish do not have concurrent infections of ich plus something else. This process ONLY works against mild cases of ich.
1) Install a powerful UV sterilizer on the aquarium. A minimum kill factor of greater than 200,000 uWs/cm2 is needed.
2) Ensure that the fish's diet and water quality are the best you can make them.
3) Do not add non-quarantined fish to any system where you are managing ich.
4) Keep the water temperature close to 78 degrees F. Raising the water temperature only makes the parasite reproduce faster
5) Siphon off the tank floor nightly to remove as many tomonts as possible.
6) Employ strong mechanical filtration to trap as many tomites as possible.
7) Hydrogen peroxide dosed at 10 mg/l has been shown to reduce the number of theronts in the water (see note below).
8) Try a proprietary "reef safe" marine ich medication. These rarely cure ich infections on their own, but some may have benefit when combined with other management methods. Avoid the herbal remedies, focus on those that contain peroxide salts (but then do not use point 7 above).
Note - Hydrogen peroxide: This is a popular adjunct method for "ich management". It is much more difficult to use than some people will have you think. H2O2 is an oxidant, and the amount of left reactive in your aquarium's water is dependent on the level of organics available to be oxidized. These amounts are different for each tank and they change with the continued additions of peroxide. Therefore, these simply is no "one dose" that works in all instances. Using a hydrogen peroxide test strip is highly recommended! Here are some resources if you wish to use this material:
Hydrogen peroxide bench testing: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/hydrogen-peroxide-bench-testing.803/
Calculator for proper dosing: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-disease-calculators.997311/
There is some evidence that using peroxides with UV does not work, as the UV can break down the peroxides.
You also need to examine WHY it is a popular method - is it just because you can purchase peroxide at any drug store?
Jay