Should I restart?

Lavey29

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Thanks! I have wanted a pair of clowns for so long, but I want to make sure they are getting the best home they can first.
Clowns are iconic but make sure they are medicinally QT before your tank either by LFS or yourself because they are prone to disease. Better to spend a little more and get fish professionally QT before your tank.
 
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Thresher's Reef

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Clowns are iconic but make sure they are medicinally QT before your tank either by LFS or yourself because they are prone to disease. Better to spend a little more and get fish professionally QT before your tank.
For sure! I unfortunately live in middle georgia where there are hardly any LFS but I saw this guy called Dr. Reef that sells quarantined fish so I've been thinking about getting them from him.
 
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Just make sure you have enough rock scape in your tank. That is where your beneficial bacteria colonize.
I have at least 15-18 lbs in the tank and that is also why I added the seachem matrix in the filtration in hopes it will provide more surface area for the bacteria to colonize.
 
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Here is the best pic I could get of the tank due to not really having a filter lens yet. Again, the zoas are not looking good at the moment but I'm hoping I can change that ASAP.
 

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Clowns are iconic but make sure they are medicinally QT before your tank either by LFS or yourself because they are prone to disease. Better to spend a little more and get fish professionally QT before your tank.
Also - clowns are in the same family as damsels and can be a bit aggressive/dickish. I usually recommend to people new to the hobby to not add them first (but I'm not sure even one time I've ever followed that advice myself).
 

Lavey29

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Also - clowns are in the same family as damsels and can be a bit aggressive/dickish. I usually recommend to people new to the hobby to not add them first (but I'm not sure even one time I've ever followed that advice myself).
Good point especially in smaller tanks
 

Lavey29

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Here is the best pic I could get of the tank due to not really having a filter lens yet. Again, the zoas are not looking good at the moment but I'm hoping I can change that ASAP.
Make sure your flow pump is like 3 inches below the surface so you get very noticeable surface ripple for gas exchange.
 

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With phos @ 0.04 and nitrate @ zero, what's all the advice about massive waterchanges going to achieve?
I believe he said nitrate is 60
agree with everyone .. small water changes regularly .. I do believe your ammonia is fine especially if you have zero nitrite and some nitrate ..
you may just want to get water tested @ LFS to confirm ..
my advise .. slow down and let the tank mature( I know it’s hard)
I am in same boat right now lol
 
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I believe he said nitrate is 60
agree with everyone .. small water changes regularly .. I do believe your ammonia is fine especially if you have zero nitrite and some nitrate ..
you may just want to get water tested @ LFS to confirm ..
my advise .. slow down and let the tank mature( I know it’s hard)
I am in same boat right now lol
Must be a typo then;
Well two days later right before me and the Mrs. were going to go out with friends, I decided to test again and still had Ammonia=0.12, Phosphate=0.04, and Nitrate=0. I hadn't done a WC in those two days and made no changes, but what is going on???
 
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Make sure your flow pump is like 3 inches below the surface so you get very noticeable surface ripple for gas exchange.
It was actually around there and I kept getting this little vortex created that I heard was not a good thing and that is why I lowered it more. Is there a way to keep the vortex from occurring?
 

Lavey29

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It's the EcoTech MP10. I went with it so I could have a battery backup since middle georgia tends to have a lot of power outages due to our very friendly thunderstorms and tornados lol
Ok I use MP40s. Are you running lagoon or reefcrest mode? What intensity?
 

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I'm running lagoon mode on the lowest intensity setting at the moment.
Lagoon is fine. I run my pumps at 28% intensity during the day. You just want to be sure you have a constant noticeable ripple back and forth on your waters surface. This promotes gas exchange so your tank gets 02 for the fish you will add
 

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Zoa's are pretty resilient but not indestructible. I would be concerned with why they're not opening, and I don't think it has anything to do with your parameters. Some Zoa's are light lovers, others are dark dwellers, and it's difficult to know which ones are which without playing with placement. The last time I had Zoa's close up on me (the colony was sharing the same rock with another colony that was open and flourishing) it turned out to be light intensity. They started opening up when I turned the lights way down, and when I say way down I mean Max intensity on the light was 40% and I turned on acclimation mode to reduce that value by 70%, so I guess they were around 12% or so total light output? I would look there, personally. It's also worth mapping the PAR in your tank... Rent a PAR meter either online or at an LFS, or if you know there are people around you who will pay you to PAR map their tanks, just buy one if you can turn a profit.
 
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Lagoon is fine. I run my pumps at 28% intensity during the day. You just want to be sure you have a constant noticeable ripple back and forth on your waters surface. This promotes gas exchange so your tank gets 02 for the fish you will add
If I took a video of what my surface movement looked like when I get home, would you mind letting me know if you think I should increase my intensity?
 

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