Moved RO/DI to the Basement...need advice.

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pdiehm

pdiehm

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I ordered a handheld yesterday.

we do not have well water, it comes from a water supply that I have no idea where it is. Once I get my handheld (I hope by friday), I should be able to better say what my TDS of tap water vs TDS of RO is.

If I'm understanding the diagram right:

Water Source--> Sediment -> Carbon 1 -> Carbon 2 -> Booster -> Membrane 1 -> Membrane 2 -> Pressure Valve -> DI 1 -> DI 2 -> Storage container.
 

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Yep. Once the pressure switch (not valve) senses backpressure from a float valve being raised, exactly like a toilet tank float, or a closed ball valve when you shut it off, or a solenoid valve and float switches or whatever you have, it will shut the booster pump off.
 
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pdiehm

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great. I'll start looking for a centralized place to mount it.

I'm very new to this, I've asked a million questions. I havent' even set up the tank inside (due to the extreme cold temps outside and my tank is in the garage at the moment). I figure it's the first million questions that will set me up for success before I get to the next million questions, which will take my tank from a success to a work of art :)
 
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Booster arrived. all hoooked up. PSI is now 96-ish. Triple in line TDS reads ERR now. Noisy as all hell. 13 minutes to make a gallon of water. I guess the slowness is now attributed to the 50 degree water temps.
 
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Got my handheld TDS meter.

Tap Water is 309/310
RODI is 0

Depending on the circumstances, the water entering the first DI Resin canister is 6-10 (96.7%-98% rejection).
 

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Booster arrived. all hoooked up. PSI is now 96-ish. Triple in line TDS reads ERR now. Noisy as all hell. 13 minutes to make a gallon of water. I guess the slowness is now attributed to the 50 degree water temps.

I hate the booster pump that most people use. Shurflo Gold Series is far quieter. You can try to quiet your Aquatec down by plumbing the feed line to the sediment filter first, and then to the pump. This will also keep crap out of the pump.
 
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