Red Slime Algae OUTBREAK

madrussian79

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Scratching my head here.....while I did have a spike in phosphates several weeks ago, it's all under control now and red slime algae keeps coming back strong in my 55. I've tried using Chemiclean which has worked for me in the past - but no results. And I did as the label suggested and repeated the application...no dice.

I have a Fluval FX5 wet/dry filter, and 3 days ago I replaced the foam pads, rinsed the LR ruble in tank water, and cleaned it out the filter in general. And it really needed it. I swaped out the carbon and replaced with 2 packages of Chemipure Elite which solved a similar problem in my 14 gal Biocube.

I get RO water for top off from my LFS as well as for mixing - and while I don't have a TDS meter, I suspect maybe they need to change their filters? Their tanks don't seem to be affected like mine however.

I am stumped - even when I siphon the slime out, it's back the next day. It's already decimated my fist size birds' nest and I haven;t seen polyp extension on anything in 2 weeks......I need help before more death occurs!!!!
 

Znut Reefer

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I would try to keep siphoning it out as much as you can. I don't care to add any chemicals just too risky. You'll beat it. I would also be sure to add more flow in the heavy cyno areas.
 

scotty

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an 80$ turbo twist uv sterilizer will keep it from coming back while you get the nutrients under control. there is nothing wrong in using a sterilizer either preventatively or on an emergency basis unlike what is commonly written about them killing beneficial plankton. If those writings were correct, those people wouldn't need to feed their fish or their corals because the aquarium "plankton" would do all the work like the ocean right...the truth is, our tanks don't make enough plankton to feed anything we keep, it's just incidental.

So zap the water after you physically remove it all again, its regrowing from small bits left in the system after your removals. the sterilizer will not kill off the cyano on any substrate or coral but a strong-enough sterilizer will surely zap it out of the water suspension before it lands to recolonize again. just my emergency opinion, i've done it before and so have lots of succesful reef tanks I know of here in my hometown. one guys has been running a sterilizer preventatively for 10 years, another reason I know they are safe

there are care methods that can eliminate your need for one, but in this situation its your fastest fix along with P and N exports

you can also opt for a natural reduction but this will take 3x longer than with a sterilizer, the fastest way to stop coral death is to cheat and zap your water. Its the difference in between days and months of getting a hold of red monerans, man
 
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scotty

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its also common anecdotal reportings online that old bulbs combined with a spike in nutrients, and the hitchhiking-in of these bacteria, combine to make a cyano outbreak. many people have had success with just changing out their light bulbs to regain that fresh, bright spectrum and increase the water changes to as high as you can stand to take out for a quicker natural fix, all these statements are options...
 

beaslbob

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Kill your lights to kill off the cyano.

Then adjust lighting duration to that things thrive (longer) but the cyano does not come back (shorter).

And add some chaeto if you don't have any now.


my .02
 

makingbubbles

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The red slime forms where nutrients are high. If your getting it in your sand bed (like most people) Get a spider conch or fighting conch. 1 will clean a 75 gal in 2 weeks. If its on your rocks there are a few fish that are known to eat it. I had it in my sand bed once, and i learned that the spider conch was the safest easiest way to clean it up.
 
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madrussian79

madrussian79

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an 80$ turbo twist uv sterilizer will keep it from coming back while you get the nutrients under control. there is nothing wrong in using a sterilizer either preventatively or on an emergency basis unlike what is commonly written about them killing beneficial plankton. If those writings were correct, those people wouldn't need to feed their fish or their corals because the aquarium "plankton" would do all the work like the ocean right...the truth is, our tanks don't make enough plankton to feed anything we keep, it's just incidental.

So zap the water after you physically remove it all again, its regrowing from small bits left in the system after your removals. the sterilizer will not kill off the cyano on any substrate or coral but a strong-enough sterilizer will surely zap it out of the water suspension before it lands to recolonize again. just my emergency opinion, i've done it before and so have lots of succesful reef tanks I know of here in my hometown. one guys has been running a sterilizer preventatively for 10 years, another reason I know they are safe

there are care methods that can eliminate your need for one, but in this situation its your fastest fix along with P and N exports

you can also opt for a natural reduction but this will take 3x longer than with a sterilizer, the fastest way to stop coral death is to cheat and zap your water. Its the difference in between days and months of getting a hold of red monerans, man

Thanks...interesting idea. But what did you mean "cheat and zap your water"? My tank is so depressing right now I don't think of it as cheating........
 

scotty

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that was kind of a self deprecating rag on them, the all natural crowd doesn't like to use them because of the possible effects on suspended plankton which can be part of a balanced reef tank. Its a great idea and a cheat I could certainly use again. Ive had my fair share of planted tanks too and after I started using sterilizers the cyano, string algae and everything I once thought of as 'natural' or population shifts in aquariums just never came back, that way is much more appealing to me!

Also in my grandmother's pond, 10,000 gallons of high-light heavy bioloaded koi...with a UV the green water cleared up and it was actually a pleasurable pond for about a decade until we filled it back in as they got older and didn't want the upkeep. I simply love UV sterilizers and if they made a two inch version I'd hook up two to the reefbowl

:)
 

condor

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dose with chemiclean and do a nice water change 2 days later, i maintain a lot of tanks and ive never had a problem with it
 

Troylee

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Cemi clean might rid it for a short time, but you have a underlying problem that will create it to come back...
What salt are you using??? I experinced this one time and found out it was a bad batch of salt after fellow reefers that bought from the same place had the same problem....
 

condor

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Cemi clean might rid it for a short time, but you have a underlying problem that will create it to come back...
What salt are you using??? I experinced this one time and found out it was a bad batch of salt after fellow reefers that bought from the same place had the same problem....
its a nutrient problem, chemiclean kils the bacteria then its up to you to right the params. i also heard of a salt doing this, it is a batch thing
 

reefsUP

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Go with the UV and syphon it out with a turkey baster don't use that stuff keep it organic its been working for me red slime is one of the first lifes in the planets history
 

copester

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I have always been able to get it to go away by just adding more flow and no chemical additives.
 

thomasp

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I have had a red slime problem forma long time.. I finally got it under control when I stopped feeding mysis shrimp and pellets and started feeding the fish arcti pods from reef nutrition.. I also feel oyster eggs, phyto feast and roti feast to the corals and clams.
 

kenjung

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Vacuum out the sand with small hose, rinse out the sand in the bucket. Replace with new sand if possible then careful with feeding, RODI water might be an issue. Long term Buy a media reactor for carbon and GFO that should take care of the nutrient issue. Media reactor + Protein skimmer will take care of it.
 

Edsel Santoni

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Try adjusting lighting and water flow. If not I would suggest UltraLife red slime remover. It is one of the highest quality slime removers and works great. Slow water movement seems to be the biggest culprit in nature, as cyanobacteria colonies are more present in lagoons were water is almost stagnant. Be aware that if you do use UltraLife remover, the addition of air stones is required as dead cyanobacteria contamination will decrease oxygen solubility in the water, making it hard to breathe for the fish.
 

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