Just started got question

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The porous rock acts as a biological filter. The surface area houses bacteria that break down waste products, thus acting as your main filtration. Was the rock dry before adding it? Or was it in another system with fish and such?
Rock was dry before adding.
 
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Tank is not cycled.
You need an ammonia test kit.
Don't add any further livestock.
You need a refractometer & calibration solution too.

Without meaning to sound rude-you need to do lots of reading & research too before you go any further.
Ok, will see if i can refractometer/calibration solution along with the ammonia test kit at local stores today, thanks
 

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Huh, probably should of mentioned but the rock and sand I use is from CaribSea if that helps
Ok here is what I suggest. If you have a petco or pet smart I go get an API salt water test kit as they are readily available at most fish stores . This test kit will get you through your cycle but you will need a better method or testing once cycle is complete. To be successful in this hobby it’s all about a stable environment especially when keeping coral. I would also order Fritz Zyme via Amazon and dose as directed. I personally would not add anymore live stock until tank cycle is complete. Using the test kit I suggested will let you know when tank has completed its cycle. Feel free to ask any questions moving forward. Good luck and welcome to R2R
 

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The good news is the critters you have in there will produce minimal ammonia, the corals (and soon algae) will consume it, and all those critters and corals will have brought in cycling bacteria.

Other good news is that on a tank this small you can easily manage ammonia with water changes - a 20% water change is fairly trivial on a 5 gallon tank.

Between water changes (esp on a system that small) and the low ammonia producing bioload you have a decent chance to ride this out for a cycle.

The bad news is a few of those corals, especially the stony ones, are going to be very sensitive to water parameters, biostability, lighting and flow - they are going to have a very hard time right now. I’d prepare to lose some/most of them.

Don’t add any more invertebrates for a bit, and don’t add any fish yet either. I suggest waiting 3-4 weeks before you add any new life.

In the meantime - get yourself a test kit for ammonia and nitrates so you know you’re cycled. IMO api is satisfactory for this purpose - in the initial stages, especially for ammonia, and more looking at a “pass/fail” outcome - ie: is ammonia going down and are nitrates going up. You don’t need a $70-80 test for each of these parameters at this stage. Especially ammonia as once you’re cycled you probably won’t test it again.
 
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Oh actually one last question, food wise what should I be using? Hobby store recommended benereef powder and just mix a small amount. Been mixing like an 1/8th of a tsp of both food and water, waiting 5 minutes then dumping it in the tank.
 

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Please do the research before buying fish to ensure they can be happy in that tank, and sorry but not many will. This size tank is more of an invert and coral tank, very few fishes belong in this tank, if any.
 
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Please do the research before buying fish to ensure they can be happy in that tank, and sorry but not many will. This size tank is more of an invert and coral tank, very few fishes belong in this tank, if any.
Figured as much, wasn't planning on adding fish when I first got anything.
 

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Is there any way you can get some established rock that has been in a tank for a while? If so, even if it is a smaller rock, it will help a ton.

If you're not feeding and have a decent water change schedule with that established rock, you should be able to do it. Fishless frag tanks have been set up without without much of a cycle, but are more for the hobbyist that has more experience. You will definitely go through an ugly phase, and get diatoms and most likely hair algae, so look into those and what you can do. You want your nitrates under 10 in the first year and phosphates under .10 to help deter these while your tank establishes itself.
 
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Wasnt able to get a refractometer but was able to get a hydrometer, filled it and salinity is staying at 1.031, any tips?
 
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are you sure?! I.031? That’s off the scale almost ….way too high! 1.026 maximum 1.024 ideal.
believe i did it right, filled up hydrometer, then tapped it to remove any bubbles and let it sit for about 5 minutes, was in between 1.030 and 1.032, closer to 1.030 though. Only thing I'm not sure is how its supposed to be filled, had to fully submerge it to fill it up enough. Will do another test to double check
 

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believe i did it right, filled up hydrometer, then tapped it to remove any bubbles and let it sit for about 5 minutes, was in between 1.030 and 1.032, closer to 1.030 though. Only thing I'm not sure is how its supposed to be filled, had to fully submerge it to fill it up enough. Will do another test to double check
Which one is it? What brand
 

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