OP
OP
Remember too it’ll take two months on avg for changes to show, slow
and along the way you need to be fighting any remassing of invasion, if strings of red re appear on the sandbed it’ll be a tiny bit you can siphon up and not allow to grow, I don’t plan that a partial cleaning run though we’re being thorough would be cured in one pass, it’s stasis changes that matter most. Make sure you production water is ro, di with good resins working well at zero total dissolved solids
the fluconazole / reef flux / you would run at half a dose to your gallonage only if green tufted growths resume on the rock, and it’s likely to happen since this will be first manual cleaning
save the fluc only run it if growback begins on the rocks after your entire tank is cleaned manually though we are doing it without disassembly
the rocks still need manual surgical cleaning. If one is an arch, then plan to rescape that into a bommie or pile vs an arch, a glued arch is inaccessible and that’s where algae wants to be, out of your willing access location. Most of your scape can be lifted out one section at a time, set on the counter.
dribble saltwater across corals occasionally as you work on the rocks in the air, on the counter. You’d use a kitchen knife to detail scrape rasp and sharply score off algae so you cut the holdfasts out of the rocks, it’ll take a few hours and nothing works like reef dentistry, that’s what youre doing to make those rocks algae free, one at a time. When a given scraped area is algae free, via knife and time and saltwater rinses to wash the debrided algae down the sink, you take the clean section of rocks and put common peroxide on the cleaned spots, after rasping, which helps burn invisible holdfast cells you missed during rasping and rinse. This does not remove the cycle on your rocks even if they are on the counter for an hour, be spraying corals with saltwater occasionally they can just sit on the rock in the air, the corals you have arent super sensitive to air emersion when kept wet.
detail every rock this way, you could easily do one section as practice tonite. This is the crucial step nobody did in the six hundred page fluc thread, they chose to leave the algae, avoid the work, and rot the cells in the tank. Physically fixing the algae with metal knives isn’t brushing algae, brushes are bad they smash bits of algae into the rock
dentistry uses a knife and rasps roughly, working around corals with precision force
it leaves no cells to degrade in your tank, your outcome will be different than the fluc thread even though we used fluc as a parachute to save you having to do all the rocks again.
this thread is strictly for disassembly full take down rip cleans because we want only that certain outcome shown in the picture logs, a homogenous work theme in place to test out for years the roughest method of handling reef tanks. There are no safety issues with full disassembly cleaning because it leaves no waste; doing in-tank work has a small chance of bringing latent fish disease into action, a low but possible chance, and there’s a tiny chance that upwelled detritus can kill or stress the tank it’s just not very likely in your setup due to variables shown in the pic. I was willing to take this one chance to do a non rip clean in the rip clean thread considering the degree of physical work and access those rocks will require / that part is still very on par for our thread. We are the only thread that does external rock work, on the counter, never using brushes and using an ordered set of actions to make a tank nearly perfectly free of invasion without wait.
I truly think these combos can bring that big tank back into line.
UV simply has the chance to extend out that period where you aren’t doing a lot of follow up hand guiding.
and along the way you need to be fighting any remassing of invasion, if strings of red re appear on the sandbed it’ll be a tiny bit you can siphon up and not allow to grow, I don’t plan that a partial cleaning run though we’re being thorough would be cured in one pass, it’s stasis changes that matter most. Make sure you production water is ro, di with good resins working well at zero total dissolved solids
the fluconazole / reef flux / you would run at half a dose to your gallonage only if green tufted growths resume on the rock, and it’s likely to happen since this will be first manual cleaning
save the fluc only run it if growback begins on the rocks after your entire tank is cleaned manually though we are doing it without disassembly
the rocks still need manual surgical cleaning. If one is an arch, then plan to rescape that into a bommie or pile vs an arch, a glued arch is inaccessible and that’s where algae wants to be, out of your willing access location. Most of your scape can be lifted out one section at a time, set on the counter.
dribble saltwater across corals occasionally as you work on the rocks in the air, on the counter. You’d use a kitchen knife to detail scrape rasp and sharply score off algae so you cut the holdfasts out of the rocks, it’ll take a few hours and nothing works like reef dentistry, that’s what youre doing to make those rocks algae free, one at a time. When a given scraped area is algae free, via knife and time and saltwater rinses to wash the debrided algae down the sink, you take the clean section of rocks and put common peroxide on the cleaned spots, after rasping, which helps burn invisible holdfast cells you missed during rasping and rinse. This does not remove the cycle on your rocks even if they are on the counter for an hour, be spraying corals with saltwater occasionally they can just sit on the rock in the air, the corals you have arent super sensitive to air emersion when kept wet.
detail every rock this way, you could easily do one section as practice tonite. This is the crucial step nobody did in the six hundred page fluc thread, they chose to leave the algae, avoid the work, and rot the cells in the tank. Physically fixing the algae with metal knives isn’t brushing algae, brushes are bad they smash bits of algae into the rock
dentistry uses a knife and rasps roughly, working around corals with precision force
it leaves no cells to degrade in your tank, your outcome will be different than the fluc thread even though we used fluc as a parachute to save you having to do all the rocks again.
this thread is strictly for disassembly full take down rip cleans because we want only that certain outcome shown in the picture logs, a homogenous work theme in place to test out for years the roughest method of handling reef tanks. There are no safety issues with full disassembly cleaning because it leaves no waste; doing in-tank work has a small chance of bringing latent fish disease into action, a low but possible chance, and there’s a tiny chance that upwelled detritus can kill or stress the tank it’s just not very likely in your setup due to variables shown in the pic. I was willing to take this one chance to do a non rip clean in the rip clean thread considering the degree of physical work and access those rocks will require / that part is still very on par for our thread. We are the only thread that does external rock work, on the counter, never using brushes and using an ordered set of actions to make a tank nearly perfectly free of invasion without wait.
I truly think these combos can bring that big tank back into line.
UV simply has the chance to extend out that period where you aren’t doing a lot of follow up hand guiding.
