Oxydators and their fight against parasites.

[atoll]

You mean feeding 2 to 3 times a day?
Yes?

Yes.

 

[atoll]

I just read your post from 2018 again.
that one where you replied to Atoll. You said that in high concentration the activated oxygen could weaken the parasite.
I really believe it the advantages of the oxidator and using H2O2. It all sounds logical to me. So my question is, what would be the maximum dosage before I hurt corals or my anemone. And what are the signs of them being not happy.
Please have in mind that for me as a beginner, a deflated anemone that is basically sleeping doesn’t look much different to an unhappy one, if you know what I mean. So, if thinks go south with the fish, I would be ok to go a little towards trying the max dose but of course it would be really important to know what to look out for when it comes to unhappy (unhealthy) corals and anemones.

I just placed the oxidator next to the return pump for now to optimize the efficiency. Putting it in the DT now would cause a lot of stress, because everybody is sleeping.

Thank you
Chris

To a certain extent the Oxydator is self regulating so unless you already have a dosage close to causing an issue you have no need to worry about day and night with an Oxydator.
I never recommend more than 12% peroxide in the models A or W. You can then control the dosing with the number of catalysts.
If you go to high with dosing anemones will sulk quite quickly and can turn their inners inside out if you go really OTT.

 

[chris new reefer]

I do not really know their lamps but I found some description of them that indicate that this PL-L lamps are of the type that catalyze H2O2.

The Ich parasite is hatch in the sand or substrate. UV-C without combination with peroxide can only kill the larvae inside the UV-C - it means that the newly hatched larvae must be sucked up by the UV-C before they hit a fish. If the intake to the UV-C is in the bottom of the aquarium and you have a stream in the bottom forward to the inlet - the chance that the newly hatched parasite will be sucked up and killed is much, much higher

If you temporary put the oxidator in the DT - it could be more effective. You will see on the corals if you have a too high amount of non catalyst H2O2 coming out from the oxydator.

Sincerely Lasse

Hi Lasse and @atoll

I did put the oxidator in the DT and run it with the dosage you recommended

I am a bit nervous on the outcome, so I am trying to figure out my options.
catching all the fish and put them in QT to treat them is no option. There is no way to catch them. But I have a coral tank set up. I could easily take out all corals and the cleaner shrimp and place them in that frag tank. Then I could treat my main tank. Usually i use SERA costapur F when I had ICH in my qt on new fishes. It worked really good.
The only problem is the anemone. I can’t get her out of the DT and I really don’t know how she would react to the treatment.
The manufacturer says on the webpage
“Some inverts don’t tolerate the treatment “.
I know from other forums, that corals don’t like it.
But I can’t find any information about anemones.
most of the fishes are fine. They are all active and eating. But they all have some white spots now.
the clown female is not doing so well.
she eats but she is not active.
And she “sits” in the anemone with a constant wide open mouth.
If the situation gets worse, it would be a decision between the 10+ fish and the anemone. But I am pretty sure, that I start the treatment when the first fish are dying, with or without the BTA.

again, only checking my options to prepare some plans.

thanks a lot for your opinions!

Chris

 

[atoll]

Hi Lasse and @atoll

I did put the oxidator in the DT and run it with the dosage you recommended

I am a bit nervous on the outcome, so I am trying to figure out my options.
catching all the fish and put them in QT to treat them is no option. There is no way to catch them. But I have a coral tank set up. I could easily take out all corals and the cleaner shrimp and place them in that frag tank. Then I could treat my main tank. Usually i use SERA costapur F when I had ICH in my qt on new fishes. It worked really good.
The only problem is the anemone. I can’t get her out of the DT and I really don’t know how she would react to the treatment.
The manufacturer says on the webpage
“Some inverts don’t tolerate the treatment “.
I know from other forums, that corals don’t like it.
But I can’t find any information about anemones.
most of the fishes are fine. They are all active and eating. But they all have some white spots now.
the clown female is not doing so well.
she eats but she is not active.
And she “sits” in the anemone with a constant wide open mouth.
If the situation gets worse, it would be a decision between the 10+ fish and the anemone. But I am pretty sure, that I start the treatment when the first fish are dying, with or without the BTA.

again, only checking my options to prepare some plans.

thanks a lot for your opinions!

Chris

How long has the Oxydator been in the DT, what strength are you now using along with the number of catalysts?

 

[Abhishek]

I have been trying to source a model W for my 160 gallon acro dominated tank for sometime now . Would like to get rid of the pentair UV and with my high fish load , would definitely love to try anything that produces more oxygen .
If you can help me source one , it will be so helpful - @atoll
Lastly what strength of h2o2 to start with if it’s just for experimenting purpose ? Can 3% even work ?

 

[chris new reefer]

How long has the Oxydator been in the DT, what strength are you now using along with the number of catalysts?

It’s in the dt since 4 hours. It was in the sump since two days.
i use 12% with 2 catalysts in a 480l system

 

[HuduVudu]

It’s in the dt since 4 hours. It was in the sump since two days.
i use 12% with 2 catalysts in a 480l system

Slow down!

You are moving to fast. Listen to @atoll. None of this is going to happen fast. It is like trying to steer a boat. When you oversteer then the boat careens in another direction too fast, if you keep overcompensating you just pull back in forth and this is the type of instability that causes tanks to crash and fish to die.

Move slow and deliberately. Nudge don't push. You will get there.

 

[atoll]

I have been trying to source a model W for my 160 gallon acro dominated tank for sometime now . Would like to get rid of the pentair UV and with my high fish load , would definitely love to try anything that produces more oxygen .
If you can help me source one , it will be so helpful - @atoll
Lastly what strength of h2o2 to start with if it’s just for experimenting purpose ? Can 3% even work ?

I would go for the W model if you can fit one in your sump. I am in the UK if your in the US then I believe a shop called the shrimp tank sells them?
You should be able to start with 9 or maybe 12% and 2 catalysts perhaps moving to 3 if all well. Initially redox will drop before climbing back up past what it was before you add the Oxydator.

 

[chris new reefer]

Slow down!

You are moving to fast. Listen to @atoll. None of this is going to happen fast. It is like trying to steer a boat. When you oversteer then the boat careens in another direction too fast, if you keep overcompensating you just pull back in forth and this is the type of instability that causes tanks to crash and fish to die.

Move slow and deliberately. Nudge don't push. You will get there.

Thank you very much for your advice.
I really appreciate that.

I am just very scared that fish starting to die soon.
And it would be so easy to just remove 10 coral frags into my running frag tank and leave only the fish in the main display and treat them (not copper, but the German version). Then leave the corals in the frag tank for 76 days and move them back.
all those corals are in the main display not longer than 6 weeks. So they haven’t really settled anyways. The frag tank is running in the next room. So it would be a 30 minutes mission to move them.

Iam still optimistic about the oxidator but since it is a very new system, there is probably not coming an easier time to get it completely ICH free.

usually i don’t have a problem to have patience but I am just not sure if a quick action is more beneficial, because the situation is changing fast in the wrong direction in the moment.

 

[HuduVudu]

I am just very scared that fish starting to die soon.

Fear is motivating you, not your incredibly effective prefrontal cortex. This happens to everyone and it is our job to work through the fear and make good decisions. Fear based decisions are the worst possible decisions to make.

And it would be so easy ...

Indeed the easy way is truly the hard way. Don't fall for this trap.

usually i don’t have a problem to have patience but I am just not sure if a quick action is more beneficial, because the situation is changing fast in the wrong direction in the moment.

Most people are patient ... UNTIL the fear kicks in. Then they become different people. Once again don't let the fear make decisions for you, they won't be good ones, and they will end up being completely counter-productive.

The difference between a reefer that is experienced and reefer that is new is the older reefer doesn't let fear and his/her feelings get in the way of what is best for the tank. This isn't an easy lesson to learn. Perhaps now would be a good time for you to start this process.

 

[Lasse]

If it is not looking normal - thats the first sign. Also note that water with a lot of organics in it will consume much of the free radicals - lesser impact on corals. Good and clear water can cause impact at lower H2O2 levels.

The question to move or not to move your corals - You will not get the answer which is the wrong way until afterwards and you will never get an answer which was the right way.

In this case - I would run both the UVC and the oxydator. If you see any bad signs on your corals - you maybe should move them - IME - corals that have been overdosed with H2O2 will repair themselves when the overdose disappear.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[chris new reefer]

If it is not looking normal - thats the first sign. Also note that water with a lot of organics in it will consume much of the free radicals - lesser impact on corals. Good and clear water can cause impact at lower H2O2 levels.

The question to move or not to move your corals - You will not get the answer which is the wrong way until afterwards and you will never get an answer which was the right way.

In this case - I would run both the UVC and the oxydator. If you see any bad signs on your corals - you maybe should move them - IME - corals that have been overdosed with H2O2 will repair themselves when the overdose disappear.

Sincerely Lasse

Thank you.

iam not so scared about the corals.
I am more scared about the fish.
3 days ago it was only a few white spots on 3 fish. No basically all of the have white spots.
So my thoughts are more in the direction to save the fish and treat them with medication.
The corals would be fine in the frag tank (i think )

 

[chris new reefer]

Quick update.
after rethinking all the very helpful advices, I’ll keep everything as it is for now.

Oxidator is in the main display and I’ll feed a bit more often. Also I’ll leave the tank alone as much as possible to reduce stress.

One question for @Lasse or @atoll
What I see is a bigger bubble coming out of the Oxidator every 30 seconds or so.
would you say this is normal?

Thanks again everyone who gave me advice and helped me in this situation.

 

[atoll]

Quick update.
after rethinking all the very helpful advices, I’ll keep everything as it is for now.

Oxidator is in the main display and I’ll feed a bit more often. Also I’ll leave the tank alone as much as possible to reduce stress.

One question for @Lasse or @atoll
What I see is a bigger bubble coming out of the Oxidator every 30 seconds or so.
would you say this is normal?

Thanks again everyone who gave me advice and helped me in this situation.

Ate you also seeing much smaller bubbles along with the big bubble?

 

[PeterC99]

Have really enjoyed reading about oxydators and their benefits.

Anyone know where you can purchase an Oxydator in the US? Have searched Internet with no luck.

Thank you.

 

[chris new reefer]

Ate you also seeing much smaller bubbles along with the big bubble?

I saw a lot of small bubbles in the beginning.
now just a few small one and the big one every 30 seconds

 

[atoll]

I saw a lot of small bubbles in the beginning.
now just a few small one and the big one every 30 seconds

Yeah that's quite normal. Your producing a lot of oxygen just be sure the bottle is seated upright before putting the ball on top and central to the ceramic pot.

 

[brandon429]

Atoll was anyone able to run dissolved oxygen before and after readings w the oxydator yet

 

[Patryk1982]

if I do tests, at what concentration should Oxydator be used

 

[atoll]

Atoll was anyone able to run dissolved oxygen before and after readings w the oxydator yet

Perhaps @Lasse has done. My Salifert O2 kit only arrived yesterday had not had time to use it yet.