POLL - Do you Run Carbon or No? I hear it is bad for Zoanthids and Chalices and can cause Lateral L

[ryecoon]

Ok now if i only have a HOB Refugium. Where should i place the chemi-pure? i was told to remove my Hob Mechanical filter where i kept my carbon, chemi pure, sponges etc. i was told it will have no use in my reef only for freshwater hobbyists. My last question. Can i rince my chemi-pure bag and re-use it if it has been out the water for about a week or 2?

 

[ryecoon]

Since Chemi-pure/Carbon removes phospates. Is this only ideal to have for a mixed reef? with both sps and lps? I know lps love a little bit of nitrate and phospates and sps hate it. Anyone have a mixed reef set up? what method do you use in maintaining parameters?

 

[that Reef Guy]

Activated carbon is a chemical filtration media that is very well suited for removing dissolved organic compounds. The benefits of regular use are crystal clear water and removal of foul odors. An additional benefit of carbon is it binds up some of the toxins released by tank inhabitants that are used by those organisms to wage chemical warfare against their neighbors.
Activated carbon is essentially just charcoal that is treated with oxygen to open up millions of pores at the microscopic level. These pores make the carbon highly reactive by way of adsorption.
Adsorption differs from absorption in that adsorption is accomplished by a weak chemical bond that occurs only at the surface of the compound. It is for this reason that the surface area of carbon has such an effect on its performance.
Absorption is a filtering effect that occurs throughout the entire volume. Imagine how a sponge soaks up and traps water for example. To some degree, both occur when activated carbon is utilized in the home aquarium, but mainly it is the adsorption effect that makes it a form of chemical filtration.
As stated above, activated carbon removes organic compounds from aquaria by adsorption and absorption principles. Both processes involve the transfer of the pollutants from the water to the solid phase.
Adsorption relies on electrostatic Van der Walls forces. This attractive “force†forms relatively weak bonds between the carbon and dissolved organic compounds in the water. Activated carbon could release, or desorb, what it removed at some point, but practically speaking, this rarely occurs. Bacteria readily colonize the outer surface of the activated carbon and consume some of the sorbed organics. The bacterial action reactivates a small portion of the carbon and, perhaps, prevents desorption.
Absorption refers to the diffusion of compounds into the porous network where physical entrapment takes place. Ozone, for example, is absorbed into activated carbon and is thus “detoxified†and made safe for the aquarium.
When placing it in the reef system, high flow is beneficial, so we recommend placing it in a strong flow area of the sump or in its own reactor. As a side note, activated carbon can get dusty, so it is a wise choice to rinse it thoroughly to prevent small particles from drifting around your reef.
There are some common myths about activated carbon I need to dispel:

Myth #1: It can be recharged in an oven.
FACT: The process of activating the material means increasing its internal surface area and getting rid of impurities. This is done at nearly 2,000°F in a controlled environment. Technically, it is possible to recharge spent activated carbon, but it won’t be done at home.
Myth #2: It will mess up your water chemistry.
FACT: Carbon does not remove ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate from water. It also does not have an effect on water hardness or alkalinity.
Myth #3: It will remove trace elements.
FACT: Activated carbon does not have a major effect on trace elements. Trace elements such as cesium, chromium, cadmium, selenium, cobalt, silver, lead, tin, helium, lanthanum, and cerium are not really soluble in sea water (and possibly toxic in non-trace quantities). Thus, the TLDR answer is that in the marine aquarium, activated carbon will not remove trace elements.
Conclusion
In short, activated carbon is the most prevalent form of chemical filtration in the hobby for a reason. It is highly effective and easy to use. Best of all, it is one of the least expensive methods to filter an aquarium given its dramatic improvements on water quality.

Wow. You sure know alot about Carbon.

But what is your take on cheap vs. expensive carbon like others mention.

Is Tetra or Marineland bad?

Do you know if they use phosphoric acid like the other poster mentioned?

 

[vetteguy53081]

You want a quality activated or super carbon. There IS a difference.
I trust Marineland but moreso, trust Lab grade such as chemipure.
There will be some Phos acid as it is the active agent.

 

[kurtyboh]

Vetteguy copied all of that directly from this article. http://www.saltwatersmarts.com/activated-carbon-in-reef-aquarium-2908/

You want to avoid using carbon washed with phosphoric acid as it can leach phosphate s back out

 

[Worldwide reefs]

Oh boy we gotta cite our sources guys! C'mon there's enough confusion in this hobby without not citing proper references!

 

[Dustyboots]

Read this interesting article:
http://joejaworski.wordpress.com/2008/05/09/does-a-reef-tank-need-carbon/

 

[Dustyboots]

I use 2 units of chemipure in my reef, just next to the return pump. Excellent.

 

[thatrugbydude]

Do you Run Carbon or No?

I hear it is bad for Zoanthids and Chalices?

I have also heard that it causes Lateral Line Disease in Fish.

And Many Chalices that I get Die so I am thinking about not using it anymore.

On all Four of my Aquariums I have a Tetra Hang on the Back Cascading Freshwater Filter.

I change the Filter Pad in them Weekly adding Brand New Carbon once a week.

Do you guys think that this is a good idea or not?

Please take part in the Poll and please tell me why you Do or Do Not Run Carbon.

Some people run carbon for 24-72 hrs once a month, some not at all,
Some 24/7. It's a matter of bacteria occurring in your tank. I don't change mine once a week, once a month. I have 3 chalices, and dozens of named zoas none have trouble with carbon. Maybe you're changing it too frequently and not allowing enough good bacteria build up causing the water to be too clean/ clear and burning your corals

 

[thatrugbydude]

Do you use "Special" Carbon?

My LFS sells Regular Carbon and also "Reef Carbon"

I use the Freshwater Carbon that comes in Silver Packets from Tetra.

Is that why my Corals are Dying?

Should I use a different type of Carbon?

You should be using activated carbon in a stocking, fluidized chamber, or a sock as in a micron sock as to never leach it into your system. It should be big pellets and hiss when you rinse it under cold water before putting it in the filter of your choosing, you need to weigh out/ buy pre made carbon bags to your specific tank water volume. Carbon should always be rinsed in cold water before use and tetras carbon is not meant for reef systems.

 

[Reef Pets]

Activated carbon is a chemical filtration media that is very well suited for removing dissolved organic compounds. The benefits of regular use are crystal clear water and removal of foul odors. An additional benefit of carbon is it binds up some of the toxins released by tank inhabitants that are used by those organisms to wage chemical warfare against their neighbors.
Activated carbon is essentially just charcoal that is treated with oxygen to open up millions of pores at the microscopic level. These pores make the carbon highly reactive by way of adsorption.
Adsorption differs from absorption in that adsorption is accomplished by a weak chemical bond that occurs only at the surface of the compound. It is for this reason that the surface area of carbon has such an effect on its performance.
Absorption is a filtering effect that occurs throughout the entire volume. Imagine how a sponge soaks up and traps water for example. To some degree, both occur when activated carbon is utilized in the home aquarium, but mainly it is the adsorption effect that makes it a form of chemical filtration.
[h=2][/h]As stated above, activated carbon removes organic compounds from aquaria by adsorption and absorption principles. Both processes involve the transfer of the pollutants from the water to the solid phase.
Adsorption relies on electrostatic Van der Walls forces. This attractive “force” forms relatively weak bonds between the carbon and dissolved organic compounds in the water. Activated carbon could release, or desorb, what it removed at some point, but practically speaking, this rarely occurs. Bacteria readily colonize the outer surface of the activated carbon and consume some of the sorbed organics. The bacterial action reactivates a small portion of the carbon and, perhaps, prevents desorption.
Absorption refers to the diffusion of compounds into the porous network where physical entrapment takes place. Ozone, for example, is absorbed into activated carbon and is thus “detoxified” and made safe for the aquarium.
When placing it in the reef system, high flow is beneficial, so we recommend placing it in a strong flow area of the sump or in its own reactor. As a side note, activated carbon can get dusty, so it is a wise choice to rinse it thoroughly to prevent small particles from drifting around your reef.
[h=2][/h]There are some common myths about activated carbon I need to dispel:

Myth #1: It can be recharged in an oven.
FACT: The process of activating the material means increasing its internal surface area and getting rid of impurities. This is done at nearly 2,000°F in a controlled environment. Technically, it is possible to recharge spent activated carbon, but it won’t be done at home.
Myth #2: It will mess up your water chemistry.
FACT: Carbon does not remove ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate from water. It also does not have an effect on water hardness or alkalinity.
Myth #3: It will remove trace elements.
FACT: Activated carbon does not have a major effect on trace elements. Trace elements such as cesium, chromium, cadmium, selenium, cobalt, silver, lead, tin, helium, lanthanum, and cerium are not really soluble in sea water (and possibly toxic in non-trace quantities). Thus, the TLDR answer is that in the marine aquarium, activated carbon will not remove trace elements.
Conclusion
In short, activated carbon is the most prevalent form of chemical filtration in the hobby for a reason. It is highly effective and easy to use. Best of all, it is one of the least expensive methods to filter an aquarium given its dramatic improvements on water quality.

Good info. I have always ran carbon.

 

[Dog Boy Dave]

IF you do a google search (carbon-lateral line erosion) your return will show many studies linking carbon use to lateral line erosion in large commercial aquaria. I wont link any as I find that most on these forums wont follow and read a link to an original source. The few that will probably know how to use google. (yea both of you) However, the commercial aquariums use it in containers that are moved with forklifts and cranes. IE: when they change carbon they use a LOT of carbon. Theory is that it's the fine particles that escape into the water cause the issue. That being said, I would expect that most lateral line erosion at the hobbyist level is NOT caused by carbon.

 

[that Reef Guy]

Vetteguy copied all of that directly from this article. The Role of Activated Carbon in the Reef Aquarium

You want to avoid using carbon washed with phosphoric acid as it can leach phosphate s back out

How do you know if it was Washed in Phosphoric Acid?

 

[kurtyboh]

I don't remember where I found my source, ill look it up though, I do know that the very cheap stuff that I purchased leeched phosphates. I put 2 tbsp in rodi water waited a week and phos was at 1.8ppm. I don't know the brand as it was in Japanese, the dr foster and Smith stuff did not leech out, but was about 4x's the price.

 

[thatrugbydude]

I don't remember where I found my source, ill look it up though, I do know that the very cheap stuff that I purchased leeched phosphates. I put 2 tbsp in rodi water waited a week and phos was at 1.8ppm. I don't know the brand as it was in Japanese, the dr foster and Smith stuff did not leech out, but was about 4x's the price.

Wow that's extremely high! I use marineland and bulk reefs, never had a problem.

 

[mwbeach]

Following

 

[Rausch]

Definitely run carbon!! been using Chemi-pure elite for a long time now!! debating if i want to give Blue a try or not since i have been so pleased with the results of elite. But i couldn't imagine my tank without it! plus no issues with Zoa's , LPS adn SPS , they all seem to love the crystal clear water the carbon helps produce :brushteeth:

 

[EHerbert]

Have never had any problems with carbon. Wouldn't run a system without it...

 

[Zero Nitrates]

Just switched to ChemiPure Blue. It is working well.

 

[WindeyD]

I have a BRS dual media reactor and run GFO and carbon 24/7. I have seen nothing but excellent results, my zoas are doing well and I don't have any chalices (yet). I use BRS GFO and carbon.