Please Help with my Hippo Tang

[AlessioSG]

Hi guys,

I am having an issue with my blue hippo tang. This morning, when i fed all the fishes, he did not come out as usual. He remained in the crevice of the rocks. He seems almost dead since he was not moving. Now he is swimming very slowly against the glass and he did not eat, despite i added additional food for him. He has no white spots, no abrasions, nothing. He looks normal. I am just fighting vs a dino bloom using Dino-X

 

[AlessioSG]

Hi guys,

I am having an issue with my blue hippo tang. This morning, when i fed all the fishes, he did not come out as usual. He remained in the crevice of the rocks. He seems almost dead since he was not moving. Now he is swimming very slowly against the glass and he did not eat, despite i added additional food for him. He has no white spots, no abrasions, nothing. He looks normal. I am just fighting vs a dino bloom using Dino-X

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi guys,

I am having an issue with my blue hippo tang. This morning, when i fed all the fishes, he did not come out as usual. He remained in the crevice of the rocks. He seems almost dead since he was not moving. Now he is swimming very slowly against the glass and he did not eat, despite i added additional food for him. He has no white spots, no abrasions, nothing. He looks normal. I am just fighting vs a dino bloom using Dino-X

While coincidence, the DinoX rarely works and may play a role with this behavior. Rub fresh carbon and this much safer approach:
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

 

[AlessioSG]

While coincidence, the DinoX rarely works and may play a role with this behavior. Rub fresh carbon and this much safer approach:
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

Thanks for the prompt reply. Ok, i will stop using Dino-X and will follow your suggestion. Cheers, A.

 

[AlessioSG]

Bad news! My hippo tang just passed away. According to my lfs (he saw the video I wanted to attach here but I could not), most likely he died of gill flukes. I totally overlooked and did not give the right importance to him scratching against rocks a couple of weeks ago.
Now, he suggested to go full force with Prazigold in the display tank until the other fishes are still alive, although nobody else is scratching now.
He suggested to slighly overdose Prazigold, keep everybody in for a week, do a 50% water change, then again Prazigold (underdosed this time), one week and multiple water changes of 30% over the following weeks.
Honestly, dino bloom is no longer an important issue since i give max priority to fishes/corals/invertebrates. Any suggestion are welcome?
Btw, I cannot believe that until yesterday my hippo was eating and swimming normally and after 12 hours... Mah
Thanks a lot again!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Bad news! My hippo tang just passed away. According to my lfs (he saw the video I wanted to attach here but I could not), most likely he died of gill flukes. I totally overlooked and did not give the right importance to him scratching against rocks a couple of weeks ago.
Now, he suggested to go full force with Prazigold in the display tank until the other fishes are still alive, although nobody else is scratching now.
He suggested to slighly overdose Prazigold, keep everybody in for a week, do a 50% water change, then again Prazigold (underdosed this time), one week and multiple water changes of 30% over the following weeks.
Honestly, dino bloom is no longer an important issue since i give max priority to fishes/corals/invertebrates. Any suggestion are welcome?
Btw, I cannot believe that until yesterday my hippo was eating and swimming normally and after 12 hours... Mah
Thanks a lot again!

If the tang had gill flukes, it would have been showing rapid breathing as well - did you see that?

Prazigold is essentially the same as the Prazipro we have in the US. You should dose that for the amount of water your tank actually holds, don't over or under dose it. You need to aerate the water well during treatment, and space the two treatments 8 days apart. Water changes can be done 36 hours after each treatment if need be.

Jay

 

[AlessioSG]

If the tang had gill flukes, it would have been showing rapid breathing as well - did you see that?

Prazigold is essentially the same as the Prazipro we have in the US. You should dose that for the amount of water your tank actually holds, don't over or under dose it. You need to aerate the water well during treatment, and space the two treatments 8 days apart. Water changes can be done 36 hours after each treatment if need be.

Jay

Thanks Jay. Yes, for a few hours before dying it was motionless on the sandbed breathing extremely rapidly. What I do not understand is how such a dramatic event occurs in a such a little time (i.e. 12 hours). I did not have time to react. What can I do next time (other than treating the fishes with Prazigold immediately) to try to save his life?

Can I keep the light at 10% (no white, just blue) and add daily 1ml of liquid bacteria during the Prazigold treatment?

Thanks again!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thanks Jay. Yes, for a few hours before dying it was motionless on the sandbed breathing extremely rapidly. What I do not understand is how such a dramatic event occurs in a such a little time (i.e. 12 hours). I did not have time to react. What can I do next time (other than treating the fishes with Prazigold immediately) to try to save his life?

Can I keep the light at 10% (no white, just blue) and add daily 1ml of liquid bacteria during the Prazigold treatment?

Thanks again!

The fish may have been breathing faster in recent days, but that is a relative thing and is easily missed.